Cleaning up and rearranging my shop. *LONG*

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  • dbhost
    Slow and steady
    • Apr 2008
    • 9232
    • League City, Texas
    • Ryobi BT3100

    Cleaning up and rearranging my shop. *LONG*



    I did this over a couple of weeks of mulling this over, sorry folks...

    This probably isn't going to be one of my more interesting posts, but I figured folks could get an idea of my thought process on cleanup, and setting back up, and maybe give me some ideas how to improve the situation.

    I have been spending a considerable amount of time cleaning up my shop lately. Mostly because I wasn't given a choice by Ike...

    You see the lumber I use for boarding up my windows is stowed on edge against the wall, behind my large tool setup, so everything got pulled into the middle of the shop floor, and of course things got taken out of their storage locations for repairs etc... since the storm, and generally speaking all is mayhem.

    Well, I noticed a nice nook of garage wall, between the front wall, and the beginning on the storage shelves, well the lumber aside from the window boarding material now lives there. Not the best solution, but one that works for me FOR NOW. This is certainly far superior in that it takes up a space of about 3 feet long x 2 feet wide, versus 10 feet long x 8 feet wide. (it kind of splayed out over time).

    The funky cubby hole is getting a thorough cleaning, and the lumber back there is being moved, the hunting equipment (Gambrel carcass lift, deer drag sled, etc...) Has been folded up, and stowed in a tote, and moved into the spare room for now. Will go in the bunkhouse on the hunting lease in two weeks, and then in the attic when it comes back.

    Once the Thien Cyclones are built for the 20 gallon trash can, and the 55 gallon drum, and tested to see which one I am happier with, I am going to sketch up, design, and build a shelf to go into the cubby to hold the vac directly over the cyclone barrel / trash can. as well as provide shelf storage for items displaced by removing the plastic sheving. A power outlet is already roughed in, and will be tapped from the utility room power to take advantage of an otherwise unused circuit, and it's GFCI protection.

    Some things I learned from moving stuff around from Ike are...

    #1. I need mobile bases, NOW. As most folks have read here, I have most of my big stuff on some kind of stand. The HF Band saw on its factory stand needs to be able to be moved. The sander, I need to install a mobile base on the HF tool stand to make it more mobile. The planer stand, same as the sander. I figure on putting them on Woodcraft Universal Mobile Bases, meaning the bottom will be filled with 3/4" ply. Kind of low storage, but I can keep some of my hand held power tools there, like sanders, jig saw, circular saw, rotary tool and bits, angle grinder. Basically anything without a plastic case.
    #2. I need to tear down the current storage shelves, tote up the sporting goods and store them in the attic, figure out a shed design, and get the BBQ stuff and yard care stuff into a shed. It took me WAY too long moving stuff around just to get the window boards out to where I could mount them up. When trying to finish that up, having a case of the flu, and wanting to finish packing clothes so I could get my family out of harms way, that was just a PITA to deal with...
    #3. Power. I need shop dedicated circuits run along the lengths of the wall just below the DC ducting, at least where I want the DC ducting to go, not where it is now... More on that later. I was forever having to drag an extension cord around. And yeah I know cordless tools eliminate that. I couldn't wait for recharging after every 10 minutes of use though. So far I have been VERY unimpressed with cordless tools.

    So, with my lessons learned through the storm, and through using the garage as a workshop, and knowing my budget, my plan is to...

    #1. Clean up, and tote up whatever is not shop stuff, yard stuff, or BBQ stuff, and get it into the attic for storage.
    #2. Build a second pair of saw horses, shorter than the first, to hold the canoe up. Move the canoe to the far side of the house, between the house and the neighbor's fence. Wrapped in a silver tarp to prevent U.V. damage to the boat.
    #3. Thoroughly clean, and dismantle the plastic shelving units. Some are pretty worn out, the good ones are going to go into the new shed once it is up, but for now, dismantle them, bind them up in a couple of large boxes, or use plastic twine to keep it all together and stuff it in the attic.
    #4. Remove wall mounted items between end of workbench, and interior door. Move the Mechanics tool box, floor jack, jack stands, oil drain, etc... to this location.
    #5. Add the needed circuits. Ike messed up my arrangements for the power project, I need to get that back on track, including running power down the middle of the garage ceiling, every 36" so that I have 5 rows of outlets that are switched. Total amp draw if I recall correctly for 10 4ft fixtures was under 10 amps. USE ORANGE OR YELLOW SOCKETS AND PLATES MARKED FOR LIGHTING FIXTURES ONLY. In case a future homeowner tries running a 15 amp saw with lighting in place on this circuit... You never know. Pull a fairly high amperage circuit down the outside wall where the power tools should reside. Most likely a dedicated 20 amp 110 circuit. Outlets every 3 feet, spaced evenly with the ceiling outlets if possible, 3' from ground height, GFCI protected. This will provide power to the 110v tools. This should suffice as I am NOT going to ever be running more than 1 power tool at a time. Run a 220v single phase circuit with two sockets about midway down the wall for a potential future bigger table saw, or a major motor upgrade on my band saw. (I have a 220v single ph 2HP motor that would drop in as a direct replacement if I had the power to drive it...).
    #6. Move all the tools benches etc... to the center of the shop. Cover them up with a drop cloth. Clean everything on the walls ceiling, and floors surrounding it, patch whatever isn't right sheet rock wise, prime it with Kilz2, and paint with Bright White semi gloss paint. (Glidden Semi Gloss Bright White, already have it).
    #7. I still need to figure out exactly what I am going to do with the floor. Chances are good, nothing. Probably just grab some of those rubber matts to stand on by each of the major machines, and the work bench...
    #8. Once the paint is dry, the DC system plumbing will be run along the right side (as seen from the front) wall, just above where the new electrical runs will be made. This will run the entire length of the shop wall, ending at a 90 degree bend just prior to a blast gate and a 20 foot hose out in the driveway for car cleaning...
    #9. Move the workbench, and auto tools back to where they came from.
    #10. Put all the lumber temporarily along the left wall.
    #11. Along the right wall, from the back to the front, put the...
    -BT-3100 with router accessory table modded to accept the snap in inserts from a HF router plate. (Working on picking up the saw from another member here, Ike messed up my original schedule on that, have the accessory table already. A friend of mine knew of my BT interest and found this at a yard sale without a saw. He paid $1.00 for it with the inserts. I bought him a beer for that...
    -Mod the planer table with extension tables with hinged wings so that the extension tables fold down, stow the planer table in the second spot.
    -Obtain floor model drill press, put that here. Obtain floor stand for bench grinder, put that next. Mount up new Ryobi 6" bench grinder.
    -Build in floor to ceiling cabinet, 24" deep for storing hand held power tools accessories and small jigs. I may provide more space between tools, not build this cabinet, but rather install peg board the entire length of this wall, and use hooks large enough to hold things in clamshell cases. Mostly things like my routers, router bit boxes, biscuit joiner, buffer, etc... Peg board mounting might make it easier to find stuff and put it back.
    -CM Band Saw.
    -Ridgid Oscillating Belt Sander.
    -B&D Firestorm Miter Saw on folding stand.
    -space for lathe. I am REALLY drooling over a Shop Fox 2Hp full size lathe.
    ****NOTE**** Any accessories that can be wall mounted, yet still easily accessible, should be wall mounted behind the related large tool, such as the saw blades and router bits in boxes should be mounted to the wall behind the BT. Drill bits in cases should be wall mounted behind the drill press, sanding sleeves and belts should be stored on wall mounted pegs (small piece of pegboard and pegs maybe?) behind the sander station etc...
    #12. Clamp storage needs to be re-assessed. IF at all possible, I want to build a rack similar to the one Suwat Phruksawan set up for his clamps. I need to figure out how to do this, AND allow for space to rack up 12 3/4" pipe clamps. (I don't have that many yet, but I have projects in mind that at LEAST 8 will be needed, but 12 would NOT be out of the question. Large china cabinet project for LOML...). The clamp racks will likely still be where they are now, but quite possibly they could end up on the wall with the other stuff if I can figure out how to make it fit.
    #13. With the smaller tools and toolboxes in the cabinet, or on the peg board, the underside of the bench can be used for long lumber storage. A rolling rack for sheet goods and smaller lumber will be built.
    #14. The garage door opener that failed 4 years ago, will finally be replaced in the left bay of the garage, and wiring run to the existing and currently unused box in the attic. (The wires are terminated, it's kosher).

    IF this works out the way I think it will, I SHOULD be able to manage the shop better, AND be able to use it as a garage on one side so that LOML can pull her car in and park... This is going to be an enormous amount of work, but I figure it will be well worth it in the long run.
    Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.
  • cabinetman
    Gone but not Forgotten RIP
    • Jun 2006
    • 15218
    • So. Florida
    • Delta

    #2
    Originally posted by dbhost
    This is going to be an enormous amount of work, but I figure it will be well worth it in the long run.
    You're right but you only live once (I think). Nice SketchUp drawing.
    .

    Comment

    • dbhost
      Slow and steady
      • Apr 2008
      • 9232
      • League City, Texas
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #3
      It has definately started...

      I spent several hours last night cleaning and clearing junk out and around. The nook is getting cleared out completely, the floor is clear. (I have a floor!), and the lumber is all stacked neatly against the far right front wall.

      This weekend, after certain events happen, hopefully anyway, I will finish clearing up the nook, throwing out the old rusted up, can't move a fastener with penetrating oil or a blowtorch bicycle, moving the good one, etc... The nook gets some minor sheet rock repair, and then.... on goes the paint in the nook, and the shelf gets built...

      I am not 100% happy with how the shop vac clears shavings out of the planer as I get blown back shavings that don't seem to even get to the dust collection chute. Not sure if this is a problem with the vac, or the planer. BUT... I am planning on sizing up the shelves to slide a HF DC with Wynn Filter under the shelf. That way I have room for growth...
      Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

      Comment

      • radhak
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2006
        • 3061
        • Miramar, FL
        • Right Tilt 3HP Unisaw

        #4
        Just in case you have any doubts (because of lack of responses), I am extremely interested in this thread. Just waiting-and-watching, as I'm sure others are too.

        Your sketchup drawing is amazing. Are you a graphics designer by day? I am still struggling to show a decent stub-mortise-tenon joint...

        But it's a bit too good too : I get a feeling your garage is already well set, what're you rectifying there? Maybe we need a couple of pics as-is, so we could see the 'before' before we see the after, which we shall see after, I hope.
        (okay - that sentence does make sense, I think )

        What did you say the dimensions of your garage are?
        It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it.
        - Aristotle

        Comment

        • dbhost
          Slow and steady
          • Apr 2008
          • 9232
          • League City, Texas
          • Ryobi BT3100

          #5
          Originally posted by radhak
          Just in case you have any doubts (because of lack of responses), I am extremely interested in this thread. Just waiting-and-watching, as I'm sure others are too.

          Your sketchup drawing is amazing. Are you a graphics designer by day? I am still struggling to show a decent stub-mortise-tenon joint...

          But it's a bit too good too : I get a feeling your garage is already well set, what're you rectifying there? Maybe we need a couple of pics as-is, so we could see the 'before' before we see the after, which we shall see after, I hope.
          (okay - that sentence does make sense, I think )

          What did you say the dimensions of your garage are?
          One of my degrees is in digital imaging. So yeah, graphics software isn't a problem for me. I am actually a sysadmin, which means I tend to have a bit of time while waiting for progress indicators :0P...

          I've never measured the full width and depth of the garage, but I have from the bump in toward the house. The ledge is 2 feet deep full width, which is why the bench is 24" deep... The nook is 30 inches deep and 42 inches wide.

          I believe the main flat area of the garage is 18x18 feet or so... I used to have a 2000 Ranger standard bed, standard cab (16.7 feet) that BARELY fit. I had to touch the bench with the front bumper so I could get behind the truck to close the garage door. The F150 is too wide from mirror to mirror to fit in the doors. So I have to assume 7 foot doors x 2 = 14 feet, + 2 feet on the right side of the right door, 1.5 feet for the center post, and .5 feet for the left side for a total of 18 feet.

          My current shop setup is pretty basic right now. Everything is against the left wall, the back wall, and in the nook.

          Left Wall tool layout.


          Back Wall tool layout, please ignore the mess.


          Nook setup with Thien Cyclone.

          There are four issues I am working on solving.
          #1. I want to eliminate the 90 degree bends in my dust collection tubing. I am close to the limits of what my shop vac DC system can do, and even with a dedicated DC, I want as straight of a shot as I can get to keep airflow up.
          #2. The garage has been pretty abused as a rough storage area for years, and it needs sheet rock repair and fresh paint, this is an excuse to make it bright and fresh.
          #3. I currently do not have sufficient electrical power supply into the garage. I want to run proper electrical for safety reasons.
          #4. I want LOML to be able to park her car in the garage.

          I actually have a newer version of the sketchup drawing, where I added universal mobile bases, and moved some things around, such as put the lathe at the end instead of the band saw, and left a gap where the water system is (I have a reverse osmosis system with water softener in my garage, if you saw my water prior, you'd know why). I am not quite done with it though, so I won't post it yet. It should be good. In this one, the shop vac setup only handles the work bench, I have a HF dust collector rig handling the big tools. (I want to keep the high static lift for sanding operations).
          Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

          Comment

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