Abrasive cut-off wheel in my CMS???

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  • 91FE
    Established Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 303
    • Philadelphia (actually Souderton), PA.

    Abrasive cut-off wheel in my CMS???

    I've got a dozen or so aluminum balusters that I need to cut down so I can finish my deck railing this weekend. Any reason I can't use one of the 12" abrasive cut-off wheels (made for metal) in my 12" CMS? Should I be worried about the high RPM's of my CMS? Gonna kill myself?

    one of these guys: http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/ac...categoryID=378
    I like Wagoneers too. Hey...they've got wood
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 21052
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    Originally posted by 91FE
    I've got a dozen or so aluminum balusters that I need to cut down so I can finish my deck railing this weekend. Any reason I can't use one of the 12" abrasive cut-off wheels (made for metal) in my 12" CMS? Should I be worried about the high RPM's of my CMS? Gonna kill myself?

    one of these guys: http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/ac...categoryID=378
    I think the abrasive cut off wheels are for steel, not aluminum or brass.
    May even be dangerous, I recall something about the aluminum loasing up the abrasive wheels and making them fly apart (applies to Grinders, I think the technology is the same).
    For aluminum or brass you want what they call non-ferrous metal cutting blades, this is the preferred blade. If not you can cut a modest amount of aluminum with a standard woodcutting blade with little wear (not how many of our brethern have cut into their miter fences with no lasting damage except to their ego...).

    As for cutting on a woodcutting miter saw, I'm mixed opinions about this, it will work OK, but you'll get metal cuttings everywhere. I know some who have a dedicated miter saw just for Aluminum (Kirby). What do other's think.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • Thom2
      Resident BT3Central Research Ass.
      • Jan 2003
      • 1786
      • Stevens, PA, USA.
      • Craftsman 22124

      #3
      Originally posted by LCHIEN
      I think the abrasive cut off wheels are for steel, not aluminum or brass.
      I agree

      Originally posted by LCHIEN
      May even be dangerous, I recall something about the aluminum loasing up the abrasive wheels and making them fly apart (applies to Grinders, I think the technology is the same).
      again, I agree


      Originally posted by LCHIEN
      For aluminum or brass you want what they call non-ferrous metal cutting blades, this is the preferred blade. If not you can cut a modest amount of aluminum with a standard woodcutting blade with little wear (not how many of our brethern have cut into their miter fences with no lasting damage except to their ego...).
      I somewhat agree, the "proper blade" would be a non-ferrous blade, however a carbide bit/blade will cut aluminum with no problems whatsoever

      Originally posted by LCHIEN
      As for cutting on a woodcutting miter saw, I'm mixed opinions about this, it will work OK, but you'll get metal cuttings everywhere. I know some who have a dedicated miter saw just for Aluminum (Kirby). What do other's think.
      again, I "somewhat" agree, while I would like to have seperate tools for cutting aluminum, I can't afford the shop space for 2 of everything. I make the shark feeders for Lee and cut (and routed) a LOT of aluminum in my shop with normal woodworking tools including, but not limited to the BT, RAS, Ridgid BS, Hitachi M12V, Ryobi RE180PL. I've been doing this for over a year and have probably cut up (and routed) at least 2 4x8 sheets of 1/8" aluminum (plus experimental stuff up to 1/4" thick) with said tools and I've experienced no tool failures yet. I'm not 'anal' about my tools, but I do try to blow everything out pretty good from time to time. I'm surely not going to advocate what I do, or the amount that I do, to anyone; but from experience I can tell you that normal woodworking tools with carbide bits/blades will function just fine, YMMV.
      If it ain't broke.. don't fix it!!!... but you can always 'hop it up'
      **one and only purchaser of a BT3C official thong**

      Comment

      • LCHIEN
        Internet Fact Checker
        • Dec 2002
        • 21052
        • Katy, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 vintage 1999

        #4
        Originally posted by Thom2
        I agree

        again, I agree

        I somewhat agree, ...

        again, I "somewhat" agree,...

        ...but from experience I can tell you that normal woodworking tools with carbide bits/blades will function just fine, YMMV.
        There you have it! from an admittedly agreeable person.

        I'll admit to having actually gotten a non-ferrous metal cutting blade then being too lazy to change it and using my 80T Freud in the CMS to cut T-track to length.
        Last edited by LCHIEN; 06-01-2006, 10:31 PM.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment

        • Thom2
          Resident BT3Central Research Ass.
          • Jan 2003
          • 1786
          • Stevens, PA, USA.
          • Craftsman 22124

          #5
          Originally posted by LCHIEN
          There you have it! from an admittedly agreeable person.

          I'll admit to ...
          You've just gotta be 'contrary', you just can't 'agree' tho' can ya???
          If it ain't broke.. don't fix it!!!... but you can always 'hop it up'
          **one and only purchaser of a BT3C official thong**

          Comment

          • JR
            The Full Monte
            • Feb 2004
            • 5633
            • Eugene, OR
            • BT3000

            #6
            Originally posted by 91FE
            I've got a dozen or so aluminum balusters that I need to cut down so I can finish my deck railing this weekend. Any reason I can't use one of the 12" abrasive cut-off wheels (made for metal) in my 12" CMS? Should I be worried about the high RPM's of my CMS? Gonna kill myself?
            Cut-off wheels can cause quite a bit of heat build up. You might not have much of a problem with aluminum, but steel will get hot. Then your plastic throat plate could melt.

            DAMHIKT!!!

            JR
            JR

            Comment

            • sacherjj
              Not Your Average Joe
              • Dec 2005
              • 813
              • Indianapolis, IN, USA.
              • BT3100-1

              #7
              I purchased a cheap carbide tipped 60 tooth blade from my BT and used the type of wax recommended for cutting aluminum. This worked well for cutting off chunks to mill from a 1.5" x 6" x 8" piece of 6061 Aluminum. You can cut Aluminum with the abrasive wheel, but you will prefer the carbide blade.
              Joe Sacher

              Comment

              • meika123
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2002
                • 887
                • Advance, NC, USA.
                • BT3000

                #8
                I had some trailer frames I needed to cut up, and I had been renting an Oxy/Acetylene torch to cut them. However, recently, the rental people advised me of a better way. I rented a Husqvarna cut-off saw set to do the job. I must admit, the 14" abrasive cut-off discs did a number on 8-10" high I-beams. "MUCH" faster than the torch.

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                What it would do on aluminum and other materials I don't know. Mine are listed for concrete and masonry.
                If push came to shove, you could use a circular saw. Just put the blade on backward.

                Dave in NC
                Last edited by meika123; 06-02-2006, 02:16 PM.
                Stress is when you wake up screaming and then you realize you haven't fallen asleep yet.

                Comment

                • Stick
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2003
                  • 872
                  • Grand Rapids, MB, Canada.
                  • BT3100

                  #9
                  Amen to that! I have both a metal cutting band saw and a 14" chop saw. I make about equal use of both of them, as the chop saw is portable. In any case, I use the torch a lot less these days.

                  Comment

                  • 91FE
                    Established Member
                    • Dec 2005
                    • 303
                    • Philadelphia (actually Souderton), PA.

                    #10
                    I'm a moron (and happy to admit it)

                    Ok... so I got it in my head that I needed to cut these alum balusters with my CMS. I made up my mind and that was that. I followed the earlier advice and stopped by Lowes on my way home for an 80T carbide blade. I'm standing there looking at the $60 price tag and decided that 12 cuts wasn't worth $60... I'll do it with my hacksaw... maybe my sawsall. Then it hit me...

                    I'M TRYING TO CUT ALUMINIUM TUBING!!! Um... maybe my pipe cutter will do it

                    Thanks for the advice guys, but I'm feeling like a knucklehead.
                    I like Wagoneers too. Hey...they've got wood

                    Comment

                    • Stick
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2003
                      • 872
                      • Grand Rapids, MB, Canada.
                      • BT3100

                      #11
                      I had it in MY head that they would be square! Sure, tubing cutter will work fine. Incidentally, when cutting or threading aluminum, WD40 works great as a cutting oil. About the only thing it's any good for anymore since the formula changed.

                      Comment

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