I looked at a tap chart and it says for 5/16-18 tap to use "F" for drill bit size. The chart legend says that "F" falls between 1/4" and 17/64" bit size. Is it better to drill a smaller (1/4") or a bigger (17/64") hole?
Drill bit size for 5/16-18 tap
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what is the tapped hole for? if you don't need maximum strength it will be easier to run the tap though the 17/64" hole. use the 1/4" hole if you need max strength but it will be harder to run the tap through.Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas EdisonComment
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Originally posted by Tom Slickwhat is the tapped hole for? if you don't need maximum strength it will be easier to run the tap though the 17/64" hole. use the 1/4" hole if you need max strength but it will be harder to run the tap through.Comment
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I was going to make a similar comment as Tom.
F is 2.570 which is .070 over 1/4 and .086 under 17/64 (.2656)
.070 or .086 can be a lot in thread strength. It may not seem to be much distance but it a large fraction of the thread depth.
If the load is not critical then I would use the 17/64 and it will be a lot easier to tap.
If the load is really critical I'd get the recommended tap size; you should be able to buy that "F" bit in a well equipped auto supply store or hardware store.
A 1/4" tap hole might be really hard to tap depending upon the depth and material.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
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http://www.blackwallnutjigs.com/tapchart.asp
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Originally posted by GregWeither one would would work...personally if I wasn't going to use the right size bit, I would use the 17/64 (.008 oversize) because you would have less of a chance of breaking your tap
TedLast edited by ted van halen; 04-08-2006, 06:30 AM.Comment
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...or you could buy a set of letter drills for about $20 and be set for life!
sam :-)sam :-)
(I\'d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!)Comment
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Originally posted by ted van halenWhat he said. The 17/64 drill is .008 per side. I do tool & die design for a living. The machine shop @ my plant routinely uses the next size up fractional bit for tap strength. It's not such an issue once you get above 3/8 but the necks on smaller taps are pretty thin. Especially if tapping by hand & the twisting force is not consistent & smooth as it would be on a mill or a lathe. Also, I'd use some locktight on the bolts w/ lock washers instead of really crankin' down when you torque 'em. If they're seeing shear stress & you have room you might consider drilling for a dowel pin. I'm not real hip to the exact application so I don't know if that's possible. Heck, if the threads fail it's not a big deal. They make heli-coils all day long.
Ted
In your application (blade tensioner bracket holder), the bolts will the in shear mode and the threads not carrying the load directly.Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-09-2006, 09:41 AM.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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I speak from experience about the tap neck breaking when hand tapping BTW. I was just chasing a thread to clean it up when the tap siezed instantly & w/o warning. Try as I might to avoid breaking it, it broke anyway. What a pain. If you do indeed use the locktite, DO NOT use red. I don't know the actual # for it but once it's set, it's set. Heat & patience are the only tools I've seen break it loose. The blue stuff is more than adequate in all but the most extreme cases.Comment
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