220 to 110 volt change

[Black wallnut]

sorry tried to find something to show you what i mean

from http://www.dotznize.com/electric/?a=sh



There are some restrictions on the use of multiwire branch circuits, including these (2002 NEC 210.4):

"All conductors must originate from the same panelboard."
If a multiwire circuit in a "dwelling unit" supplies "split-wired" receptacles, a means must be provided to disconnect both ungrounded conductors simultaneously. This can be done with a two-pole switch, but usually it is done by tying the handles of the two circuit breakers together.
The same simultaneous disconnection requirement also exists if the circuit supplies a mixture of 120v and 240v loads (whether or not in a "dwelling unit"), but the disconnection means must be the "branch circuit overcurrent device" (the circuit breaker).

So to answer your origional question you may split the wires to either two outlets or a single outlet, but I think you will need to keep the outlets in the same box and keep the disconnecting means tied together. I have to dissagre with you here,SORRY. You need to replace the double pole with 2 single pole breakers of the same rating.This is the only both circuts will be protected.

No need to be sorry as this is really important stuff. It seems to me, and I am not an electrician, NEC says the disconecting means must be tied together. I am also not an electrical engineer but a double pole breaker will trip if either leg or both legs have a serious over current issue just as a single pole breaker. I am also pretty dang sure that the reason behind tying the disconnecting means together is so that someone will not flip off one breaker, and then get electrocuted by the second live circuit in close proximity to the first. If the NEC meant that tying the disconnecting means together was optional then they would have written should rather than must. Perhaps the cleanest and potentially safest way is to leave the wiring in place, wire-nut the ends, turn the beaker off that feeds the removed device and run new wire utilizing the Range space to install a sub-panel for the shop and then label at the main panel "shop." If there are other devices on the same circuit as the removed device you really have IMHO no choice but to just cap these wires and place a cover over the junction box containing them. If I am wrong about a double pole breaker's ability to protect two circuits at the same time I would find it helpful if someone could correct me along with the source of their information.

[Crash2510]

the reason they say you should leave the disconecting means together is because in a shared neutral situation you can still be shocked by the neutral when only one branch of the shared circuit is turned off. Because the other breaker could still be under load. often this is overcome by installing to single pole breakers tied together like a tandem breaker. It is not unsafe, but it is best to be careful.

I would recommend installing a small subpanel if you have any reservations about doing this shared neutral situation. If you are not far from your panel abandoning the wire and installing new to your garage may be best. 6/3 wire nm in a small lug only panel on a 60 amp breaker would be your best bet.

i originally wanted to point out that shared neutrals are not taboo and are in fact frequently used on large commercial jobs, but for some they may not be a viable option. Just make sure whatever you do it is properly recorded in the panel and the receptacle box so anybody in the future can also know what you did.

black walnut they use handle ties to tie two single pole breakers together these give individual protection while still causing both circuits to trips at the same time


as seen here
http://ecatalog.squared.com/pubs/Cir...271-834-01.pdf

[reddog552]

Let me clean this up.The best options for Russianwolf would be to put a subpanel on the vacated 50 amp range ckt.Second the baseboard is probably fed with 12/2 or 10/2 this should be put on 1 single pole breaker not split up into 2 ckts as this would leave no viable neutral

[rnelson0]

You shouldn't bother with the 220. Splitting it up will work, but you don't get that much utility out of it - especially if it's used elsewhere. Running a sub-panel is not that difficult and gives you more utility. Even if you only use two 15A circuits, you have the option to add more later. And remember, the 50A load on the sub-panels main breaker is based on the active load. You could wire 100A back to it, but so long as you're never using more than 50A concurrently, it won't trip.

In a shop, you'd probably be better off with 20A circuits. This way you could run two tools at once and if the load spikes (motor turns on, gets stuck, etc.) you won't trip the breaker. Remember, don't put a fridge or freezer on the same circuit, or you may trip the breaker and lose some food.

I just added three 20A circuits to my garage. It took me two or three days (1-2 hours a day) to run conduit, 6 hours to run the wire, then another two or three hours over a few days to terminate the jacks. Putting the breakers in the panel took less than 10 minutes but I had to do it on the weekend so that I had light to work with - hard to see what you're doing when you flip the power out

It sounds intimidating, but it's not. Just remember that, like anything else, planning is 90% of your work. If you know where the wire is going, take all precautions while running the wire (i.e. don't scratch the insulation!), and test everything before you turn it on, you can do it without hurting or killing yourself. Pay careful attention to the ground wires so that touching the panels doesn't shock you. If you happen to live in Richmond, VA, I'd be glad to help.