Misc Air Tool/Comressor Questions

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  • PALefty
    Established Member
    • Feb 2006
    • 230

    #1

    Misc Air Tool/Comressor Questions

    I have a few general questions about compressor accessories:

    - There seems to be many types of lines for compressor/air tools. From the thin coiled variety, to the medium orange or blue variety (kinda looks like pex), to the black rubber to the thick red. What are the pro's/con's of the different ones out there? Does each application have it's own type of hose.. or is that just marketing?

    - Would there be any advantage to a 1/2 line over a 3/8?

    - Which is better... brass fittings or stainless? Why?

    - Does anybody add a filter to their line... or only in certain applications?

    - Does anybody add an oiler to their line... or only in certain applications?

    - Are quick connect couplings supposed to be air tight? If so, is there some way to tell a good brand over a cheepo other than price?


    thanks in advance!

    Jeff
  • LCHIEN
    Super Moderator
    • Dec 2002
    • 21971
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    Originally posted by PALefty
    I have a few general questions about compressor accessories:

    - There seems to be many types of lines for compressor/air tools. From the thin coiled variety, to the medium orange or blue variety (kinda looks like pex), to the black rubber to the thick red. What are the pro's/con's of the different ones out there? Does each application have it's own type of hose.. or is that just marketing?

    - Would there be any advantage to a 1/2 line over a 3/8?

    - Which is better... brass fittings or stainless? Why?

    - Does anybody add a filter to their line... or only in certain applications?

    - Does anybody add an oiler to their line... or only in certain applications?

    - Are quick connect couplings supposed to be air tight? If so, is there some way to tell a good brand over a cheepo other than price?


    thanks in advance!

    Jeff
    ID affects air flow, like wire gages. For higher flow tools, you need bigger ID.
    the coiled ones, I think have smaller ID so less air flow, also you have to wrestle with them because they retract, could be useful or could be a pain.

    The straight hoses are mostly either PVC or Rubber/neoprene. The PVC ones cost half as much but the ugly secret is that they start getting stiff around 55°F and real hard to handle. I won't buy anymore PVC hoses!
    The rubber ones are much more tractable. Buy them from HF, they have goodyear rubber air hoses at attractive prices.

    I understand the QD air fittings are not supposed to leak, the HF ones I have, some do if you twist 'em just right. I guess its a quality machining problem.

    You'll find few stainless steel air fittings (would be very expensive), I assume you're probably askeing about steel vs brass.

    Oilers can be bad, they will get in your air lines and make them worthless for painting. Oilers make sense in industrial use where the tools are used all day and get no maintenance from could-care-less workers. In a home shop, you might be better off just putting a few drops of oil into each tool when you use it. Or have separate air lines and oilers for tools the ned it and another set for those that don't.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • Wood_workur
      Veteran Member
      • Aug 2005
      • 1914
      • Ohio
      • Ryobi bt3100-1

      #3
      Loring's got the nail on the head. You need no oiler, and a filter for spray guns, which few people run on an air compressors in a home application.
      Alex

      Comment

      • PALefty
        Established Member
        • Feb 2006
        • 230

        #4
        Originally posted by LCHIEN
        You'll find few stainless steel air fittings (would be very expensive), I assume you're probably askeing about steel vs brass.
        Yes, I guess it is just the bearings that are stainless (ie quick-connect). I believe the steel is more expensive, but I don't know if that means they are better...

        Comment

        • Tom Slick
          Veteran Member
          • May 2005
          • 2913
          • Paso Robles, Calif, USA.
          • sears BT3 clone

          #5
          The PEX looking hoses are polyurethane. Get the reinforced kind, the ones that look like they have string in them, they are far superior to the unreinforced. Unreinforced look like plastic and are terrible. IMO poly hoses are much better then standard rubber hoses and are certainly much better then PVC hoses. 3/8" hose would be an ideal size. 1/2 is a bulky and less flexible hose.
          Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison

          Comment

          • Andrew Benedetto
            Veteran Member
            • Mar 2003
            • 1071
            • SoCal, USA
            • Unisaw w. 52"Bies,22124CM & BT3K

            #6
            Originally posted by Tom Slick
            , they are far superior to the unreinforced. Unreinforced look like plastic and are terrible. IMO poly hoses are much better then standard rubber hoses and are certainly much better then PVC hoses. 3/8" hose would be an ideal size. 1/2 is a bulky and less flexible hose.
            I have all types. Rubber is best for cold weather. I use 1/2" Goodyear for Truck/car repair,and if I have a long run with a Framer. 1/2" is bulky but you use a 3/8" rubber leader at the end and I have swivels on all the hose ends too so I get performance without the bulk. I only use an oiler with mechanic air tools and the Framer sometimes if I am doing a lot of use. If you have long on time use,esp. on non oilbath air tools ,the oiler is best if you want your air tools to last. The oiler lubes the entire tool during operation.
            Woodworking, that is not an issue,infact you do not want an oiler on smaller nailers/staplers,they will jam and cause finish problems on wood.
            Oiler is on a separate line,after the Regulator/filter. I do not mix hoses if you spray paint,tee has a QD for both.(oil/oilless). 3/8' QD fittings are best and come in 1/4" NPT ends too. The restriction on 1/4" types can be excessive depending on the fitting. I use 3/8" on anything that has a hi CFM need. Ther is a big difference when using a 1/2" impact gun with a 3/8" QD, 5/16" opening in the plug, and 1/2" hose. Hook a gauge to the tool and you willl see a large pressure drop with the smaller fittings when you operate it. I have seen some plugs that have a 3/16" opening or less,defeats the purpose of a larger hose. Cheap QD have hi restriction,put a male in the female QD and blow in the fittings,you will see what I mean. Amflo has HVLP 1/4" QD's that are not large like the 3/8",and still have good flow. HF sells them. The HF chromeplated Universal female QD is good, but not the sets. I drill out the plugs(brass) to 15/64",for better air flow on the 1/4" sets and toss the female QD if HF has a sale. The female only HF QD is about $4, or buy the Amflo ,even their regular ones are good.
            I have a green Amflo poly UNreinforced hose that was $14/25' that is excellent,reinforced brass swivel ends,3/8". Very easy to store,light and cheap.
            I do not know what kind you have used but this hose is great for brad nailers and indoor use b/c it is east to keep clean and durable. HF sell them in the stores,Lowes used to. The type you refer to is 3x that much and I do not see what the advantage is if you are careful . The other types are for careless workers on construction sites where hose/tool damage is common place.
            The colored non rubber typically seen are ok(lo cost) but very stiff in the cold and will take on grease permanently, rubber can be scrubbed clean with a greenpad and cleanser.
            1/4" hose I only use with a blow gun,air to tires,etc`.
            Andrew

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