4" S&D, to HF blast gates?

[dbhost]

I just picked up a HF 97869 2 HP Dust Collector and I am needing to move forward in plumbing the DC system. I am going to be using 4" S&D pipe and fittings to plumb my system.

The blast gates I have are from Harbor Freight, item # 97497 which I have seen several of the guys here show that they are using.

The question I have is how to connect the blast gates to the S&D... I am looking for pics of how folks set this up. I know Rockler sells adapters, but I THINK I should be able to slip the blast gate inside a nipple of 4" S&D and use a short self tapping sheet metal screw to hold it in place. Does this work or should I actually go with the proper reducers?

[Uncle Cracker]

I used 4" styrene pipe, as it fits many apps better, but you can make reducer sleeves for the S&D out of short pieces of scrap pipe, and just cut slots in it with the bandsaw. then you can solvent-cement as needed, or use hose clamps.

[rjwaldren]

If its the S&D that has the white outer sleeve and a black inner sleeve I had good luck removing the outer sleeve for inside connections and the inner sleeve for outside connections with a utility knife. I don't know how close in size the HF gates are though.

[sweensdv]

It's been over 13 years since I was in the pipe selling business but IIRC 4" S&D pipe had an OD measurement of 4.38". You should be able to measure the blast gate and figure out if the dimensions are compatible. Your main problem though will be the incompatibility of the PVC S&D pipe and the ABS blast gates. Possibly something like a Fernco 1056-44 flexible coupling will solve that problem.

[dbhost]

Since ABS pipe is hard to come by around here (never seen it) it is sounding like the Rockler adapters are my key if I don't want a big hassle with them....

I think from the setup I saw, the blast gate was set up with something around them to make up the gap to a S&D coupler type fitting...

[Relative]

If you are not sure of the layout, try using the cardboard inserts from rug rolls. You can cut, chop, throw away, re-do, etc. until you get the layout you think you want. Then, either replace the cardboard with your final ducting - or you may find the cardboard tubes do just fine. Real cheap and easy to change your mind later. These things work just fine for me.

Free from your local HD, Lowes, etc.

Mike

[dbhost]

Not a bad idea but I am already certain of the layout. The layout for the garage shop will not require any tube cutting, and when the shed / shop comes into play, the run pretty much only has one way to go...

[messmaker]

The blast gate will fit inside S&D just fine. I use one inch self tapping screws in each joint. It has held for years. I use the rug rolls as well. They are very light and easy to work with.

[Relative]

I use the rug rolls as well. They are very light and easy to work with.

They work in place of the flexible hose just great. I use them for connecting the plastic connectors together instead of cutting the flexible hose for short sections.

Mike

[dbhost]

They work in place of the flexible hose just great. I use them for connecting the plastic connectors together instead of cutting the flexible hose for short sections.

Mike

Sweet tip!

Thanks...

[dbhost]

The blast gate will fit inside S&D just fine. I use one inch self tapping screws in each joint. It has held for years. I use the rug rolls as well. They are very light and easy to work with.

Does it seal well or do I need to tape the joint?

[John Hunter]

I too slipped the HF blast gates inside the S&D. I did use a couple of wraps of duct tape to make it fit nice and snug then added some short self tapping sctres to hold it in place. Has worked great for years.

[dbhost]

I too slipped the HF blast gates inside the S&D. I did use a couple of wraps of duct tape to make it fit nice and snug then added some short self tapping sctres to hold it in place. Has worked great for years.

Cool...

I was thinking about this. The wall thickness of S&D is around 1/8", and then to go through the duct tape, and sufficiently bite into the ring of the blast gate, I am thinking the setup should be...

Wrap a winding or 2 of decent duct tape around the male end of the blast gate. Slip fit it snugly into the S&D, and run a 5/8" to 3/4" self tapping screw into the assembly on the bottom to lock it together. (I have a box of #10 x 3/4" self tapping screws waiting to do something...

My overall concept that I am building up to is this...

20 amp circuit from washing machine extended into cubby where shop vac & DC live. New shelf gets put in where vac hides above DC, and 2 Thien Cyclone trash can separators are stacked on the wall next to them., bottom one a 55 gallon steel drum (waiting for me to pick it up) for the DC, top one the existing 20 gallon steel trash can model for the shop vac.

Shop Vac DC lines get a ceiling re route to help eliminate as much of the up & down and bending as possible, AND to be able to drop a 2.5" line down right over the TS to the Shark guard, 4" S&D line runs along the outside wall, on the bottom, with blast gates and hoses to go split to the bottom of the BT, a 4" x 4" x 4" wye with 2 4" to 2.5" reducers to run plenty of CFM into the blade shroud and belly pan. A shop built based off of a plastic tote collection hood for the CMS gets put in place, as does a proper drop and positioning clamp for the drill press to get dust collection there, and a lower wheel guard port gets added to the band saw, along with a Wye, that gives me a 2.5" port run, and if I can find one, a Ridgid BS1400 dust collection port.

[LarryG]

If you've not yet bought those gates, I suggest spending more on something better, as the black plastic gates have a tendency to clog. I have a shop full of them (two bucks each, on sale) and hate them. I also have a box of aluminum gates, slated as replacements.

But a lot of people do use the black plastic gates and find them acceptable. So if you already have them, two suggestions. One is to orient them so that the gate slides vertically, with the "handle" on the bottom (i.e., pull down to open, push up to close). This will put gravity on your side and help keep the top corners of the gate housing clear of accumulated sawdust. The other is to use the trick some have done of nipping these corners off slightly. This creates a couple small air leaks, but it gives the sawdust a place to go and reportedly helps prevent clogging.

[dbhost]

I have the gates already, and I am aware of the clogging issue. I was planning on mounting the gates with the handle down...