Bandsaw tracking question

[crokett]

So I gave my bandsaw a test drive today - I needed to notch a 2x4. The blade tracked to the right of the cut line. It did this with a fence and without on cross cuts and rip cuts. Is it a feed problem? A dull blade? The motor did not seem to strain cutting. Is one of the wheels not aligned properly?

The blade guide is a small wheel that sits behind the blade and can be adjusted horizontally (I assume to allow for different blade widths to prevent the blade being deflected backward and off the pulleys. There are also 2 pieces that sit on either side of the blade that can be adjusted in or out. I thought these were to prevent deflection right and left. However the blade doesn't run between them and there appears to be no way to move them forward (or the blade back) to run between them. Is this a potential problem?

[Otter]

There may be 1 or more small issues that can cause this. I would start by double checkig the blade tension.

Take a close look at the blade. If the blade is a stamped blade, the teeth are sticking out more on one side than the other.

[LCHIEN]

quote:Originally posted by crokett

So I gave my bandsaw a test drive today - I needed to notch a 2x4. The blade tracked to the right of the cut line. It did this with a fence and without on cross cuts and rip cuts. Is it a feed problem? A dull blade? The motor did not seem to strain cutting. Is one of the wheels not aligned properly?

The blade guide is a small wheel that sits behind the blade and can be adjusted horizontally (I assume to allow for different blade widths to prevent the blade being deflected backward and off the pulleys. There are also 2 pieces that sit on either side of the blade that can be adjusted in or out. I thought these were to prevent deflection right and left. However the blade doesn't run between them and there appears to be no way to move them forward (or the blade back) to run between them. Is this a potential problem?

The two blocks on the side are blade guides and the wheel in the back is a thrust bearing. The ones you usually see are the set on the adjustable height guide.

There is an identical set below the table whose height is not adjustable.

Most BS books cover tuning the saw in detail. You need to read and understand this.

1. one of thie big causes of tracking is cheap blades with stamped teeth. Are you using a premium balde or the one that came withthe BS?

2. the guide blocks should be set right behind the teeth and about 3 mils or less between the blade and the blocks. 3 mils is .003" and the thickness of a dollar bill.
if you can't adjust the blocks then you'll have to adjust how the blade tracks on the wheels. There's adjustments for that.
3. Make sure the upper blade guide is adjusted down tojust above the workpiece.
4. Make sure the thrust bearing is about a 1/64th behind the blade when running free.

I'd really get a book on Bandsaws like Mark Duginske's book on bandsaws (don't remember the exact title) i thik there'a also one recommended by Lonnie Bird? (Someone help me out here).

[Brian G]

Duginske's is called "Bandsaw Handbook"

Bird's is called "The Bandsaw Book".

I have Duginske's. . . it's very informative.

[final_t]

I have both Bird's and Duginske's books. I find that Bird's book is more accessable to the reader and makes more sense to me. Duginske's is more dry and technical. YMMV.

[sacherjj]

I adjust the tracking of the blade on the top wheel until it will cut straight, when the wood is pushed along the rip fence. If it cuts to the left, adjust the blade further back on the wheel and vice versa.

[Jim Boyd]

Look at my rough drawing below. If your cut looks like the end view on the left you need to tune your saw and or the other things mentioned by the others. If your cut looks like the pic on the right (looking down on the piece as it slides on the table) and the cut is drifting right or left while using the fence. Then you need to adjust the fence for drift. This is normal and most bandsaw fences have the ability for adjustment. Do a google search on setting the fence for drift.

[crokett]

quote:Originally posted by jxyoung

Craftsman micro torque wrench $26 off. Now $48. 9/16 to 9/18

I would consider something else.
These do not have lifetime warranty, Husky@HD,and HF ones do. I have both and the Husky is better in 1/2" drive size due to 250

[Jim Boyd]

quote:Originally posted by jxyoung

Craftsman micro torque wrench $26 off. Now $48. 9/16 to 9/18

I would consider something else.
These do not have lifetime warranty, Husky@HD,and HF ones do. I have both and the Husky is better in 1/2" drive size due to 250