Bostitch 23 gauge pinner

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  • JimD
    Veteran Member
    • Feb 2003
    • 4187
    • Lexington, SC.

    #1

    Bostitch 23 gauge pinner

    I got a Bostitch 23 gauge pinner for Christmas and have used it a bit. The pins are headless and have arrows in ink on the side so you know which direction they go. The Bostitch will drive pins from about 1/2 inch to about 1 3/16. It is really made for metric measured pins with the longest support 30mm. This is 5 mm longer than the longest supported by the similar PC model. It has a nice switch on the side to set power - the only useful device like this I have seen. The air also exhausts out the back which is nice. It is very light and has a very narrow tip so you know exactly where the pin is going. I haven't put 100 pins through it yet but it has always fired. The trigger arrangement is a bit odd. There is a safety in the handle that you must squeeze before hitting the trigger. It has a hair trigger - a slight touch and it goes off. No need to be against the wood. This does not seem terribly safe but for an experienced user it should not be an issue.

    It costs a little over $100 and comes with literally nothing. No oil, no case, no pins. Pins are also not available everywhere so order some with the tool if you get it.

    I have a 16 gauge Bostitch nailer as well as a 18 gauge PC brad nailer and a HF stapler. My 16 gauge gun has never mis-fired but my PC used to, it seems to be better now. The HF is worth the money but is noticably rougher in operation than the other tools. The Bostitch 23 gauge seems like it will be as good a tool as the 16 gauge has been.

    I got the 23 gauge to attach moulding to furniture with a less visible hole than the brad nailer. It is clear already that it will do that. The little pins also do not split the wood making them handy for temporary attachment and even holding pieces you will clamp in alignment while you tighten the clamps. I think I will get more use out of it than I first thought.

    If you cannot tell already, I recommend it highly.

    Jim
  • lcm1947
    Veteran Member
    • Sep 2004
    • 1490
    • Austin, Texas
    • BT 3100-1

    #2
    Very timely post Jim. I myself am trying to decide on a pin nailer or staple gun. I plan on re-doing all my tool benches that I built out of 2X4's replacing them with cabinet type ones so am trying to decide which would be more appropriate. The pin nailer is nice but I a think a staple gun would be more useful in cabinet building. What do you think? Oh, I already have a very nice 18 ga. DeWalt. Hope you don't mind me asking a question in your post.
    May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, Mac

    Comment

    • JimD
      Veteran Member
      • Feb 2003
      • 4187
      • Lexington, SC.

      #3
      I am not totally pleased with my HF stapler but it is handy for attaching the backs of cabinets. I usually use luan plywood for the back so a 3/4 staple is a good attachment. Besides the fact that the HF stapler is not my favorite tool, I don't like the appearance of the staples. I only use them where they will not be seen (unlike the trim carpenter who did our hourse and used some on our oak handrail). The pinner would be nice for attaching little quarter round to hold glass in place on doors but I wouldn't trust the little pins for any weight bearing applications. They will hold stuff in place while glue sets, however, and don't show as much. The other issue for structural application is the limited length. To nail two pieces of 3/4 plywood together, I would normally want 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 nails (or even 2 inch) and the pinner only gets up to the low end of this range. If you wanted to pin a dado joint from the outside where the pins would show, however, that would be a good application of the pinner.

      I used 18 guage brads to attach cabinet backs before getting the stapler and still do so sometimes. I see the stapler as more limited in its uses.

      Jim

      Comment

      • lcm1947
        Veteran Member
        • Sep 2004
        • 1490
        • Austin, Texas
        • BT 3100-1

        #4
        Thanks Jim. So sounds like it being headless would still work for holding things together while glue sets? This was my only concern with just pins. What do you think of using my 5/8 18 ga. brads for stuff like the backs of cabinets and bottoms of drawers instead of staples or would staples be best do you think?
        May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, Mac

        Comment

        • onedash
          Veteran Member
          • Mar 2005
          • 1013
          • Maryland
          • Craftsman 22124

          #5
          I just got the ez fasten 21 gauge pin/brad nailer at woodcraft yesterday. It was on sale for $79 ($50 off regular price). I figured it should be the best of both worlds in one tool. I bought a few different packs of nails/pins and a couple test shots into the workbench leg and it sank just fine. My electric craftsman 18 gauge brad nailer sucks. It doesnt drive the longer brads all the way into harder wood. The only safety is a trigger block that moves to either side. I guess you adjust air pressure based on type of wood and legth of fastener. Owners manual is junk though but it comes in a little plastic case with a small bottle of oil. I figured its a lot cheaper than buying a PC 18 gauge brad nailer and 23 gauge pin nailer. I will try nailing some lyptus scaps tonight and see how it does.
          YOU DONT HAVE TO TRAIN TO BE MISERABLE. YOU HAVE TO TRAIN TO ENDURE MISERY.

          Comment

          • LCHIEN
            Super Moderator
            • Dec 2002
            • 21978
            • Katy, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 vintage 1999

            #6
            quote:Originally posted by lcm1947

            Thanks Jim. So sounds like it being headless would still work for holding things together while glue sets? This was my only concern with just pins. What do you think of using my 5/8 18 ga. brads for stuff like the backs of cabinets and bottoms of drawers instead of staples or would staples be best do you think?
            It holds by the friction on the sides of the pin and the compression ofthe wood. If you pry the piece off then usually the pin stays in the bottom (unless the depth into that piece is very small)

            Its great for fastening small molding and the like and where you need to hold to let glue set but don't want bloody great holes in the front of your furniture.

            Probably great for building doll houses and small boxes and other craft items.

            BTW there are other choices. I have the HF unit for around $60 and there's a SENCO/Accuset for $140 and I think i posted a $80 woodcraft special in bargain alerts a few days ago.
            http://www.bt3central.com/forum/topi...TOPIC_ID=28392
            whoops, expired 1/15.

            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment

            • JimD
              Veteran Member
              • Feb 2003
              • 4187
              • Lexington, SC.

              #7
              Loring's comment on holding duplicates my experience. It is easier to pry the pieces apart than if you used a pneumatic nail with a head but for holding it in place while the glue sets, it works. You could never drive a 23 gauge nail with a hammer (at least I couldn't) but when it zips in pneumatically, it holds better than I expected. I initially nailed a couple of 1/2 inch wood scraps together. One was hard maple and the other walnut. I quickly determined that the depth adjustment worked and that the gun could easily sink a 1 inch nail in hardwood. On the high settings, the nails would come out the far side a bit. On the lowest setting, the nail wouldn't go completely in. My air supply was at 90 psi. I also tried prying the pieces apart. With one or two nails it wasn't too hard but you had to work at it a bit. With 4, you need a pry bar. I would not be concerned with only these little brads in a piece of quarter round moulding holding the glass in a cabinet door. They hold pretty well. I will be even less concerned about holding things in place when glued. You can take things back apart when nailed with headless pins but I don't think they will readily pull themselves apart.

              Jim

              Comment

              • lcm1947
                Veteran Member
                • Sep 2004
                • 1490
                • Austin, Texas
                • BT 3100-1

                #8
                Thanks guys that pretty well tells me what I need to know about pin guns and sounds like that'll be my next tool but could you brief me about staple guns like what and when these come into play. I refuse to have 4 different type of guns so I'm trying to narrow it down to 2 guns one being my 18 gauge brad gun. Thanks.
                May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, Mac

                Comment

                • JimD
                  Veteran Member
                  • Feb 2003
                  • 4187
                  • Lexington, SC.

                  #9
                  Mac,

                  Staples hold better than brads or nails or pins. The order would be by the diameter of the nail or pin and by the number. In other words, a 18 gauge staple holds about the same as two 18 gauge brads. It will not pull through as easily, however because of the connection between the "brads". In other words, if you try to pull the back of a cabinet off that is made of 1/4 inch luan which is installed with 18 gauge brads to a 3/4 inch carcass, the brads will go through the 1/4 inch luan rather than pull out of the 3/4 carcass. If you are using staples, it will not pull off nearly as easily because it will have to pull off a bigger piece of the luan. The staple might even pull out of the carcass first. If the back of the cabinet will not be seen, staples will make a more secure connection. If you glue the back on and only use the fasteners to hold the back until the glue sets, it probably doesn't make a big difference (maybe not any difference).

                  If you are fastening pieces of wood together that are nearly the same thickness, the pull through risk is not great and, as I see it, you could use two brads and have about the same strength as one staple. The brads are also less objectionable in appearance.

                  What you want depends a lot on what you do. I bought a 16 gauge finish nailer first because I was finishing my basement at the time. 18 gauge brads will work on trim but pull through pretty easily. 16 gauge hold better and 15 gauge probably hold a bit better than that. I bought the 18 gauge thinking it would be good for furniture projects and light duty trim applications and it is. I was a bit disappointed by the visibility of the holes made by the 18 gauge in furniture, however, so I got the 23 gauge.

                  I look at the stapler as a kind of crude tool but one that holds things together well. The pinner is a much more finese tool. The fastening is much weaker but the appearance is much finer. I only use the staples where I don't have to look at them. I use the pinner whenever possible where the fastener hole will be visible.

                  Hope this helps.

                  Jim

                  Comment

                  • WEG
                    Established Member
                    • Nov 2003
                    • 298
                    • Nahant, MA.

                    #10
                    Hi Mac, Hi Jim;
                    First, thanks Jim for that great discussion on the guns. I never used a pinner, but I think I'm going to seriously look at getting one. As for staples Mac, Jim was right on. They are really good for attaching stuff like pegboard, thin stock that won't be glued that a finish nail will usually go right through and not hold much. Also they are great for re-covering (fabric) my chair seats. Seems my wife likes to change the outside table's chair fabric about every other year, and the staple gun makes attaching the fabric to the bottom of the seats a snap. My $.02 Hope it helps.
                    New shop cabinets huh? Stepping up!
                    WEG

                    Comment

                    • LCHIEN
                      Super Moderator
                      • Dec 2002
                      • 21978
                      • Katy, TX, USA.
                      • BT3000 vintage 1999

                      #11
                      There are two types of staple guns. Wide crown and narrow crown, the former having a 1/2" distance between prongs and the latter 1/4".

                      I use the wide crown for shallow stapling of upholstery, cardboard, fabrics, etc. generally the staples are 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2 inch long, relatively shallow, also the metal is wider and flat cross-section so it provides tear-out support for fabrics and paper and such. Uses same staples (IIRC) as the Arrow-type hand stapler guns or Craftsman hand stapler guns. But a whole lot more pleasant to use.

                      The Narrow crown is a thicker rounder cross section more like two 18 ga. nails. Also the staples are longer like 3/4 or 1"
                      THese are good for holding 1/4" plywood, perfboard, 1/4" masonite hardboard ect where the nail nole appearance does not matter, the bridge again provides strength against the material pulling out since the area under the bridge is a lot greater (and the sheet unbroken) than the area under the head of a brad (where the sheet is already broken through).

                      They each have their uses. So Lee, you not only need one, but two staplers in addition to your 3 or four nailers.

                      That's OK, I have two staplers (wide and narrow), plus 16, 18 and 23 ga nailers. No Framing nailer...

                      HF Staplers are pretty cheap.

                      Loring in Katy, TX USA
                      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                      Comment

                      • lcm1947
                        Veteran Member
                        • Sep 2004
                        • 1490
                        • Austin, Texas
                        • BT 3100-1

                        #12
                        Thanks guys that tells me exactly what I need to do. I'm getting the staple gun as the main purpose will be to staple drawer bottoms and backs of cabinets. The pin gun sure sounds neat but it'll have to wait - maybe be a Birthday or Christmas gift. [^] Thanks again so much for the detailed replies gentlemen.
                        May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, Mac

                        Comment

                        • ryan.s
                          Senior Member
                          • Feb 2006
                          • 785
                          • So Cal
                          • Ridgid TS3650

                          #13
                          Loring, how do you like the HF pinner? Does this item ever go on sale?

                          Comment

                          • LCHIEN
                            Super Moderator
                            • Dec 2002
                            • 21978
                            • Katy, TX, USA.
                            • BT3000 vintage 1999

                            #14
                            Originally posted by ryan.s
                            Loring, how do you like the HF pinner? Does this item ever go on sale?
                            Works OK, no complaints have not used it extensively. Thought I would do so - I should probably use it more for holding glue-ups together in alignment.

                            Have not seen it on sale.

                            The HF pin nailer is $60 but i noticed in a flyer that came in the mail this week they have a new model 93656-0CEH listed for $24.99 taking 1/2 to 1" 23 ga. pins but, I can't find it on their website either by number or keyword search.
                            Loring in Katy, TX USA
                            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                            Comment

                            • ryan.s
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2006
                              • 785
                              • So Cal
                              • Ridgid TS3650

                              #15
                              Is the flyer your talking about this flyer?

                              http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...pe=RET&simple=

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