Router enclosure on saw table?

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  • Powercat80
    Forum Newbie
    • Sep 2007
    • 45
    • Austin, TX

    Router enclosure on saw table?

    In the past I have viewed threads that show some great pictures and ideas for router eclosures on table saws. However I am having a problem finding them on a search. If anyone can direct me I would appreciate it. Specificallly I want to build a stand that serves as the table support for the saw extension as well as provide dust collection and some storage for the router. Any ideas to inspire me?

    Thanks
  • dbhost
    Slow and steady
    • Apr 2008
    • 9245
    • League City, Texas
    • Ryobi BT3100

    #2
    BT3Central Articles has a mess of great stuff...

    At least in regards to wide bases / mobile carts...

    Adapting one of the cabinet ideas to be topped by a shop built router table top, and dropping a DC chute into the back should be a no brainer...
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    Comment

    • Tom Miller
      Veteran Member
      • Mar 2003
      • 2507
      • Twin Cities, MN
      • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

      #3
      Here's a link that I posted some time back of my router compartment/table extension/mobile base.

      Regards,
      Tom

      Comment

      • dbhost
        Slow and steady
        • Apr 2008
        • 9245
        • League City, Texas
        • Ryobi BT3100

        #4
        Tom,

        I haven't even thought of building my own base cabinet for my BT...

        Just didn't like the idea, I thought that they just weren't space efficient...

        But yours is just too good to be true...

        I am a bit curious about a couple of minor issues though...

        #1. What do you do for fence storage? Both rip and miter fence?
        #2. Where do you store extra blades, wrenches, etc? Is that what those drawers are for?
        #3. How are your router bits stored?
        #4. Did you ever add the miter slot / T track to the top / fence?
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        Comment

        • Powercat80
          Forum Newbie
          • Sep 2007
          • 45
          • Austin, TX

          #5
          Beautiful work!!

          Tom: That enclosure is fantastic and great workmanship. Gives me some ideas. I am making mine for a Unisaw with a 50" extension table, but I can certainly incorporate part of your design. Probably won't look like fine furniture as yours does though.

          dbhost: thanks for the reply. I went this route but did not find the picture I was looking for. I know it's in here somewhere though.

          Comment

          • Tom Miller
            Veteran Member
            • Mar 2003
            • 2507
            • Twin Cities, MN
            • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

            #6
            Originally posted by dbhost
            #1. What do you do for fence storage? Both rip and miter fence?
            Rip and miter fences hang from the wall when I want them out of the way, but you could easily make room for them on the base (maybe between the router compartment and the saw). Also, I added a storage spot on the back of the base for the sliding miter table. I tend to leave it off the saw when not in use, and made a filler piece for the table top as a place holder.

            Originally posted by dbhost
            #2. Where do you store extra blades, wrenches, etc? Is that what those drawers are for?
            Yep, that stuff goes in the bottom drawers, in addition to featherboards, ZCTPs, etc, etc.

            Originally posted by dbhost
            #3. How are your router bits stored?
            The two smaller drawers beside the router compartment.

            Originally posted by dbhost
            #4. Did you ever add the miter slot / T track to the top / fence?
            Nope. The router fence really works well connecting to the rails, and it allows me to use the microadjuster from my rip fence.

            Regards,
            Tom

            Comment

            • master53yoda
              Established Member
              • Oct 2008
              • 456
              • Spokane Washington
              • bt 3000 2 of them and a shopsmith ( but not for the tablesaw part)

              #7
              mine isn't pretty but very functional.

              I have extra miter slots one between the saw blade and the miter table and one on the router table. when I redo the whole thing this summer I am going to add one on the saw side of the router table as well as the outboard side. The miter slots are the ones that HF carry

              i run 3" RV hose to the router table which supplies adequate dust collection for the router table.

              I placed the fine dust filter under the saw because there isn't room in my shop to put it any place else and it makes a major difference in fine dust control especially during sanding operations. My shop is 12 wide by 20' long
              Last edited by master53yoda; 05-08-2009, 03:09 PM.
              Art

              If you don't want to know, Don't ask

              If I could come back as anyone one in history, It would be the man I could have been and wasn't....

              Comment

              • dbhost
                Slow and steady
                • Apr 2008
                • 9245
                • League City, Texas
                • Ryobi BT3100

                #8
                Originally posted by Tom Miller
                The two smaller drawers beside the router compartment.
                Sorry I was a bit unclear...

                Do you have drilled holders / rails for your bits, or are they cases stuffed into those drawers? I think a combination of those approaches might just work well for me. I currently have a Skil 30 piece 1/4" shank bit set, several purpose built MLCS 1/2" shank bit sets, a mess of individual MLCS bits (special profiles), and the 66 piece MLCS bit set scheduled to be coming my way. The 66 piece set from what I understand is in a rather handsome box, but the Skil set, and the loose stuff needs to be organized and protected separately.

                If you do have holder pockets for yours, is it possible that you might have some detail pics? Just digging for ideas on how this is done. I am thinking simply a drawer, with a cleat around the bottom to hold up some ply about 3/4" from the bottom so the entire thickness if you use 1/2" ply would be 1-1/4". Line up where the holes go, measure and mark the spots for each bit, and get busy on the drill press...

                I would assume that an actual 1/2" or 1/4" bore would be too snug a fit for corresponding shank bits. But how hard are say 17/32" and 9/32" drill bits to come by? Actually 9/32" not so hard, I have a few, the 17/32" might be a problem though... My concern is that if a drill bit is a couple of thousanths small, and the bit shank is a couple of thousanths large... you get the idea.. Not to mention expansion / contraction...
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                Comment

                • dbhost
                  Slow and steady
                  • Apr 2008
                  • 9245
                  • League City, Texas
                  • Ryobi BT3100

                  #9


                  Art,

                  That DC looks to be one of the older HF DCs... The 20 or so micron models...

                  Not sure if you have been following the threads, but unless you wheel that thing outside when using it, it is just pumping the ultra fines back into the air you are breathing...

                  While I am not sure it will fit, Rockler sells a shaker felt bag filter that captures down to 1 micron for less than $30.00, they say it fits the Jet DC650. It may work on that HF DC...
                  http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...ter=Dust%20bag

                  You can add the Wynn poly bag to the bottom, $12.00 for a pack of 10, and at least get some reasonable filtration going with that...

                  Just hoping to help protect you that's all. Be safe...
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                  Comment

                  • Tom Miller
                    Veteran Member
                    • Mar 2003
                    • 2507
                    • Twin Cities, MN
                    • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

                    #10
                    Originally posted by dbhost
                    Sorry I was a bit unclear...

                    Do you have drilled holders / rails for your bits, or are they cases stuffed into those drawers?
                    Nothing special, just several pieces of ~1" square stock about the length of the drawer with shank holes drilled every few inches. They're free-standing. If you have trouble finding a 17/32" bit, a 13mm bit is an even better fit. I probably have less than 50 bits, but twice that would still fit nicely in one drawer. Even though the MLCS boxes are pretty (they really are), I finally opted for the easier/quicker viewing and access. Then again, you could wall-mount the box....

                    To the OP -- if I had access to the right end of my saw, I'd have set up my router like Art shows. Food for thought....

                    Regards,
                    Tom

                    Comment

                    • master53yoda
                      Established Member
                      • Oct 2008
                      • 456
                      • Spokane Washington
                      • bt 3000 2 of them and a shopsmith ( but not for the tablesaw part)

                      #11
                      Originally posted by dbhost


                      Art,

                      That DC looks to be one of the older HF DCs... The 20 or so micron models...

                      Not sure if you have been following the threads, but unless you wheel that thing outside when using it, it is just pumping the ultra fines back into the air you are breathing...

                      While I am not sure it will fit, Rockler sells a shaker felt bag filter that captures down to 1 micron for less than $30.00, they say it fits the Jet DC650. It may work on that HF DC...
                      http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...ter=Dust%20bag

                      You can add the Wynn poly bag to the bottom, $12.00 for a pack of 10, and at least get some reasonable filtration going with that...

                      Just hoping to help protect you that's all. Be safe...
                      the fine dust collector runs continuous while I'm in the shop it is a 2 micron filter it moves 1500 cfm. the DC when I redo my shop this summer will actual exhaust out through a bank of 2 micron filters.

                      My logic on a DC is there purpose is to contain large size dust, without a fine filter in a shop there is a large amount of fine dust the main dust collector never gets. Fine dust requires high cfms to collect which the DC was never designed to collect. The HF dust collector actually only moves about 800 true cfm at the tool which is insufficient to pickup a large amount of fines. I appreciate the comments. that you made and intend to modify the DC when I mount it permanent. I have two babies in the family born in the last month and have a couple projects that I must finish before I can go back to making this shop work like I want (I've only been in this shop for 3 months.)
                      Last edited by master53yoda; 01-14-2009, 06:02 PM.
                      Art

                      If you don't want to know, Don't ask

                      If I could come back as anyone one in history, It would be the man I could have been and wasn't....

                      Comment

                      • pelligrini
                        Veteran Member
                        • Apr 2007
                        • 4217
                        • Fort Worth, TX
                        • Craftsman 21829

                        #12
                        Originally posted by dbhost
                        If you do have holder pockets for yours, is it possible that you might have some detail pics? Just digging for ideas on how this is done. I am thinking simply a drawer, with a cleat around the bottom to hold up some ply about 3/4" from the bottom so the entire thickness if you use 1/2" ply would be 1-1/4". Line up where the holes go, measure and mark the spots for each bit, and get busy on the drill press...

                        I would assume that an actual 1/2" or 1/4" bore would be too snug a fit for corresponding shank bits. But how hard are say 17/32" and 9/32" drill bits to come by? Actually 9/32" not so hard, I have a few, the 17/32" might be a problem though... My concern is that if a drill bit is a couple of thousanths small, and the bit shank is a couple of thousanths large... you get the idea.. Not to mention expansion / contraction...
                        You might check out this method. I've been intending to do this for my stacking router bit boxes.
                        Erik

                        Comment

                        • master53yoda
                          Established Member
                          • Oct 2008
                          • 456
                          • Spokane Washington
                          • bt 3000 2 of them and a shopsmith ( but not for the tablesaw part)

                          #13
                          Tom, I really like the looks of your setup I have been really agonizing over the trade off of the fine dust collector and the drawers under the saw. What Ive come to the conclusion is that I'm going to build the drawers into the out feed table that I've been working on. I saw it originally in a book but can't find the book now. the way the router table is mounted i can remove the whole thing form the saw in about 10 minutes for access to the saw components. I don't intend to change that portion of the design when i rebuild everything this summer . Also the bottom part of the saw is ported in to the fines collector and it helps keep it clean as it provides enough cfm to clear that area well. I don't try to dust collect large areas with the main DC due to the low cfm and high HP requirements that doing it with a DC requires.

                          Dust collection is my main background as I was a commercial HVAC designer prior to retiring. Much is expected of DCs in the small shop that they were never intended to do. I have greatly enjoyed the forums here in the last couple of weeks since i found this site.
                          Art

                          If you don't want to know, Don't ask

                          If I could come back as anyone one in history, It would be the man I could have been and wasn't....

                          Comment

                          • Knottscott
                            Veteran Member
                            • Dec 2004
                            • 3815
                            • Rochester, NY.
                            • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

                            #14
                            This one was an old vanity that I converted for use under my RT. It doesn't support the table...it's about 1/4" shy of the table. It's on wheels so I can roll it in and out as needed.
                            Attached Files
                            Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

                            Comment

                            • dbhost
                              Slow and steady
                              • Apr 2008
                              • 9245
                              • League City, Texas
                              • Ryobi BT3100

                              #15
                              Originally posted by master53yoda
                              the fine dust collector runs continuous while I'm in the shop it is a 2 micron filter it moves 1500 cfm. the DC when I redo my shop this summer will actual exhaust out through a bank of 2 micron filters.

                              My logic on a DC is there purpose is to contain large size dust, without a fine filter in a shop there is a large amount of fine dust the main dust collector never gets. Fine dust requires high cfms to collect which the DC was never designed to collect. The HF dust collector actually only moves about 800 true cfm at the tool which is insufficient to pickup a large amount of fines. I appreciate the comments. that you made and intend to modify the DC when I mount it permanent. I have two babies in the family born in the last month and have a couple projects that I must finish before I can go back to making this shop work like I want (I've only been in this shop for 3 months.)
                              I gotcha....

                              FWIW, if I recall Bill Pentz' web book, I think any 4" based system is going to be limited by the pipe to about 750 - 800 CFM anyway... I'm no engineer so don't quote me on that..
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                              Comment

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