Brad nailers and staplers

**lcm1947** · 03-04-2006, 09:22 AM

[quote=AlanWS]I'm new to air tools, having just bought a compressor, and have heard there's an advantage to a brad nailer over the combination nailer/stapler in that the dent the driver makes while putting in a brad is smaller with the nailer. But what about the comparison between the combination tool and just the stapler? Is there any advantage to the single function stapler?

I'm also interested in hearing an answer. I really thought a brad gun would be good for cabinet backs etc too but thought the over $100.00 was a bit more then what I wanted to spend for a tool that I wouldn't be using all that much but at this price I couldn't miss. Well if they're any good that is.

**LCHIEN** · 03-04-2006, 11:58 AM

If you want a stapler and the combos is the same price or cheaper then I can't think of a reason not to get the combo for a little extra versatility.
Most people get nailers first. Not having used a combo I'm not sure if they are more complex, less reliable or more difficult to load or something like that.

I find the HF nailer and staplers a good bargain compared to name brand nailers. The finish is not as nice and maybe you have to adjust air pressure to limit depth instead of a control but functionality for the buck is super high.

As for using any brad nailer compared to manually nailing, it just makes a hugh difference. For cabinet backs the difference is speed, you can knock off the whole back in a few short minutes. But I find the big difference is when nailing up assemblies, especially complex ones. While a cabinet back does not move, a glue up assembly wants to slide on the glue. When you hammer a brad or a nail it takes several blows to penetrate the top piece and by that time the bottom piece has moved from the blows and there goes the alignment. You need three hands to hold the hammer, the brad and the assembly. In contrast with the air nailer you need one hand to hold the gun and one to hold the assy. It fires in one smooth motion while you are holding still so nothing moves, there's no dents in the wood from the hammer except one small indent. Brads are smaller than nails, easier to hide and won't split your project.

The only trouble is you can screw up very fast. Brads can detour and exit at weird places sometimes doing 90 or 180° turns (it tends to want to follow grain). you have to be careful where you place hands and fingers. Be safe! Think each shot through as to where the brad might end up. Don't hold the wood near the brad lest it do one of those 180 turns and come back throuh your hand.

**Les Sayers** · 03-04-2006, 02:01 PM

Brad nailers and staplers

Good advice from LCHIEN.

My view is "one tool for one job".

Fine work needs headless pins, staples are for tacking cabinet backs and other non visible work.

If you can, buy separate tools - they are not expensive and each tool will be better at its job.

**Brian G** · 03-04-2006, 07:21 PM

My air tool arsenal includes the HF 46309 18 ga. brad nailer, the 31317 16 ga. nailer, the 40073 1/4" crown stapler, and (added today for $11.99) the 46365 1/2" crown stapler.

The 16 ga. nailer is currently at $39.99, which is the lowest price I've seen (I paid $59 less 20% early last summer).

The 46309 is a workhorse. I used the 1/4" crown stapler extensively over the summer, and it performed great. Setting depth was easy, though a bit touchy. The 16 ga. is a bit heavy, but worked great as well. I have not used the 1/2" stapler.

Next up is one of the pinners.

**AlanWS** · 03-04-2006, 11:10 PM

Thanks all for the comments. I did buy a brad nailer (46309) when I got the compressor (42321), and today was heading back to HF for the regulator (42305), wondering whether to pick up a stapler while I was at it. I decided to hold off on the stapler, rather than buying now simply because it's so cheap. I'm quite happy with the nailer now that I have the neccesary regulator. If it proves as useful as it seems, I may follow knuckles's lead in adding several more tools.

**lcm1947** · 03-05-2006, 02:38 AM

Originally posted by AlanWS

Thanks all for the comments. I did buy a brad nailer (46309) when I got the compressor (42321), and today was heading back to HF for the regulator (42305), wondering whether to pick up a stapler while I was at it. I decided to hold off on the stapler, rather than buying now simply because it's so cheap. I'm quite happy with the nailer now that I have the neccesary regulator. If it proves as useful as it seems, I may follow knuckles's lead in adding several more tools.

Now what is this "neccesary regulator"? if I may ask and would you use it on all nailers or staplers?

**Pappy** · 03-05-2006, 06:28 AM

Originally posted by lcm1947

Now what is this "neccesary regulator"? if I may ask and would you use it on all nailers or staplers?

Mac, I think he is talking about a moisture filter/oiler. They are called regulators because they have a valve to control the pressure to the hose. Moisture filtering is the 'neccesary' part, to protect the tools. An oiler will cause problems if you use a spray gun for finishing since the oil is in the hose.

For regulating air to the tool, this is a better solution.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90590

My paint guns have one attached all the time and I have a couple of spares that get moved around as needed. There is a cheaper version (the knob is silver) that goes on sale all the time, but I had lousy luck with it.

**AlanWS** · 03-05-2006, 07:33 AM

As I said, I'm a beginner. Without something to regulate the pressure, my compressor gives pressure higher than the maximum listed for the brad nailer, for which the pressure needs to be set fairly accurately, since that determines how deeply the brad goes, unless the nailer has a different way to set that. Mine does not. The alternative of adjusting the compressor settings of on and off pressures is less desirable, since it is hard on the compressor, and would not hold the pressure as steady anyway. Filtration is useful, but I am not using the oiler part, since I'd like to be able to use these air lines for other purposes. I called it neccesary to save someone else the the need to make a return trip. It is useful to know that the cheaper 90590 is good enough.

If anyone else is considering all the choices, some I made on the basis of what was in my local HF, since it never has all the options of the website. I chose the compressor listed above because it has the 1720 RPM motor, and was $90. I hoped it would be quieter than some with faster motors, and it does seem to be.

**LCHIEN** · 03-05-2006, 08:59 AM

Originally posted by Pappy

Mac, I think he is talking about a moisture filter/oiler. They are called regulators because they have a valve to control the pressure to the hose. Moisture filtering is the 'neccesary' part, to protect the tools. An oiler will cause problems if you use a spray gun for finishing since the oil is in the hose.

For regulating air to the tool, this is a better solution.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90590

My paint guns have one attached all the time and I have a couple of spares that get moved around as needed. There is a cheaper version (the knob is silver) that goes on sale all the time, but I had lousy luck with it.

HF has one thing they call a regulator, it has a small silver knob and it goes on sale all the time for $5.95. I want to warn everyone that that is not a pressure regulator, it is a flow regulator. It simply restricts the flow of air to reduce the pressure much as you adjust a spigot to reduce the flow of water. This only works for Items which consume a steady flow of air.
HF flow regulator (despite what it says):
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=36797

An Air gun does not consume a steady flow of air. It only consumes air to fill its air reservoir. In this case a "flow" regulator will allow the pressure in the gun to build to the maximum of the compressor output.

To properly control air for an air gun, you need a true pressure regulator which has an active mechanical diaphragm-controlled feedback that restricts the air based on the feedback pressure. Like the one Pappy recommends.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90590

As for regulators being necessary:
Yes they are necessary, especially if using the cheaper HF type guns which do not have a built-in method to limit setting nail depth. But even expensive name brand nailers need regulation because they have limits on pressure which if exceeded can lead to seal failure or even rupture. Because most are rated for 70-100 psi or so and most compressors are capable of 135 to 150 psi.

But before you rush out and buy a regulator, chances are 90% your compressor already has one. Only the cheapest compressors fail to supply an output regulator these days. If your compressor has two dial gages, it has a built-in regulator. One dial usually reads the tank pressure and the other reads the regulated output pressure, which will be much steadier than the tank pressure which will go up and down. Typically (the actual values depend on the settings and the compressor) the output pressure will stay at 90 psi +/-1 PSI and the tank pressure will vary between 130 to 150 psi. There will usually be a tapered knob of at least 1.5" diameter to control the pressure.

I would recommend no one should buy an unregulated compressor for woodworking.

**lcm1947** · 03-05-2006, 09:40 AM

Thanks guys and Loring that was a very informative post. Loring you must be a teacher the way you always explain everything in such a understandable, detailed and clear manner. I for one really appreciate it and always look forward to your replies. Not to take away from any reply I get but you've got to admit Loring is good.

**AlanWS** · 03-05-2006, 10:13 AM

Thanks LCHIEN. That's probably very good advice about making sure your compressor has a two stage regulator -- I was surprised to find mine didn't. Looking over the HF compressors on the web, there are a lot of both types. So look for two gauges. The other useful hint if you are looking for an actual regulator is the size of the knob: the little knobs are most likely simply valves not regulators.

I am happy with my setup now though.

**LCHIEN** · 03-05-2006, 11:56 AM

Thanks. If you guys find my posts informative, you can click the "Scales" icon in the bar above the specific post (not the thread) on the right that says "Add to so-and-so's reputation" and approve of the post.

**MoldnMaker** · 03-18-2006, 10:18 AM

This may be a stupid question, but it is somewhat related to this thread.

Does the HF 18 gauge nailer require specific Brads? Do I need to get the HF brads? I'm asking, because I've used a nailer at work, but never bought one and never had to worry about brad size since they were provided. I just ordered the HF 18 gauge nailer for the $14.99 sale price, but didn't order the brads, because the minimum brad quanity was 5000 and I thought it was a bit much for personal use. Will the 18 gauge Bostitch brads at Lowes work?

Thanks

**sweensdv** · 03-18-2006, 11:40 AM

The Bostitch brads will work in your HF nailer. Actually, they probably will work better than the HF brads.

Brad nailers and staplers

Brad nailers and staplers

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