Ideas for Scroll Saw Stand

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  • docrowan
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2007
    • 893
    • New Albany, MS
    • BT3100

    Ideas for Scroll Saw Stand

    I would like to build some sort of a base, stand, or cabinet for my scroll saw. I know I want something I can sit at, so I'll need to either get my legs under it, or easily straddle it. I was considering something triangular to straddle. I'd also like to stow the scroll saw in/under it when it's not being used.

    Any thoughts?
    - Chris.
  • 182much
    Forum Newbie
    • Jan 2008
    • 92
    • Norco, CA

    #2
    Got me to thinking

    I wonder if you could modify a sewing cabnet?

    Comment

    • docrowan
      Senior Member
      • Mar 2007
      • 893
      • New Albany, MS
      • BT3100

      #3
      Funny you should mention that, but I happened to see my wife's sewing machine last night and was struck by how similar it is to a scroll saw. However, most of the time on a scroll saw you run your work head on to the machine, whereas on a sewing machine you run your work through the side of the machine.
      - Chris.

      Comment

      • LarryG
        The Full Monte
        • May 2004
        • 6693
        • Off The Back
        • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

        #4
        Reading your request, I remembered seeing this scrollsaw stand in a WOOD Magazine special edition some years back. You can download the plan for only three bucks (although the provided photograph should make the details of construction evident, and you'll likely need to massage the dimensions to fit your saw anyway).
        Larry

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        • Uncle Cracker
          The Full Monte
          • May 2007
          • 7091
          • Sunshine State
          • BT3000

          #5
          Having something that was all one piece to sit on/mount the saw to has pros and cons. You will definitely want something that is heavy enough to keep it from walking around, as the vibration from the saw will make it want to do that. The addition of your body weight will help that, but it also means that you might be annoyed by the transferrance of the vibration into your backside...

          Comment

          • docrowan
            Senior Member
            • Mar 2007
            • 893
            • New Albany, MS
            • BT3100

            #6
            Originally posted by Uncle Cracker
            Having something that was all one piece to sit on/mount the saw to has pros and cons. You will definitely want something that is heavy enough to keep it from walking around, as the vibration from the saw will make it want to do that. The addition of your body weight will help that, but it also means that you might be annoyed by the transferrance of the vibration into your backside...
            I didn't word my original post clearly - I wasn't thinking of actually building a seat into it, but to build it so I could straddle the business end easily while sitting on a separate stool or chair. The stand that LarryG pointed out from WOOD magazine accomplishes this by being very narrow. Good idea.
            - Chris.

            Comment

            • DUD
              Royal Jester
              • Dec 2002
              • 3309
              • Jonesboro, Arkansas, USA.
              • Ryobi BT3000

              #7
              I have an RBI scrollsaw on a wheelchair base, from them. It can't be used for any other

              job, But it works well for what it is intended to do. Mine has 4 legs, and wider in the

              front, it narrows slightly at the back. Bill




              Last edited by DUD; 06-04-2008, 01:13 PM. Reason: left off link
              5 OUT OF 4 PEOPLE DON'T UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS.

              Comment

              • RayintheUK
                Veteran Member
                • Sep 2003
                • 1792
                • Crowborough, East Sussex, United Kingdom.
                • Ryobi BT3000

                #8
                Here's the stand supplied by the maker of my Hegner scrollsaw:

                Click image for larger version

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                They make it triangular for best stability and reduction of vibration. This one is made to be stood at, but it may give you an idea - the single leg could be at the front.

                Ray.
                Did I offend you? Click here.

                Comment

                • SARGE..g-47

                  #9
                  Three point stance to elmiinate problems with uneven floors... heavy as Uncle Cracker mentioned to absorb vibration (about 80 lbs. before the Scroll saw will do nicely).. you can straddle it as I do.. but no built on seat as that takes too much room.. dust collection on-board just for fun.

                  I use a stool with the legs cut to just right for the sitting height and can be stored anywhere you have room. Add mobile as I used large casters when designing to determine the "just right" height. You could taper to the front to make it even narrower there. I went wider to accomodate a small vacuum I had. You are only limited by your imagination~

                  Add a large "tricked out" decal to boost aggressive cuts in thick hard-wood.... your "good to go".. Grrrrrrr..... ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..

                  Southern Yellow Pine in it's finest hour....

                  Good luck...
                  Attached Files

                  Comment

                  • docrowan
                    Senior Member
                    • Mar 2007
                    • 893
                    • New Albany, MS
                    • BT3100

                    #10
                    Sarge,

                    SWEET! Beautiful job!

                    Kind of what I've been thinking about after reading some of the previous posts, although I think I will make mine a little narrower in front. I'll also be considering the tricycle "landing gear". I can see the value for an uneven floor, but my floor is flat and stable and I plan to make this as compact as possible. I might have add "dead" weight to the bottom, depending on how much it winds up weighing. Thanks for the ideas.
                    - Chris.

                    Comment

                    • SARGE..g-47

                      #11
                      Originally posted by docrowan
                      Sarge,

                      SWEET! Beautiful job!

                      Kind of what I've been thinking about after reading some of the previous posts, although I think I will make mine a little narrower in front. I'll also be considering the tricycle "landing gear". I can see the value for an uneven floor, but my floor is flat and stable and I plan to make this as compact as possible. I might have add "dead" weight to the bottom, depending on how much it winds up weighing. Thanks for the ideas.
                      I would have gone triangular in front as mentioned.. but didn't to accomodate the vacuum. If I did build another (about a day lost for build and paint) I probably would just for extra leg space. But what I posted for and is not shown in those pictures concerns the weight you mentioned...

                      The SYP weights in around 20 lbs. without the saw. You got around 40 (guessing) with the saw... Still not heavy enough to control a DW 735 at full speed and the vibration is carried over to the cut. Now here's where Southern Yellow Pine at it's finest must meet Southen Shade-tree Ingenuity at it's finest.

                      The base has a top that lift off with rabbet joints on the peri-meter so the vacuum can be accessed to change filters. Being the total package weighs a mere 40 + lbs. at this point.. we add qty. 5 of 10 lb. old throw away concrete with rubber coated barbell weighs. Now we have 90 lbs. plus and the saw won't vibrate even with an assist from a hurricane.

                      As they say down in southern Louisiana... I gua-ran-tee! Pass dat pot of hot. boiled craw-fish son. Sorry.. I couldn't control myself..
                      Last edited by Guest; 06-04-2008, 05:25 PM.

                      Comment

                      • docrowan
                        Senior Member
                        • Mar 2007
                        • 893
                        • New Albany, MS
                        • BT3100

                        #12
                        Good point about the weight. I was mindful of what you said in your previous post and I thought of making a box between the castors to hold sand, concreter, or some other high density cheap material. I'm trying to balance a number of factors, because I have a specific place the stand needs to fit, I want to store my saw and a tool box in the space under the work surface, I want it mobile, but be able to make it rock solid during use.

                        Oh, yeah, I want to make it all out of scrap stock so I don't have to spend any money on it.
                        - Chris.

                        Comment

                        • jonmulzer
                          Senior Member
                          • Dec 2007
                          • 946
                          • Indianapolis, IN

                          #13
                          You might also think about tipping the saw forward for better visibility so you don't have to hunker over it to see your cutline.
                          "A fine beer may be judged with just one sip, but it is better to be thoroughly sure"

                          Comment

                          • SARGE..g-47

                            #14
                            Originally posted by jonmulzer
                            You might also think about tipping the saw forward for better visibility so you don't have to hunker over it to see your cutline.
                            An excellent idea you have Jon, as I had considered doing just that after using mine. A simple wedge placed under the rear feet mounted to table in my case would take only 30 minutes to cut or install.

                            Or.. I happen to have a 2 x 12 x 12 left over from making a new work-bench top several weeks ago. I was considering abandoning the little cheap vacuum (it's on it's last leg) on board and building the same base with more taper to the front as has been already discussed.

                            I will be assembling an already finished product today and will have about a week between cure time on the finish and the next one. That may be a good way for me to stay out of trouble... well a least for one or two days max as that's all it should take to do it.

                            Comment

                            • coxy
                              Forum Newbie
                              • Mar 2006
                              • 6

                              #15
                              Heres mine...
                              Attached Files

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