1st Routing Experience

[LarryG]

If the bit you are using has a bearing and is a roundover type bit, why are you using a fence? If you were not using a router table, would you use a fence? I have never used a fence with any bit that has a bearing on it.

Valid point; the bearing is redundant when there's a fence in play. Many people (myself included) isolate the bearing by setting the fence just a hair forward of the bearing, say a couple thousandths. I lay my 6" rule across the fence opening and nudge the fence until the bearing just stops moving when I slide the rule back and forth.

On a somwhat related note, when doing roundovers and the like it's better to use a router table and fence, or an edge guide on a handheld router (the edge guide being a fence) rather than the bearing, whenever possible. Since the bearing is small and contacts the workpiece at only one point, it will amplify any imperfections in the workpiece's edge. Even a tiny nick on the square edge of a workpiece will turn into a glaringly obvious eyesore. By comparison, the longer support of a fence or edge guide will "average out" any imperfections and generally keep them from showing up in the profiled edge.

[PALefty]

To take this one step further, if the dado is wider than the bit and you need to make multiple passes. The first cut should always be made so that you have to move the fence AWAY from the bit for the subsequent passes.

I've nearly made this mistake on several occassions.

very good info. I have had my humble pie for the day. I will do my best to not eat another one....

[jwaterdawg]

Most importantly glad to hear that no one was hurt in the process.

[PALefty]

Most importantly glad to hear that no one was hurt in the process.

I certainly agree with you there

[LarryG]

I forgot to express my own relief you didn't get hurt, so yes, a VERY big +1 on that.

Someone else mentioned "Woodworking With The Router" by Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack, and I'd like to second that, too. I love routers, they're my favorite tool in the workshop; but even when I set that personal bias aside, this book remains the single best title on my woodworking library shelf. Anything and everything you need to know about routers, bits, and their use is in there. Handheld, table-mounted, dovetail jigs ... they cover it all. As I have said many times on this forum, this book is the best money you'll ever spend on an "accessory" for a router.

[mschrank]

My conclusion was... that the outfeed side of the fence was back further than the infeed causing the wood to become loose as it reached a certain point. Is this an accurate analysis? How can I avoid this in the future? While I know this may not be perfect.. I was using the ruler marks on my router plate to try and align the fence correctly. Do I need an additional tool to perform this function more accurately?

Are you indicating that your fence is actually two seperate pieces? If so, that shouldn't be. Some folks have split fences and can adjust the outfeed side slightly forward of the infeed side when jointing an edge, but usually a shim is used between the outer (face) fence and an inner fence that is connected to (and perfectly inline with) the infeed side.

Or maybe I completely misinterpreted your description

At any rate, glad there was no major damage.

Also, regarding the Matlack book...it is indeed the best router book I've seen. There is a new revision coming out at the beginning of July, so you might want to wait for that.

[PALefty]

I forgot to express my own relief you didn't get hurt, so yes, a VERY big +1 on that.

Someone else mentioned "Woodworking With The Router" by Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack, and I'd like to second that, too. I love routers, they're my favorite tool in the workshop; but even when I set that personal bias aside, this book remains the single best title on my woodworking library shelf. Anything and everything you need to know about routers, bits, and their use is in there. Handheld, table-mounted, dovetail jigs ... they cover it all. As I have said many times on this forum, this book is the best money you'll ever spend on an "accessory" for a router.

Thanks. Yes, I agree it is a good idea. I have been meaning to get one for my tablesaw and perhaps bandsaw as well.

[PALefty]

Are you indicating that your fence is actually two seperate pieces? If so, that shouldn't be. Some folks have split fences and can adjust the outfeed side slightly forward of the infeed side when jointing an edge, but usually a shim is used between the outer (face) fence and an inner fence that is connected to (and perfectly inline with) the infeed side.

Or maybe I completely misinterpreted your description

At any rate, glad there was no major damage.

Also, regarding the Matlack book...it is indeed the best router book I've seen. There is a new revision coming out at the beginning of July, so you might want to wait for that.

My table is of the Bosch/Craftsman variety. The fence is a two piece split fence (actually 3), that slides forward/backward on two bolts. There is a certain amount of play in this.. which would allow the fence to be skewed out of aligment one way or the other.

[LCHIEN]

If the bit you are using has a bearing and is a roundover type bit, why are you using a fence? If you were not using a router table, would you use a fence? I have never used a fence with any bit that has a bearing on it.

You can do it if you want, won't hurt anything and eliminates the need for a guide pin.

Also in this case he was routing a tall, thin piece, so the fence helps hold it perfectly vertical. It wasn't a roundover( that was my example) but a I think he said a beading bit which makes a difference in how you want the piece vertical or horizontal.

[drumpriest]

I regularly use my fence for bits with bearings on them. The reasons are as follows.

1. Less stress on the router bit, I'm pushing into the fence, not the bit.
2. Dust collection, the fence DC is 50x more effective than the belly DC.

[Habe]

I believe the arrows on the table are for the direction of the bit rotation. Kind of a reminder of which way the bit is turning, not for feed direction. The feed direction is the different for table mounted verses hand held.

[drumpriest]

Habe, it depends up on the table, some actually label feed direction, which is fine. The issue that lefty had was he was routing on the far side of the bit, which effectively is the same as feeding the wrong direction, as well as has the possibility of getting pinched.

[SteveJ]

you might also consider renting the "router joinery" dvd by Gary Ragowski.

I rented it from Technicalvideorental.com for 9.95.

I have several books on the how to use my router and they are all good, but I think there is nothig like being able to watch an example on video.

Norm's two part series on beginning Router use is also an excellent guide.

Steve

[JimD]

I agree with Kieth. Using the fence with a bit with a guide bearing is my normal way of doing it for the reasons Kieth mentions plus the fact that the bearing will sometimes leave a mark in softwood. The closet thing to a problem with using the fence happens if your wood is not straight. Then you can get less than a full cut on part of the board. Crooked wood is liable to cause you other problems, however, so finding it out a this stage is not all bad. The solution is straighten it out (for me cutting a little off using the bT3100 usually). You could also use a jointer.

Jim