Pencil Lines On Painted Surfaces

[wannabee]

I am laying out my lines to drill my shelf pin holes and have made light pencil lines for this...not using a jig just measuring and drilling....I have painted the project first with semi gloss paint...after drilling I am removing the light pencil marks and am finding that no matter what I try where the pencils were now the paint is flat in that area...

any ideas on how to get the pencil marks off without ruining the paint job..thank you

[Uncle Cracker]

How are you removing the pencil marks? If you are using an eraser or other mildly abrasive method, that may be the cause of the dulled finish. Try a damp sponge instead.

[Jim Frye]

any ideas on how to get the pencil marks off without ruining the paint job..thank you

Try denatured alcohol for removing pencil marks. If you have already used an eraser to remove the marks, this method may not work well. If you did use an eraser, that is why the surface is dulled. even soft erasers, like the pink ones have a bit of abrasive in them. An art gum eraser will also dull the surface a bit.

[Whaler]

This stuff www.redtape1.com really works. I just finished a project and used it to lay out the drilling pattern.

[Gray Guy]

A little Fantastic cleaner on a soft cloth has always worked for me, even on flat paint. I assume you are using a soft pencil lead and not causing impressions in the coating.

John

[cabinetman]

Has anyone mentioned not to use an eraser?
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[Uncle Cracker]

Has anyone mentioned not to use an eraser?
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Yes...

[wannabee]

thank you for all your replies.....yes on the first cabinet I did use a gum eraser...on the second I used rubbing alcohol and tried other so called non abrasive cleaners but as you said these did not work...my lines are light and do no go thru the paint...the paint is 2 coats primer and 2 coats semi gloss over 3/4 mdf...I had never heard of the red tape method.....I have repainted the first 2 but have not done anything to the last 3 waiting on a method that may work not just on this project but also on future ones..thanks all

[chrisk]

Regarding shelf peg holes.

When I have done this, I've used a template made of pegboard. I don't even mark the wood. Just clamp it in position and put on the drill press. You can mark the center of the hole with a marker. The spacing is always right on.

[LCHIEN]

This stuff www.redtape1.com really works. I just finished a project and used it to lay out the drilling pattern.

I guess the tape being disposable you can just drill through the tape when using even increments instead of making layout lines. What a good idea.

Of course, next time you can also put masking tape on the workpiece, mark the masking tape, drill through the masking tape and then remove the tape and marks. You don't need the red tape.

[docrowan]

thank you for all your replies.....yes on the first cabinet I did use a gum eraser...on the second I used rubbing alcohol and tried other so called non abrasive cleaners but as you said these did not work...my lines are light and do no go thru the paint...the paint is 2 coats primer and 2 coats semi gloss over 3/4 mdf...I had never heard of the red tape method.....I have repainted the first 2 but have not done anything to the last 3 waiting on a method that may work not just on this project but also on future ones..thanks all

The red tape is not a method, but a new product discovered by one of the members here. It is a clear tape with an accurate ruler printed directly on it. It will not help you with your current problem, only allows you to avoid making pencil marks in the future.

[Tom Slick]

maybe careful use of a Magic Eraser?

[cabinetman]

You might try a very fine rubbing compound, with a very smooth cotton cloth. As for marking holes, when using the pegboard, just use the holes as a drill pattern. No need for red tape or penciling in the pegboard holes. Using the same piece of pegboard for shelf clip holes both sides, reference the bottom and front (or rear), and it will give both vertical and front to back spacing...no measuring needed.

Or, if you don't have pegboard, and the spacing is different, make a drill jig from 1/4" plywood or Masonite (hardboard).
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[wannabee]

if I wanted to try the pegboard jig how would I get my 3/16 bit (5mm) to center in the 1/4 holes of the pegboard...thank you

[cabinetman]

if I wanted to try the pegboard jig how would I get my 3/16 bit (5mm) to center in the 1/4 holes of the pegboard...thank you

I never liked the 5mm hardware, but just use 1/4" Masonite or plywood, lay out the hole pattern and drill the first set through with a 5mm drill bit. I use a sharp awl to poke mark for the first drilling. Then use those drilled holes as a pattern.

If you don't have a piece large enough to do both sets of side holes, cut a strip that spaces them the same distance from the back edge and front edge, and just use spring clamps to hold it in place while drilling.
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