Router table pivot pin question

[LCHIEN]

We all (should) know that when using a router with a bearing and without a fence we should use a pivot pin to support work (sideways) when easing the work into the bit lest the bit take too big a bite and fling the workpiece and user.

My question #1 - how far from the bit is the proper distance to the pivot?

Seems like a couple of inches is probably right but that would put it in the removable ring, so it has to go outside that area which is over 3" away.
How do you resolve this? Where is you's located?

#2 At what clock position (relative to the bit center) is the best? 9 o'clock? 3? 8?

#3 should I put two or more locations? Right and left?

I have a woodpecker plate and a brass pivot pin but no hole as of this time.

[Andrew Benedetto]

Loring, I measured my Delta portable router/shaper and they have it at 3" from center @ 5 o'clock if viewed from the front . I use that all the time and it seems to be good.

[gmack5]

Loring, since the "Pivot Pin" is in reality a fulcrum, you can set it farther from the Bit, it just may take a little bit more control force to keep the Work piece from jumping.

Four inches should work just fine. YMMV

The other alternative would be to use a Pivot Point
that is actually the vertically pointed end of a piece of wood (Maple would be good), clamped to the edge of your Router Table. Then it could be clamped so as to position it anywhere on the Router Table that you desire.

[LCHIEN]

Loring, since the "Pivot Pin" is in reality a fulcrum, you can set it farther from the Bit, it just may take a little bit more control force to keep the Work piece from jumping.

Four inches should work just fine. YMMV

...

I was worried that if it was too far you could have the situation that it won't for for a short workpiece.

[Ken Massingale]

Hey Loring,
On my Woodpecker plate the threaded hole for the pivot pin is 2 3/4" from the center of the bit, at 3 o'clock. This puts it 3/4" from the right edge of the removeable ring.
Ken

[Jim Boyd]

My router plate has holes in the removeable rings too.

[just4funsies]

Jim, are those holes in the rings threaded? I think they may be just for the spanner that you loosen the rings with. (At least that's the way it is on my 'Pecker Plate.)

[Jim Boyd]

Jim, are those holes in the rings threaded? I think they may be just for the spanner that you loosen the rings with. (At least that's the way it is on my 'Pecker Plate.)

Nope, the ring is a snap in plastic piece. The plate is a MCLS "all in one".

[kwgeorge]

On my lift the threaded holes appear about 3” away from the center point. Normally when using the pin I will start the cut about 1” from the end and climb cut the 1” back and then proceed as normal. If you are concerned about that distance and working with smaller pieces than logically you should be using a “small piece jig” to hold the work.

Engineers need to keep all there digits too!

[monte]

I checked mine this morning and the pin is 3" from the center of the bit opening and at the 4 o'clock position.