What is the right blade for ripping cherry

[kmk]

Hi All,

I'm a newbie and have BT3100 (yeah!!) I was wondering
whether I should change the stock blade for ripping
and crosscutting finished cherry (ready to install
cherry wood shelves, toe kick etc).

thanks
/kmk

[just4funsies]

The combo blade that comes with the saw is pretty good either way, but for really nice cuts, and prolonged blade life, use a good thin-kerf ripping blade (24-40 tooth) and a smooth finishing blade for crosscuts (60-80 teeth). It DOES get old changing the blade all the time, though, so you may just want to keep the stock combo clean and sharp, and maybe upgrade to a Freud or other top name combo blade when it's done.

[Thom2]

quote:Originally posted by just4funsies

... and maybe upgrade to a Freud ...

The stock BT blade is indeed a Freud 36T combo blade. While it's not available from Freud in the 36T (the 36 was apparently made strictly for Ryobi), it is very comparable to Freud's 40T combo blade (don't know the number right off hand).

You should be very pleased with the cuts you'll get from your factory blade, while most saws have garbage blades packed in the box, Ryobi trully did a fine job of packing a very respectable and useable blade.

[Knottscott]

If you want to improve on the stock blade, you might consider a Freud F410 40T, Forrest WWII 40T, DeWalt DW7657 40T, or Ridge Carbide TS2000 40T. These are elite performers on a wide variety of cuts and materials. The Forrest and Ridge Carbide are the best I've used. The DW is a bargain at ~ $50, and comes very close to the performance of teh WWII.

[monte]

The stock blade will work fine for ripping. I use a 60T for cross cutting cherry and other hardwoods.

[LCHIEN]

a good 24-t BLADE WILL PROBABLY RIP FASTER IF YOU NEED IT.
They have big gullets and can carry more wood off without
ballingup in the gullet that limits the cut rate.

That faster feed rate will help if you experience burning, as cherry is wont to do.

[kmk]

Thanks all for the response. The quality of the cut is
very important because I'd be ripping and cross cutting
finished (factory stained) cherry fluted fillers,
toe kick and moldings etc.

I'm bit confused with various suggestions. But, general comment from all of you is "the stock blade should produce quality cuts". If I want to improve, I could use 60T from elite performers (Forrest, Frued or Ridge ) for cross cutting cherry and other hardwoods.

[wassaw998]

Your post was asking for a blade for ripping. Most dedicated Ripping Blades are going to have a lower tooth count like Loring stated. For example:

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...rings_id=10630

If you are concerned about the cut quality on Ripping (not cross cuts) and are not happy with the stock blade, consider the one I linked.

[L. D. Jeffries]

Well for one thing; a really SHARP blade and absolute on-the-line alignment of the fence/blade. Otherwise, and sometimes even so you'll get burn marks. Usually you can get rid of them by using a cabinet scraper or 220 grit sandpaper. I use a lot of cherry and have fought with this problem forever..but cherry is SO nice I put up with it. Also I have a nearly free source of cherry....that helps!! BYW, the blade that came with my BT is one of my best.

[Russianwolf]

You will be fine with the factory blade. From the sound, you aren't concerned with a little burning as those edges are going to be hidden.

Your main concern it sounds is chipout of the finish. If you notice any of this, put blue painters tape on your cut line and that should prevent it if anything will.

I can say that I used the BT with the factory blade to cut prefinished Oak and had no problem with chipout, even on the crosscuts. Try a piece of scrap and see how it comes out.

[Pappy]

Been trying to resist since I first read this[B)]....Can't do it..........

Use the round one!

[mschrank]

Since you are a self-professed newbie, I'll mention one point you may or may not be aware of:
Make sure you feed the work with the finished side UP (This is opposite of the way you would cut it with a circular saw). This will minimize chipping along the cutline. I'm sure you'd probably do it right anyway since you don't want the finished side sliding across the table

For future reference, if it's important to get a clean cut on both sides, you'll want to install a ZCTP (Zero Clearance Throat Plate).

[JimD]

And make sure the blade is clean and you may want to practice your feed rate. And for rips, your rip fence must be well adjusted. Cherry burns with the slightest excuse but as long as you are not too far from optimum the burn marks should be easy to remove.

It is more important that the blade is clean and the saw adjusted than it is which blade you use.

Jim

[kmk]

I ordered Woodworker II 10" 40T (3/32" Thin Kerf) today from woodcraft.
I plan to use it mostly on cherry in the near future...

Did I order the right blade? On the same note, should I keep my stock blade around
when I have this one?

[gmack5]

Hang on to your Stock Blade!

By all means hang on to your Stock Blade, the one that came with your BT3X00 Saw, if nothing else it makes a good back up for when you send the WW II out for sharpening.