I need to run power to my jointer/planer. I'm going to surface mount the conduit. I'd prefer to use the gray schedule PVC conduit instead of metal for ease of use. Are there restrictions on when I can't use plastic conduit and metal must be used? The wire will be run in a conduit where the wall and ceiling meet. Near the J/P, the conduit will go down the wall about 1' off the floor into a surface mounted outlet box. Any problems here?
surface mounting conduit--plastic or metal?
Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
-
You will need to check your local code for that. If the conduit will not be in a hazardous location you could probably get by with sch 40. Some locations require sch 80 if subject to abuse thou. -
Inside locations you can use metal conduit, the thin stuff, EMT and IMT, it's way cheaper than PVC and is really easier to use. And it doesn't sag like PVC and there are lots of fittings available for it, terminate in a receptacle size box and go the rest of the way with flex or romex. Check local code, but I've never heard where it didn't meet code. Try the metal, you'll like it.Comment
-
Was considering not using a NEMA twist lock plug for this new outlet. The ones for my TS and BS stick out quite a way from the wall. I have this extra 30A, 250v outlet. Could I connect just 3 wires to this (2 hots and a ground) and find the corresponding plug and connect the black, white, and ground wires to match? Should I run a 4th wire for just in case later? I'm thinking for this outlet, if I ever move, I'm taking the whole run with me.
Comment
-
In response to the original post. When I added a couple of circuits to my garage (added 3 circuits total, 2ea 20 amp 120V with 3 outlets on each, 1ea 30 amp 240V with 1 outlet), I did it in surface mount schedule 80 PVC. My one recommendation is to use stranded wire if possible, as opposed to solid core. That solid core stuff is a real pain in the butt to pull.Comment
-
After seeing the bill for all the wire and conduit parts at HD, I kind of miss the days of 120V tools. Just plug in and go. No extras needed.
I decided to use the plastic conduit for ease of installation. My HD only carried Sch40 for the 3/4", no Sch80. All of it runs 8' up the wall except for the last 8' where it gets plugged in 3' off the floor. I guess I'll be more cognizant of its presence when moving materials around. I didn't price out between metal and PVC but I only need 2 of the junction boxes. The 10gauge wire was more than 50% of the bill, though, and no way to get around that.
I'm going to take this Friday off work and run everything. Hopefully I'll be able to power up the J/P this Friday, too.Comment
Footer Ad
Collapse
Comment