Do you have a router table?

[Bill in Buena Park]

Cochese,
I use the router kit for my 21829, and keep a dedicated router in it, in addition to having build a separate router table, also with a dedicated router in it. The router kit will get you quite a ways, especially if you build an auxiliary router fence to mount to the rip fence, instead of using the kit version - mine includes a built-in port for my shopvac.

When I started routing larger pieces, and then wanted to do raised panels, the router kit was too small, so built the bigger table. My 21829 is still on the mobile stand, but if it weren't, I'd probably be looking to copy the on-saw custom tables like JRs.

[Cochese]

I've been wondering about taking it off the stand, because it seems I can do anything I need to in the shop. But then, where would I keep the stand. Also, if I take it off the stand I might as well sell it and get a hybrid instead.

I may use the built-in on the left side with my smaller router (the one that's currently in the router table) for small stuff, and keep the bigger router's fixed base on the right side for panel bits, etc.

I may need to take some detailed measurements and finally Sketchup a good model of the 21829.

[JimD]

What is on the right side of the saw now? I have enough depth to position my router table a bit closer to the normal operator position of the saw, not against the wall. But my router table is roughly where you have something on the right on the infeed side of the table saw. The garage door is on the other side. I have to open the door to route long boards but that is not a big deal to me.

With respect to routers, I have two PC690s and 4 bases so I could sacrifice a fixed base to the setup in my BT3100 extension table. The freestanding router table has an old Ryobi R500 motor (only). After getting a router table with a lift I do not think I will ever go back. One relatively inexpensive way to do this is the router raizer on a big plunge router (like a Hitachi C12V). I built my lift, however, and it works well.

Jim

[Cochese]

Under the extension table is my Ridgid vac that serves as my dust collection. It doesn't need to be right there, but admittedly it is the best spot I can think of. I don't have room to move it closer to the saw body because of the handles on the saw.

There is room between the vac and the saw for the router to go, no problem. Dust collection might be tricky, but it would certainly function. The depth is only about 3" narrower than my router table as-is, but I prefer wider anyway (using the router in the same position I would use the table saw, not on the end).

[Bill in Buena Park]

I keep a shopvac under the right side auxiliary tables as well (I have two, bought an extra, for extra space and in case I wanted to have a third router mounted with a roundover or rabbeting bit. )

There's pic in this thread showing a simple rip-fence-mounted router fence I use, and in this one the switch I added under the aux table, to make routing from the side more convenient. I like side use, because I can (1) use the above fence without having to rig a fence that would have to be mounted perpendicular to the aux table, and (2) I can move the shopvac to make room for my feet - from the front, I'd likely be kicking the stand wheels all the time.

[Cochese]

I think I've been convinced to put one or two in the table saw and go from there. Perhaps one on the left sideways and the other straight on in the middle. I've got two routers, and will probably angle for a third at some point.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[JimD]

Mine is very simple. The underside of the 3/4 melamine top of the extension table is reduced to about 3/8 thickness in the shape of the router base. I screw it in position using the screws that hold the router base on. I have a fence that has slotted holes and a couple knobs that go through the fence into T-nuts in the melamine top. While it is simple, it works fine.

Jim

[bullethead1964]

I do have a router table...barely

I have a 1990's era Craftsman aluminum router table with a Craftsman router mounted in it.

It's so compact I can just store it under my mobile work bench.

I break it out, set it on a small HF workmate, clamp in down and go to work.

It's unreal how such an inexpensive table and router has served me so well for so long.

I have never seriously thought of "upgrading".

You can see it under the mobile work bench on the first pic of my picturetrail link.

[Cochese]

Since I posted this thread I undertook the kitchen table project. One facet of it was to make a tongue on some hardwood to match the groove of the plywood. I needed pieces about 54" long, so I decided that the only way to do this would be to try and wrestle the router table outside.

I found out that I was able to get it outside without much trouble, meaning the narrowest part of the walkway, between the table saw and the band saw, wasn't an issue. That was interesting. However, the table is still probably too bulky to be used inside the shop, for anything longer than a couple of feet unless I can position it by the door. Having it on the table saw, I might have been able to do it if my fence is able to be used in two positions 90º from another.

I'm glad I've seen this, and it will have to factor into my decision.

[gerti]

If I'd be really rich: http://www.festoolcms.com

[mpc]

My BT3 mounted router table (in a set of BT3 extension rails to the right of the blade) has T-track for multiple purposes. Two tracks on either side of the router plate allow the fence to be perpendicular to the BT3's rails; I stand off the right side of the BT3 to use the router this way. But I can also mount a fence perpendicular to those that allow the router fence to run parallel to the BT3 rails which lets the whole table saw surface be a router work surface... once the saw blade guard is removed.

Nobody ever said you can't have fences usable at multiple angles on a router table!

My router hangs underneath the table, no box around it. Ergo no dust collection to speak of. The fence has the typical "mouse hole" and vac port behind it but that only catches half the mess; whatever falls straight down into the router ends up on the floor. I haven't made any effort to contain this mess; half the time when using the router I'm making a groove/dado and that shoots sawdust across the table inside the freshly cut groove and from there onto the floor anyway. So even if I captured all the falling dust, I've never seen a decent way to capture groove/dado dust on a router table... I'd still have a mess to clean up. I plan to make a whole new mobile base/cabinet for my BT3 setup (and I'll probably Frankensaw it too) and the router table end will get some tweaks at that time.

mpc

[ironhat]

Sorry that I'm late to the party, folks (story of my life ). I have a homemade on my Ridgid 3650, homeade fence and a Woodpecker insert. FOr DC I use solely a shop vac just behind the bit and attached to the fence. I used to have an extremely low tech, loose 1x1 brackets so that I could sling a small, plastic waste basket under the router. When I determined that the vac was getting nearly all of the dust I eliminated the basket in favor of better air flow.

[durango dude]

I have a router flipped upside down, mounted on a B&D shop mate.

Don't really like it that much. Kind of bothers me, to be honest.

The router is plenty secure ---- but big bits scare me (I won't use it for that)
No - I'm not cutting cabinet panels with it.

For this tactic, I usually go with a 3/8" round over bit.

It works okay for small pattern cutting, as well.

[jabe]

router table

I have an old PC router table, I refurbished it 2 years ago. I haven't used it since.

[capncarl]

One day reality sets in and we decide that having tools exclusively for one task is more than our floor space budget will bear. That is why the shopsmith was so popular years ago when shop space was barely more than a walk in closet. Tools were smaller sized and the craftsman devised ways to make do. If there was a real need for a full time router table in my shop I would find a place for it, maybe next to the 1945 Delta jig saw that I just had to have, or the wood lathe that I seldom ever use anymore, or the work bench full of grinders, belt sanders and other sharpening tools that engulf a complete work bench. The BT3/Craftsman table attachment router with some clever attachments has served me well. The time lost in change over from saw to router is probably less than the time that I would have spent building a stand alone routher table that I would have to walk around the rest of my life.
We all need to remember that the old world craftsmen and artists that we will never will be anywhere as good as were working with a variety of hand planes and chisels that would fit in a small chest of drawers.

capncarl