Shop cleanup and rearranging still a work in progress.

[thestinker]

Lookin good man, keep it up. I hope one of these days that I begin to get mine set up...but then I could actually build something besides jigs and shop stuff. Scarry

[dbhost]

No kidding!

I keep drawing up a canoe enclosure to move it out to the back yard... I am NOT coming up with a design I like yet... I keep thinking giant deck box...

[Mr__Bill]

The Canoe, I am taking a guess that the shop has a truss roof system. There may be a space large enough to fit a canoe in there, just need a canoe shaped door on the outside end and two really tall people to put it up there.....

Canoes also make good planters in the front yard and interesting decoration in the family room......



Bill, with two kayaks and a similar storage problem.

[dbhost]

The Canoe, I am taking a guess that the shop has a truss roof system. There may be a space large enough to fit a canoe in there, just need a canoe shaped door on the outside end and two really tall people to put it up there.....

Canoes also make good planters in the front yard and interesting decoration in the family room......



Bill, with two kayaks and a similar storage problem.

Well, FWIW, the canoe keeps the guys in the 35 foot go fast boats on their toes... I take it out into the shallows of Galveston Bay to fish spots to muddy to wade fish, and too shallow to get any other type of boat. Even with my hefty butt in there, I draft less than a foot fully laden.

If I could get the HOA to approve the door front idea, I might do it. I have TONS of room upstairs. It would be a VERY simple matter of sliding it off the truck rack and nearly straight across to the attic if the siding wasn't in the way...

I have a neighbor that simply keeps his 'Yaks on the rack on his truck, wrapped up with a tarp and cargo strapped down. Not the approach I want to take... I can see me pulling my truck up to work with a boat on top... Not to mention the gas mileage hit...

[LarryG]

A not-exactly-on-topic Q: how do you make only a portion of your SU model display using X-ray mode, rather than all of it? I could use that trick myself.

[dbhost]

A not-exactly-on-topic Q: how do you make only a portion of your SU model display using X-ray mode, rather than all of it? I could use that trick myself.

Select the object you want translucent, and then pick the bucket fill tool. Select translucent from the bucket fill pallet dialogue, and pick your translucency. Just like filling with a color or texture.

[LarryG]

Select the object you want translucent, and then pick the bucket fill tool. Select translucent from the bucket fill pallet dialogue, and pick your translucency. Just like filling with a color or texture.

No, that can't be what you're doing. That's too easy. And too obvious.

Well, duh. I have of course used translucent textures for glass and glazing, but I never thought about applying them to a wall or floor or ceiling. I thought you had figured out some way to use X-ray mode only for certain faces, instead of it applying globally to the entire model.

Thanks!

[dbhost]

No, that can't be what you're doing. That's too easy. And too obvious.

Well, duh. I have of course used translucent textures for glass and glazing, but I never thought about applying them to a wall or floor or ceiling. I thought you had figured out some way to use X-ray mode only for certain faces, instead of it applying globally to the entire model.

Thanks!

I did use it for certain faces. The walls and the ceiling. The floor and objects inside the model are not translucent.

I tried not to overthink this... And failed.

[dbhost]

It's been a long while since I have posted up about my progress here... So for those that are even vaguely interested, here is the current status...

#1. Clean up, and tote up whatever is not shop stuff, yard stuff, or BBQ stuff, and get it into the attic for storage.

Small stuff is toted up, Attic is re-decked, and the stuff has been shoved up there. As a bonus, the reason for re-decking the attic was to give me an opportunity to insulate the ceiling. Done deal, and it REALLY helps...

#2. Build a second pair of saw horses, shorter than the first, to hold the canoe up. Move the canoe to the far side of the house, between the house and the neighbor's fence. Wrapped in a silver tarp to prevent U.V. damage to the boat.

Like my prior post. Have the new sawhorses, still working on those stumps, about ready to hire a tree service with a stump grinder, but it has been so wet since October that I haven't had a decent opportunity to get anyone out...

#3. Thoroughly clean, and dismantle the plastic shelving units. Some are pretty worn out, the good ones are going to go into the new shed once it is up, but for now, dismantle them, bind them up in a couple of large boxes, or use plastic twine to keep it all together and stuff it in the attic.

No change here, still a disaster...

#4. Remove wall mounted items between end of workbench, and interior door. Move the Mechanics tool box, floor jack, jack stands, oil drain, etc... to this location.

Most wall mounted items removed, Still need to shorten the workbench and install the uprights etc...

#5. Add the needed circuits. Ike messed up my arrangements for the power project, I need to get that back on track, including running power down the middle of the garage ceiling, every 36" so that I have 5 rows of outlets that are switched. Total amp draw if I recall correctly for 10 4ft fixtures was under 10 amps. USE ORANGE OR YELLOW SOCKETS AND PLATES MARKED FOR LIGHTING FIXTURES ONLY. In case a future homeowner tries running a 15 amp saw with lighting in place on this circuit... You never know. Pull a fairly high amperage circuit down the outside wall where the power tools should reside. Most likely a dedicated 20 amp 110 circuit. Outlets every 3 feet, spaced evenly with the ceiling outlets if possible, 3' from ground height, GFCI protected. This will provide power to the 110v tools. This should suffice as I am NOT going to ever be running more than 1 power tool at a time. Run a 220v single phase circuit with two sockets about midway down the wall for a potential future bigger table saw, or a major motor upgrade on my band saw. (I have a 220v single ph 2HP motor that would drop in as a direct replacement if I had the power to drive it...).

Have done the wiring for the shop lights. Arranged and installed 4 fixtures, 2 fixtures still sit waiting to be installed. Another victim of the fence material in the shop...

#6. Move all the tools benches etc... to the center of the shop. Cover them up with a drop cloth. Clean everything on the walls ceiling, and floors surrounding it, patch whatever isn't right sheet rock wise, prime it with Kilz2, and paint with Bright White semi gloss paint. (Glidden Semi Gloss Bright White, already have it).

Still pending getting the fence material and plastic shelving out of the garage.

#7. I still need to figure out exactly what I am going to do with the floor. Chances are good, nothing. Probably just grab some of those rubber mats to stand on by each of the major machines, and the work bench...

I have a slow start to it, but I have picked up a Craftsman Anti Fatigue mat. Picked up a second Craftsman Anti Fatigue mat, need 2 more. Saw the ones at Woodcraft, missed out on the clearance. Figure I will stay consistent. And the Craftsman mats offer good contrast to almost anything I can drop on them... Considering painting the floor with some of that Behr garage floor paint, not sure if it is worth the effort though...

#8. Once the paint is dry, the DC system plumbing will be run along the right side (as seen from the front) wall, just above where the new electrical runs will be made. This will run the entire length of the shop wall, ending at a 90 degree bend just prior to a blast gate and a 20 foot hose out in the driveway for car cleaning...

Boy did this ever change. Yes the side of the garage we are going to is the same, but I have since upgraded to a HF 2HP DC, Wynn filter, Thien Separator, and 4" duct work. I have the DC pulling from the shroud, and belly pan on the BT, and have the shop vac / thien pulling through a hose to the shark guard... The 2.5" duct work system is in progress of getting boxed up (REAL pain in the butt, I should have kept the original boxes), so I can get a shipping estimate and price out to a member here. I'd like to see it go to a good home.


#9. Move the workbench, and auto tools back to where they came from.

Gotta move the other stuff out first...


#10. Put all the lumber temporarily along the left wall.

Again, gotta move other stuff first...

My #11 changed. I owned the BTS-21 when I originally wrote this, so my numbering from here on out changes.

#11. Move BT3100 to center of shop, oriented front / rear in the shop.

Done, with infeed coming in from the overhead door side....

#12. Build proper woodworking workbench, at outfeed height for table saw, position behind saw.

Done. About to be redone. I couldn't find SYP 4x4s untreated locally so I used Cedar, and the thing ended up WAY too light. Going to redo the base with SYP, but will simply joint, plane, then laminate 2x4s together to come up with the 4x4s I need... I REALLY need the extra beef...

#13. Remove bench top tools from stands, mount on mounting boards, and stow those mounting boards on a Rubbermaid closet rail and bracket system.

Done to the planer, jointer, sander, and bench grinder to this. The Grinder has been upgraded to an 8" model with the Wolverine sharpening system, and Norton White Oxide wheels... The CMS is still on its folding stand.

#14.Obtain floor model drill press, and drill press accessories.

Done that. Have all of my drilling accessories mounted within easy reach of the DP. Repurposing the mobile base that used to be under the sander to the DP. That is a project in progress. Going slow because I have been lazy about it...

#15. Move band saw to space along right side wall.

Again, this will move when that wall is ready...

#16. Move lathe to just inside right side garage door.

Pending availability of the space.


#17. Build on lathe storage and ballast.

Simple shelf with holes to hold items without a case, and a couple of 80lb bags of QuickCrete. Done but fugly. Have a MUCH nicer 5 drawer cabinet design ready. Will have lower compartment sized to fit the 2 80lb QuickCrete bags. Drawers will store my now reasonably sizeable turning tools collection, chucks, etc...

#18. Clamp storage needs to be re-assessed. IF at all possible, I want to build a rack similar to the one Suwat Phruksawan set up for his clamps. I need to figure out how to do this, AND allow for space to rack up 12 3/4" pipe clamps. (I don't have that many yet, but I have projects in mind that at LEAST 8 will be needed, but 12 would NOT be out of the question. Large china cabinet project for LOML...). The clamp racks will likely still be where they are now, but quite possibly they could end up on the wall with the other stuff if I can figure out how to make it fit.

Done. Not as fancy as I had originally envisioned. I simply moved the existing stuff down, mounted a shelf above for addtiional storage, and mounted spring brackets for the pipe clamps. It works really well, even has space for my box of rags, and a little cleat to keep it from sliding out at my head when I pull rags from it.

#19. Handheld power tool storage.

This has been mostly, but not entirely placed on a shelf mounted up 6' 2" (just over my head so I don't bang my skull into it) and houses everything except for my Hitachi Routers. Those will go on top of the upcoming shelf on the wall side workbench.

I know from this it doesn't sound like much is being accomplished, but trust me, this is actually a LOT of progress considering the other projects, and the constantly growing honey do list...

[crokett]

Slow but sure progress. Have you thought about forming and pouring those 80lb bags into shelving?

[dbhost]

Slow but sure progress. Have you thought about forming and pouring those 80lb bags into shelving?

With the summer humidity here, all I have to do is wait :-P...

Seriously though, yeah I had considered casting the concrete into the cabinet. I figure caulk the corners to keep the concrete from seeping out while it sets. The water alone will add some extra weight, probably get the whole ballast thing to around 200 lbs after factoring in the weight of the lumber, concrete, etc... It is definately not ruled out at this point...

[crokett]

I was thinking form it up and make the concrete a cabinet, or at least the carcass. You could cast supports for shelves right into the concrete.

[pelligrini]

#12. Build proper woodworking workbench, at outfeed height for table saw, position behind saw.

Done. About to be redone. I couldn't find SYP 4x4s untreated locally so I used Cedar, and the thing ended up WAY too light. Going to redo the base with SYP, but will simply joint, plane, then laminate 2x4s together to come up with the 4x4s I need... I REALLY need the extra beef...

I bet that cedar did get pretty light. Might consider using SYP 2x10s or 2x12s and ripping them down to size. You can get a bigger leg than 3 1/2 x 3 1/2. I've also found it easier to get straighter 2x12s than 2x4s when I did my bench. I did 5x5 legs on one end and 5x7 legs on the other for my leg vise face and to get a little more mass.

[dbhost]

I bet that cedar did get pretty light. Might consider using SYP 2x10s or 2x12s and ripping them down to size. You can get a bigger leg than 3 1/2 x 3 1/2. I've also found it easier to get straighter 2x12s than 2x4s when I did my bench. I did 5x5 legs on one end and 5x7 legs on the other for my leg vise face and to get a little more mass.

I was working from the FWW plan. I made the top 72" instead of 60" though...

[wardprobst]

I'll second the 2x10 or 2x12 approach since you have the tools to mill lumber and join it. Go to a real lumber yard ( not the BORG) and get 24 footers and you will have some decent wood to work with. It's actually cheaper that way here on the prairie.
DP