Oh No! My DC motor died- I guess?

[lcm1947]

Here I was all ready to make a jig. Had the whole day off from work and wife and was all set. Turned on the DC and it wouldn't start. Checked the electrical outlet ( I know, it couldn't be that simple ) and it's good. Only had the HF DC less then 2 years wouldn't you know. Anybody know what the best approach would be. Buy a new one but it wouldn't be a HF one that's for sure or I wonder if they have replacement motors. Any suggestions welcome. I'm bummed.

[gary]

The switch fails frequently in that unit. You can wire in another switch if it's bad. You can unplug the unit, take it apart and check the switch with a meter. Make sure it's unplugged!

[gerti]

Second the suggestion to check the switch. Mine failed, even though I never use it (have wall switches for that). Mine was a 2-phase switch, one of them was not closing anymore. So as a temporary measure I just connected the two leads to each other.

[lcm1947]

So how does one go about checking the switch? Could I just buy a regular 20amp wall switch and try checking it out like that? I really have no clue about using electric meters or gauges etc. I wonder if they ( HF ) sells a replacement switch?

[final_t]

Third echo on the switch. Mine *just* did that today! What is even more strange is that mine is plugged into a wireless remote so the switch is never turned off. Took it apart (easy) and it looks like the contacts never made good contact - a lot of arc burning. Since mine goes into the remote, I just took the switch out of the loop and wired it straight across.

[brooks]

LCM - it's handy to have one of those little digital multimeters around. Even one of the super cheap ones is good enough to check a switch. Basically, you can clip/attach a test lead to each side of the switch (POWER OFF, always unplug the thing you are testing for resistance) and it should read 0 ohms resistance in the ON position of the switch and infinite resistance in the OFF position. A $5-10 unit from Harbor Freight can do this. The cheaper units often trade down on the number of resistance ranges offered but it doesn't matter because the usual test for switches relies on a go or no-go to let you know if it's working right.

Radio Shack also has some little units on sale sometimes. Nobody's as cheap as Harbor Freight but if you're in a hurry, Radio Shack isn't a big gouge either and there's no delay. Pay the money and take it home. The cheapest unit is good enough.

I checked and this came right up at Harbor Freight's web site - anything like it is fine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92020

[lcm1947]

Thanks guys and yeah $5.00 ain't much but I wouldn't know how to use one if I had one. I read what you said brooks but doesn't mean nothing to me. Sorry.

[Bollox]

Add me to the list of switches that never get turned on or off and still failed. It was the contacts that burned out on mine too. I couldnt easily find a switch rated for enough current so I also just hardwired it and switch it with one of Lorings remote controls. I wouldnt be in a hurry to buy the replacement switch from HF.
Mike

[JR]

Wow, it happened to me today, too! I use a wireless remote, so the switch remains in the On position at all times. I troubelshot the problem and it cleared while testing (wouldn't you know), then failed again later.

The motor windings are good and both sides of the switch seemed ok. I'll have to try it again now that it's failed.

What a bummer.

JR

[lcm1947]

In order to hardwire ( I gather this is the term ) the switch would I just connect the black wire to the other black wire and the white ones together. I realize I wouldn't have a switch but until I got a switch couldn't I just plug and unplug the cord each time I wanted to cut the DC off & on? Would that cause any problems do you think?

[just4funsies]

Hard wiring wouldn't cause a problem EXCEPT that there would be a spark generated as you plug the pigtail into the wall outlet to turn the unit on. Over time, this could burn or pit the contacts in the wall outlet. It's better if you plug into a switched outlet, if available, and then just turn the switch on.

It's also interesting to note that so many of you are having this problem at the same time. It sounds like HF may have used a switch with too low of a rating for this unit.

[lcm1947]

Thanks just4. Going to hardwire it now so I can get something done at least today since I didn't have the DC all day yesterday. Bummer! Yes it does seem strange. I thought maybe everybody was pulling my leg but maybe a weak production on their switches.

[Brian G]

Would there be any concern with wiring through a 20amp single pole switch/receptacle such as the one shown in this link? My thinking is to add a male plug to the end of the cord going to the motor, such that it will plug into the receptacle, and then wire the receptacle with a length of appropriate electrical wire to go to a wall outlet. The switch then would power the motor.

[just4funsies]

Would there be any concern with wiring through a 20amp single pole switch/receptacle such as the one shown in this link? My thinking is to add a male plug to the end of the cord going to the motor, such that it will plug into the receptacle, and then wire the receptacle with a length of appropriate electrical wire to go to a wall outlet. The switch then would power the motor.

Just keep your wire sizes and plug ratings up to snuff, your wire lengths short, and make sure you're plugging into an outlet that can handle the current.

[LCHIEN]

well, if you click through on the .PDF product brochure linked on the page
(direct link: http://assets.twacomm.com/assets/pdf/19139.pdf)
it says the 20A switch is rated for 1 HP.
Usually HP is used to describe motors and not lighting.
So, I think that the switch is intended for 20AMP lighting and resistive loads but only 1 HP motor loads (because of the big turn-on surge and turn-off surge). So it would not be suitable for the 2HP DCs.

That may also be a problem for all wall-type switches as well.