When To Sharpen

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  • onedash
    Veteran Member
    • Mar 2005
    • 1013
    • Maryland
    • Craftsman 22124

    #1

    When To Sharpen

    Is there a rule of thumb for when to get your blade sharpened?
    Since the performance decreases gradually over time its hard to notice that its not at its peak anymore. What im wondering is how long do you wait? Is there any fancy trick or test to know its time to get it sharpened?
    I have several blades and I guess the reason the new one always seems better is because the other one wasn't new any more. So im sure a new clean blade is better than the best blade that is old and dull? Not that mine are old an wore out but I know they are not as sharp as they were new.
    YOU DONT HAVE TO TRAIN TO BE MISERABLE. YOU HAVE TO TRAIN TO ENDURE MISERY.
  • Knottscott
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2004
    • 3815
    • Rochester, NY.
    • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

    #2
    If you're fussy about your blades and you're in doubt...sharpen it. At the very least give a good cleaning and see if you notice a difference....if not, it would probably benefit from a sharpening.

    I'm just a weekend hack and tend to go 1-2 years between sharpenings depending on what I've been cutting, and how everything seems to be working. I'm pretty religious about cleaning them regularly though.
    Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

    Comment

    • Boomer_01
      Forum Newbie
      • Feb 2006
      • 79

      #3
      What to look for

      Here are some things to look for with a dull blade:

      Burn marks on the cut edge of the stock.
      Ragged exit cuts on the down face or end exits.
      A marked increase in blade noise (Whine).
      Excessive force needed to feed stock through the blade.
      A burnt wood aroma permeating your shop every time you use the saw.
      The motor bogging down on normal rip or cross cuts.


      I usually watch my blade performance pretty close. My sharpening service only charges $7 to resharpen my 10" blades so I have them done after every large project.


      Boomer

      Comment

      • maxparot
        Veteran Member
        • Jan 2004
        • 1421
        • Mesa, Arizona, USA.
        • BT3100 w/ wide table kit

        #4
        First thing to try before sharpening a blade is simply to clean it! If this restores it to satisfactory condition then go no further.
        Opinions are like gas;
        I don't mind hearing it, but keep it to yourself if it stinks.

        Comment

        • LCHIEN
          Super Moderator
          • Dec 2002
          • 21993
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #5
          Originally posted by Boomer_01
          Here are some things to look for with a dull blade:

          Burn marks on the cut edge of the stock.
          Ragged exit cuts on the down face or end exits.
          A marked increase in blade noise (Whine).
          Excessive force needed to feed stock through the blade.
          A burnt wood aroma permeating your shop every time you use the saw.
          The motor bogging down on normal rip or cross cuts.


          I usually watch my blade performance pretty close. My sharpening service only charges $7 to resharpen my 10" blades so I have them done after every large project.


          Boomer
          Around here they charge $.30 per tooth for carbide blades.
          Who does your sharpening?
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

          Comment

          • onedash
            Veteran Member
            • Mar 2005
            • 1013
            • Maryland
            • Craftsman 22124

            #6
            Originally posted by Boomer_01
            Here are some things to look for with a dull blade:

            Burn marks on the cut edge of the stock.
            Ragged exit cuts on the down face or end exits.
            A marked increase in blade noise (Whine).
            Excessive force needed to feed stock through the blade.
            A burnt wood aroma permeating your shop every time you use the saw.
            The motor bogging down on normal rip or cross cuts.


            I usually watch my blade performance pretty close. My sharpening service only charges $7 to resharpen my 10" blades so I have them done after every large project.


            Boomer
            Guess im due for some sharpening then....I thought maybe oak was harder to cut than lyptus but I think it might just be time to sharpen the blades.
            YOU DONT HAVE TO TRAIN TO BE MISERABLE. YOU HAVE TO TRAIN TO ENDURE MISERY.

            Comment

            • JimD
              Veteran Member
              • Feb 2003
              • 4187
              • Lexington, SC.

              #7
              My method of deciding is to clean with CMT cleaner. It works pretty well but by the time I clean there is enough gunk I have to wipe each tooth. While I am wiping the teeth I look at each tooth. When there are pieces missing or the edges of the teeth are not sharp, it is time to sharpen the blade. If the edges still are sharp and there are no pieces missing, I keep using the blade.

              There is some increase in feed required while the edges of the blade still look pretty good but with a clean blade and a well adjusted saw, there should be either no burning with a wood like oak that is not prone to burning or only a little light burning with something like maple that burns easily (and then only if your feed rate is not real smooth). I agree with Loring's comments, I just think it's easier and less subjective to look at the teeth.

              Jim

              Comment

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