Shop Setup Question

[r1968]

Hi Guys
I am getting the shop ready and have a few questions:
1. I am getting the electrical circuits put in on Monday. I am adding 3 Dedicated 20 amp 110v and 1 dedicated 15amp 220v. Do I need to change the 220 to a higher amp rating. The only 220 tool I am considering at this time is the Rikon Jointer/Planer whis is rated at 8.9 amps (may be the grizzly 8 inch if I feel I have the space to dedicate)
2. I will also be buying a HF bandsaw. Can that be run on 110V. If so how much does it draw?
3. I will be running only one tool + DC + Air cleaner at a time. (Delta 1 1/2 Hp DC). Do you see any issues with power.
4. The shop has 1 dedicated bay in a 3 car garage. All the tools are on wheels so during use, I can use the whole garage. The garage also has the gas furnace and the gas water heater. Do you see any problems with the dust. The DC will have a cardridge filter instead of the cloth bags.
5. I do not have the air cleaner yet. Should I build one or buy?
6. As far as the DC, I prefer to move the DC around to each tool as I use. Is this feasible or is it better to run ducts to all machines and keep the DC stationery. Also, reading Bill Pentz's site, I have concerns about 4" hose. If I go 5 inch, How do I find a reducer the go from 5 to the BT ( and shark) and my hitachi c10fsh all of which have 2 1/2 ports. I can only see 4 to 2 1/2 reducers in most places.
I will also need reducers from 5" to 4" for the Jointer/Planer.
7. My first project will be the router table for my Incra 24 Jig and the Milwaukee 5625 router. I plan on using tabletops from cubicle table surfces. They are commercial HDF with laminate top. Do you see any problems. I have a bunch of these. I just need to check and make sure there that it is flat.
8. I would appreciate any other words of wisdom.

I will post pictures soon.
--Raj

[Tom Miller]

I would definitely run 10 gage wiring for the 220 ckt to allow it to go up to 30A, 20A minimum (12 ga.), in the future. You can easily change breakers and outlets later, but pulling wire is the hard part.

3 20A ckts is a minimum, I think. Consider separate ckts for the following:

1. Lights
2. Outlet ckt for all your one-at-a-time tools.
3. DC and maybe air cleaner, if amperage allows.
4. Air compressor -- you didn't mention it, but it'll need a separate ckt if/when you get it.

I think if you're rolling your tools around, plumbing DC may not be practical. And if you use a short 4" hose at the tool (~6ft), I think you'll have plenty of CFMs.

That's all I've got.

Regards,
Tom

[maxparot]

I'd make the 220 circuit at least 30 amps. That will allow you to power most any large tool you'd find a use for in a home shop.
The bandsaw will run fine on a 15 amp circuit.
Since the DC will be used at the same time as other tools it would be best if it's curcuit was dedicated.
If you are only going to be using 1 major power tool at a time they can share a curcuit. I'd make that one a 20 amp to allow for the worst possible load.
As for reducing pipe size for your tools:
Reducers are available to go from 5" down to 1 1/4 in multi steps or 1 step at a time.
I just stepped up to the 2 hp HF DC myself. Part of the think on my part was with the more powerful DC my system can suffer a slight loss in flow due to pipe size, shape, and length while still being more effective than the HF portable DC I was using.
Since you too will only be using 1 tool at a time with the DC plumbing it to each tool with blast gates and pipe is a major convienience.

[LCHIEN]

my quick comments:
3 110 circuits not enough, with a DC on one, a major tool like a TS on teh second, and lights, air cleaner, air compressor on the third one, your basically full - no more power. You might need air conditioning, fans, a TV/Stereo/fridge :-), well maybe not all creature comforts, but you will need something else one day.

I personally think 15A at 220 is fine - that's equiovalent to a 30A tool on 110, power-wise, few individual shop tools for home use need take more than 4-5 HP. You'd only be running one at a time.

[Roger109]

I made the mistake a couple years ago,not running enough power to shop.Now in the expensive process of doing it right! Do yourself a favor and allow plenty of extra for later add ons.

[LarryG]

Adding to the others' good advice on the electrical ... put your high-amperage tools on the opposite leg from your lights. Even if the total amps is well within the capacity of the breakers and panel, switching on a high-amp tool (BT, CMS, big router, etc) can cause your lights to dim (or, if they're fluorescents, go out completely for a few seconds) if they're on the same leg in the panel.

I put a 60A subpanel in my shop. I have the lights, dust collector, and air compressor on one leg (each on separate circuits) and all the outlets for the various power tools on the other leg. Since the DC and compressor both draw a lot of amps at start-up, I used a 3-way switch wired such that flipping it to turn on the DC disables the outlet for the compressor.

Oh, that reminds me: figure out where your DC will sit and which outlet it will plug into, and then wire that outlet to a wall switch that is as centrally located to your major power tools as possible. IOW, the DC and its outlet can be anywhere but you want the switch that controls it to be close at hand.

[Jim-Iowa]

I hear your concern with 4" ducting. I too am considering getting a Dust collector. Having read Bill`s site quite a lot also had me concerned. I have no doubt Bill is right in his assertion that 6" ducting is optimum(and negative comments on PVC from others). However, reading back issues of wood magazine states that 4" is fine for a small hobby shop.
Since I started looking at what was available in my area(and cost is always a concern) I have discovered that anything over 4"PVC is hard to come by and expensive.
Last Week I was in the Woodsmith store in Des Moines(they claim to be the largest store dedicated to the home woodshop in the country).
I have no doubt they are correct.
They have an abundance of fittings, wastegates and parts, very little of which was larger than 4".
Based on their being located just 30 blocks from my workplace, I intend to go 4". It may not be optimum, but would prefer to take the step soon rather than wait till I can afford optimum(inhaling dust and dealing with the mess in the meantime).
The Air Filter(homebuilt) is in the works(got the blower,and planning construction) right now.

[JR]

Raj,

You've got a good set of question there and getting good advice, too.

My setup is similar to yours - third bay in a three-bay garage. I don't think you need to worry about the HVAC and water heater being in the space unless you really let things get out of control. Given that you're planning a DC and an air filter you won't have to worry about it.

I ran a spine of 4" pipe on the ceiling down the length of my shop, putting blast gates near the tools. My tools are on mobile bases. I run flex from the ceiling blast gate down to the tools.

I'm happy with this setup, experiencing no major hiccups so far (I just set it up this way at the turn of the year). I personally believe that for the class of DC we hobbyists use the larger pipe would result in lower flow than you'd want. There are optimimizing changes one can make to the system, but the cost delta to 5" or above just didn't seem worth it to me.

I'm out of positions on my 100A service panel, so I don't have the luxury of wondering about the best way to wire the shop! I recently added a 15A breaker into the last avaialable position, putting a duplex outlet on the ceiling in near the center of the shop. I attached a retractable reel to this outlet, which has turned out to be a very effective way to get power to the tools. Even with multiple circuits like you've got planned I'd advise the use of a reel.

Your idea about using modular furniture table tops sounds really good. I imaging that will work out fine.

Good luck, post some pice!

JR

[BizCoach]

I agree - run more wire and the largest you could possibly need. Running it is the expensive part.

As for one tool per time on the DC that's my set up with a HF 2hp (so called). It has a double inlet and I have two 4" flex hoses. And it's true I only use one tool at a time (after all I've only go two hands).

Maybe the problem is that mine is a very small and weird-shaped shop so I'm always moving stuff around. Maybe the problem is that I don't plan out every cut of every project before I start. I actually don't plan out every cut of any project before I start. So I'm constantly working on one tool when I just need a single cut off the chop saw or drill a single hole, and then back to the tool I was working with. The more hassle it is to move the DC hoses around the less likely I am to do it for just that one cut.

I'm looking at running pipe to everywhere I might want to hook up a tool, so that switching will be simpler.

Good luck.

[r1968]

Hi Guys
The electrician roughed in the wires last night and he will finish up tonight. I upgraded the 220V to 40 amp circuit. In addition, I have 2 dedicated 110V 20Amp circuits. Unfortunately, the panel is filled up and that is all I get without going to a new panel. At this time that money can be better spent on tools. I plan to run only one tool + DC + Air Cleaner at one time. The air cleaner and DC can probably share give my 50-850 is rated at 12 amps and most Air Cleaners I have looked at are less than 5 amps. The garage has lighting already (in circuits shared with rest of the house lighting). I can always borrow a 220V circuit from the clothes dryer when it is not being used.

This weekend is the santa clara show. so not much time for shop work other than clean up.
Thanks for all the input
-Raj

[LarryG]

quote:Originally posted by r1968

I upgraded the 220V to 40 amp circuit.

HOLY CRAP! Even a monster 5HP motor only draws about 25A. I guess you'll be set for pretty much anything ...

[vaking]

The only tool I know that can live in a home and uses more than 15A on a 220 circuit is an electric clothes dryer. I doubt you will need more than 15A on 220 line.