Ideas for Scroll Saw Stand

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  • SARGE..g-47

    #16
    Plenty of leg room there. Coxy. Any problem with vibration when you have whatever you use when in the up-right position?

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    • coxy
      Forum Newbie
      • Mar 2006
      • 6

      #17
      Nope...no vibration. The legs are off a fold up table. They are shorter than the saw table top so this allows the front of the table to be lower than the back.

      Randy

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      • SARGE..g-47

        #18
        Got to the modification last night on my SS stand, docrowan. Basically took what I had and got after it with a Bosch barrel grip. Decided I need a foot rest after sitting in front of it.. so I went to a double caster in front. I removed the tank for the vacuum and shaped the sides to give plenty of let room.

        I was getting the slightest vibration on setting 8 (highest), but the 2nd caster in front took that out. Stayed with the addition weights mounted on a 3/4" pipe attached to a pipe flange on the base. I also raised the rear of the saw about 1" to give an approximate 6 degree slant to the front to see the cut line as mentioned by several.

        It all worked out well and I couldn't imagine a better set-up even though there may be one...

        Regards...
        Attached Files

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        • docrowan
          Senior Member
          • Mar 2007
          • 893
          • New Albany, MS
          • BT3100

          #19
          Sarge,

          That is perfect!! Beautiful work, makes me feel like a slug for not building mine yet. (Well, I've been out of town since Monday.)

          How do you control racking? I've been concerned about that, since I'd like to make mine out of some 3/4 ply I've got cluttering up my shop. I figured on ripping up a piece of 2x4 to make some triangular glue blocks to stiffen the frame.
          - Chris.

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          • SARGE..g-47

            #20
            You probably do need to re-enforce if you're going to use ply, Chris.. In my case I make most tool cabinets.. assembly tables and just did a new top on my work-bence three week-ends ago with good ole southern yellow pine which is plentiful and cheap in Atlanta.

            I didn't even bother to rabbet or use a joint other than a butt joint in the case of the SS stand. Just butted the 1 1/2" to 1 1/2" after laying a center line of glue. Then drill 3 pilot holes the width (12") of the stand and anchor it down with 3 each of 4 1/2" - 5/16" lag bolts. It won't rack under those circumstances.

            Good luck with yours when you get to it. Mine is where I want it now so I'm glad all this came up since I have been thinking of the mod for about 6 months. Just been up to my nece in projects and decided to take the half day to do them. Good thing as I just came up from sizing and ripping side panels.. face frames and wooden runners for a chest on chest I'm doing. Should see the jointer latter this evening.

            Regards...

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