Suping up a Harbor Freight Bandsaw

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  • betacrash
    Forum Newbie
    • Aug 2005
    • 86
    • .

    Suping up a Harbor Freight Bandsaw

    I have the opportunity to get a 3hp motor (around 3400rpm). Would it be ok to put this on my bandsaw? Or should I go with a 2hp?
  • maxparot
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2004
    • 1421
    • Mesa, Arizona, USA.
    • BT3100 w/ wide table kit

    #2
    Originally posted by betacrash
    I have the opportunity to get a 3hp motor (around 3400rpm). Would it be ok to put this on my bandsaw? Or should I go with a 2hp?
    I'd go with the 2hp a 3hp may have a tendence to snap finer blades on a 14" saw plus it would put a great deal of stress on the blade guide assemblies.
    Opinions are like gas;
    I don't mind hearing it, but keep it to yourself if it stinks.

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    • Hoover
      Veteran Member
      • Mar 2003
      • 1273
      • USA.

      #3
      Originally posted by betacrash
      I have the opportunity to get a 3hp motor (around 3400rpm). Would it be ok to put this on my bandsaw? Or should I go with a 2hp?
      If I recall correctly, the motor rpm for the stock is 1750 rpm, so you might have to change the pulley on the motor to compensate for the 2X increase in rpms at the blade.
      No good deed goes unpunished

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      • LCHIEN
        Internet Fact Checker
        • Dec 2002
        • 21052
        • Katy, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 vintage 1999

        #4
        Originally posted by betacrash
        I have the opportunity to get a 3hp motor (around 3400rpm). Would it be ok to put this on my bandsaw? Or should I go with a 2hp?

        This is a thoughtful answer.

        I like to think (as an engineer) that someone spent more than a few minutes of their life designing this machine (another engineer). As with most machines, a proper design matches components for general economy as well as safety.
        That means that the parts are matched in quality and fit for purpose so as not to have a (for example) a $90 Forrest WWII blade on a $100 Direct drive benchtop saw leaving $10 budget for the motor and tabletop.

        In the case of the bandsaw it comes with a 3/4 (or 1 ?) HP motor and the belts, pulleys, wheels and other other moving components are sized to handle that load.

        Suppose the bandsaw should jam, stall or freeze, then in your present configuration the motor will likely blow the circuit breaker. If you put a 3 HP motor on this guy, then the possible result is an (unsafe) flying apart of wheels, pulleys etc and possible destruction of the saw as well. Because the drive train and mechanical frame of the saw was not designed to withstand 3 HP of applied power.

        There's also the serious problem Hoover mentioned about the speed.

        This sounds appropriate for Tim Taylor the Tool Time guy but I don't think it's a very wise move for a real life forum member.
        Last edited by LCHIEN; 02-18-2006, 10:22 AM.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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        • AlanWS
          Established Member
          • Dec 2003
          • 257
          • Shorewood, WI.

          #5
          I would agree with Lchien. You can get good results with an HF bandsaw (I do) but it does have a somewhat less solid frame and wheels than its more expensive competition. That means you might be wise to be particularly careful not to overstress it. If 1 HP isn't enough, I'd think about a sharper and/or coarser toothed blade and some tuning before higher power.
          Alan

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