Flourescent (sp?) bulb protectors?

[dbhost]

Okay, in the garage lighting thread, several members mentioned using some sort of bulb protectors. Who is using them, and where do you get them? I remember years ago seeing clear acrylic tubes that the bulbs slid into, but haven's seen anything like it since.

It's a non issue in the garage, but in the upcoming shed the ceiling height will be quite a bit lower under the loft (7' instead of 8' 6"),

[Tom Slick]

HD sells the plastic tubes, make sure to get the ends that snap onto them or they aren't as protective.

you'll get better protection from fixtures with a cage on them or at least a diffuser.

[dbhost]

I'm actually planning on using the cheap BORG fixtures. I may not need bulb protection though, it kind of occoured to me that the shed won't have finished celings, and the lights will actually be recessed in the ceiling joists for the loft.

[kevincan]

I use them. I got them in the same section at Menards where the sell the bulbs. I haven't looked at HD or Lowes but I would imagine they would have them. I don't remember the cost but they were inexpensive.

I haven't broken one yet but I have bumped the lights a few times moving a board around. It does not sound fun having a show of glass fall down on you.

[LarryG]

I may not need bulb protection though, it kind of occoured to me that the shed won't have finished celings, and the lights will actually be recessed in the ceiling joists for the loft.

That's the situation I have. The edges of the diffusers are maybe 1/4" above the bottoms of the ceiling joists. In not quite two years in this building, I think I may have whacked an actual bulb once (didn't hurt it). I've never felt the need for bulb protectors.

Depending on how big your loft is, you may need to increase your fixture count in the area below it in order to get an adequate light level with a 7' ceiling (which is what my shop has, throughout).

[cabinetman]

I'm not too hot (pun) on using the protective tubes for the lamps. The ones I've seen don't cover the toombstones, and they are as likely to get hit as the glass part of the lamp. If the cover extends over the end of the lamp, it could be a heat problem, as those ends get hot.

Just for safety's sake, you could fabricate a makeshift guard of some wire mesh, like chicken wire, or welded wire, just to keep the open area of the lamps from accidental impact.
.

[dbhost]

That's the situation I have. The edges of the diffusers are maybe 1/4" above the bottoms of the ceiling joists. In not quite two years in this building, I think I may have whacked an actual bulb once (didn't hurt it). I've never felt the need for bulb protectors.

Depending on how big your loft is, you may need to increase your fixture count in the area below it in order to get an adequate light level with a 7' ceiling (which is what my shop has, throughout).

The plan is a 12x16 shed, with a 12x12 loft.

I am planning on 6@ 2x48" fixtures in the shop area as evenly spaced as possible, I am aware that the 4" area not under the loft is going to be darker.

The loft area will be lit with 2@ 2x48 fixtures hanging just below the ridge beam.

Prior to moving equipment in, the idea is to use the expanding foam insulation. (Found one that is fire code acceptable, no VOCs the whole shebang), wiring of course, and the interior surfaces except the floor will be bright white. (The floor will be painted a light gray.).The 3 walls not where the doors are will be fully peg boarded from 3' up. And yes I know there are guys that don't like peg board from an aesthetic point of view or whatever, but it is certainly hard to argue against its function...

An LG 18K BTU Air Conditioner / Heater Model LWHD1807HR is the candidate most likely to be chosen for climate control duties. I figure the combo / in window unit will take up less floor space than a Window unit / floor model heater... Anyway, so that is one window that will be taken up. Another window will be along the front wall (south) where the doors will be. So effectively only one window will be bringing natural sunlight into the shed.

The roof insulation / rafters, and floor joists for the loft will get a coat of bright white paint as well. The idea is to be as bright as possible, and as comfortable as possible.

Workbenches will get adjustable task lights. I am not sure what to call them, but the kind that has the flexible shaft, with a giant clip on one end, and a light on the other. I saw an idea in Wood Magazine a while back where a guy took and mounted one of them to a 3/4" dowel, he then rigged a block with a 3/4" hole and pins to fit in peg board. His flex light can be used anywhere peg board, or bench dog holes can be found... I figure that will give me ample mobility for clearing up any shadows that may interfere with my work...

[LarryG]

Six fixtures under the 12 x 12 loft area sounds about right. You might want to increase it to eight, so you'll have less reliance on task lights, which to me are just one more thing to have to mess with and delay me from doing what I'm really trying to do. To me it's simpler, and just as cheap, to simply boost the light level in the whole shop and be done with it.

Is the opening to the loft at the same end of the shop as the doors? I'm thinking about the backing and filling required to maneuver long stock through an opening that's only four foot long.

Is there some reason you MUST have only a seven foot ceiling over three quarters of your floor space? My previous shop had a six foot ceiling. It was almost intolerable. My current one has a seven foot ceiling. Better, but still far from ideal. The top of my assembly table is 21" off the floor, which is about where I want it (24" would be perfect), but even so this leaves only 63" of clearance to the ceiling joists. A project like a 48" tall bookcase leaves only 15" between its top and the joists, which is an awkwardly small space in which to run a sander or whatever. The same bookcase on a standard-height workbench has zero clearance; a 36" base cabinet has only 12" of clearance. It's a lousy way to work.

IMO a dedicated, perfect-world shop building should have at least a nine foot ceiling, preferably ten. I realize you're trying to make the best of a bad situation, but I would never build a brand-new building with anything less than eight feet of ceiling height. Well, maybe if I was exclusively a turner, a scroller, a chair maker, something like that. But for a shop that will deal with normal lengths of lumber, and sheet goods ... no. I'd give up some of the loft space first, or even do away with the loft entirely.

Compared to your current 8'-6" ceiling height, I fear you will find a seven foot ceiling frustrating. I live with it every day, and it's a PITA.