Building my shop

[Iansaws]

I am in the middle of building my new shop and could use some advice. I am starting with a newly constructed 16' x 24', 2 story "barn" and am using the bottom floor for the shop (the upstairs will be for storage and whatever else the LOML wants to use it for). I have just finished roughing in the wiring and insulating the walls. Now I am trying to decide what to use to cover the insulation. At first I had decided on fire-retardant "sheet-rock", which sells for about $7.50 for a 4 x 8 sheet at Lowes, since the walls are right at 8 feet high, I figured I needed about 22 sheets. My plan was to tape the seams and stop there...no mud or paint..it is a shop after all. After talking to a few friends though, other options have emerged such as using pegboard up high and 1/4 inch plywood down low. This would have the advantage of being more sturdy and functional than my first option. I plan on having about 1/2 of the wall space as a 48" high workbench area with my drill press, band saw and miter saw mounted in these areas. I also have a BT3100 with a router table to place centrally and will of course have an assembly table. Any thoughts on the wall material, design and construction would be greatly appreciated.

[LCHIEN]

wall being 1/2 pegboard and 1/2 ply sounds like a good idea, 1/4" ply would not be my choice for the bottom, you might want to go 1/2" ply or even use OSB (cheaper) if the looks don't bother you.

48" high workbench or did i misunderstand? That's a bit high somewhere between 30 and 36 more like it. As I've become older its easier to work on detail operations on a higher bench but if you have large or heavy objects a lower bench is nice.

Also did you place your electrical outlets high or low? In living spaces usually they are about 1 foot/18 inches off the ground but in a shop you might find them more useful at 36 to 48 inches off the floor.

[Uncle Cracker]

Half the wall space would be 40 running feet of bench, which is a bunch. But unless you plan to work on stilts, I, too, think you'll find the 48" bench height a bit much. However, with that much bench to work with, you might consider a small section at the 48" height (for those projects you want to get real close to) and then do the rest at 30-36".

Plan your outlet height carefully, to coincide with your bench height. You may want outlets both above the bench, and a couple below (for shop-vacs, compressors or other tools that might reside plugged in below the bench). Personally, I like to use surface mount multi-outlet strips along the back edge of the bench, which leaves the wall space free for tool hanging, particularly since you are considering pegboard. Another good location for outlet strips is under the front cross-member of the bench, pointing down. This location will keep cords for hand tools from being strung across the top of the bench, where they might get in the way, and still leave the leading edge overhang of the bench clear for clamping, etc.

Just my $0.02, as your needs may be different. You are doing right by thinking it out thoroughly beforehand.

[Iansaws]

More details

You are both right about the bench height, I am not sure exactly what height I will use, but I do want something as high as a countertop...something like 34 to 36 inches high depending on what is most comfortable for me. The length will be probably be something closer to 32 feet. The outlets that I have placed are 48 inches high (that is where I got the 48 inch figure from) and there are 5 or 6 of them where the counters will be and they are on a separate circuit with appropriate amperage for bench top power tools. I also have 4, 10 outlet power strips that I will either mount on the wall or as suggested on the front side on the counter. I also plan to put a vacuum system that will run the length of the counter for each tool and for the table saw. My assembly table/workbench will be much lower than the wall counters and will hopefully be adjustable when I build it. Additionally, there is an area where I plan to put a desk fo some type and here I have lower mounted outlets on a separate circuit. For lighting I am using T-8 fluorescents. I have 2 in there now (I plan 1 or 2 more) and the lighting is amazing. One of my next steps is to paint the plywood floor white to lighten it up even more. I am undecided as to whether I should insulate the ceiling between the floors. The upstairs will not be heated or cooled anytime soon, so there will be thermal loss through the floor, but I like having the ceiling open right now.

[Pappy]

Even 32' sounds like a lot of counter top area to me. Floor space can get to be a premium quickly, especially if you are working on a large project. Add a desk area, work bench, and assembly table in the mix and the problem is worse. Keep in mind possible future tool purchases/upgrades like a band saw, larger drill press, lathe in your layout.

Plan more lighting than you think you need and consider putting it on 2 switches to add extra light when you need it. Also consider adding task lighting like track lights over the counter/benches.

If the top floor is insulated, thermal loss through the floor shouldn't be a big problem if the decking is T&G. If not, lay some cheap sheet flooring over it to provide a seal.

[docrowan]

I chose to go with 1/4 white pegboard from floor to ceiling. No paint, no problems matching thickness of wall materials, plenty of reflected light, and those holes on the bottom 4' do come in handy at times. However I used regular brown pegboard in one section which is where I hang my garden tools. Keeps dirt from the tools from showing as bad.

Also, I built my bench 39" high. I'm 6'0" and have fairly long legs and arms. My BT3100 is mounted on a temporary rolling cabinet and slides just under the bench. My shop is 12'x20' and the bench takes up the back wall of the shop, in other words 12' long.

[Uncle Cracker]

Good mention on the lighting, Pappy. One slick idea I saw in a friend's shop that I liked was a series of twin-tube fluorescents, mounted in pairs side-by-side, and wired with one set of fixtures on one switch, and the other set on a separate switch. For normal lighting, one switch was on, and when more light was needed, the second switch was thrown, bringing on the second set of lights alongside the first set. Twice the light, from the same locations. You needed sunglasses in there. Neat.

As for the ceiling, you will have to make the call on whether to insulate, but if you don't, I would at least leave it set up so that you can easily add it later if you discover that you need it. Also, I would recommend that you put in some tyvek or visqueen (or roofing felt) under the upstairs decking (particularly if it's planks), so that you do not have to deal with dirt, dust, insects, or roof leaks finding their way through cracks in the flooring and ending up on your tools and projects downstairs.

[eccentrictinkerer]

I'm just finishing my shop and I used 1/2" OSB on the walls. I was going to sheetrock, but the OSB at the BORG was $6.72 a sheet and rock was $7.32!

I primed and painted with semi-gloss white. Now I can drive a screw or nail wherever I need to hang something. And it doesn't look too bad either.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I'm just finishing my shop and I used 1/2" OSB on the walls. I was going to sheetrock, but the OSB at the BORG was $6.72 a sheet and rock was $7.32!

I primed and painted with semi-gloss white. Now I can drive a screw or nail wherever I need to hang something. And it doesn't look too bad either.

Yep. 4x8 3/8 or 1/2" drywall was around $6.30 per sheet today. 15/32 OSB was $5.30. I am using OSB. No worries about poking holes through the wall with long stuff, more options for hanging light items that dont need stud support, easier to remove and reset. It DOES soak up paint so be warned on that.

Note : 1/4" OSB is more expensive than 15/32" or whatever local thickness is for local sheathing codes, so make sure you get the cheaper, thicker and better 15/32".

[JR]

I'll question the amount of bench space, too.

The one reason I could see for having a long bench is if you planned to have a RAS or Miter Saw embedded in the bench. That would enable lots of infeed/outfeed space. Apart from that I'd prefer smaller benches that are more task-specific.

JR

[Uncle Cracker]

I'll question the amount of bench space, too.

The one reason I could see for having a long bench is if you planned to have a RAS or Miter Saw embedded in the bench. That would enable lots of infeed/outfeed space. Apart from that I'd prefer smaller benches that are more task-specific.

JR

That imbedded miter saw stuff wouldn't work for me... I would have to clear off 30 feet of bench every time I needed to cut off a board...

Rod Kirby I ain't...

[eezlock]

building my shop

I think if I were doing the shop...like you are doing now, I would install 1/2"
plywood from the floor up to 48" height and white finished pegboard from the
top of the plywood to the ceiling. The plywood back at that height would
give a good strong secure wall that you would not have to worrry about
if a machine or material gets bumped into it once in a while, also it would make a good backwall behind the worktable/ workbench/ assembly area.

A 48" tall workbench?....I read that and thought you probably meant to say
that the backwall above the bench would be 48" from the floor, the top of the workbench probably around 34"-36" in height, that is unless you are 7'
tall!

Pappy brought up some good thoughts about the lighting....the more the better in my opinion, and have them grouped where one switch would control
say 2 or 3 each. For certain tasks, a halogen over that area would really put out the light (also some heat too) but is a good bright light!

As to the outlets...have them where they are easily reached from the work area without having to bend over to get to them and plenty of them.
Separate circuits for dedicated tools, and a remote switch for the tablesaw
and dust collector that are triggered together when the saw turns on.
Have the electrician dedicate all tool outlets on 20 amp circuits for the
110 volt equipment...you'll be glad you did in the long run!
Just some of my ideas...hope this helps.....eezlock

[Iansaws]

Lots of great suggestions

Thanks for everyone’s input so far. Today I priced 7/16" OSB at HD at $4.98 for a 4 x 8 sheet. That would let me do all walls in OSB for $100. Pretty cheap IMHO. I would paint it white of course and hope it doesn't soak up too much paint. I am now considering this option and using the peg board (over $12 a sheet) a little more sparingly or precisely. I will of course have to put some spacers between the peg board and the OSB but that’s not a problem. My only worry with the "pegboard only areas" option is the air tightness of it or lack thereof. Any comments on this? The ceiling in the downstairs is the floor upstairs and is T & G, so that helps. Still might insulate it though.

The lighting will all be T8 fluorescents and each will have its own switch (a pull switch) as well as a master switch at the door. The outlets for the bench tools are on a dedicated 20 amp circuit...maybe even 2 circuits with GFI's of course. The lights are on their own circuit as well and there are 2 other circuits for various uses like outdoor lights and an AC unit.

As for the large bench area, I have been convinced that I may not need that much. I do like the idea of a dedicated miter saw area, but I am not sure I have that much room. My biggest concern is that I tend to clutter whatever counter space I have with whatever junk I have. I'm sure this shop will be no different. So I may go with a smaller bench along the 16 foot wall with the window in the middle. I'd like to build some enclosed storage under the bench for smaller power tools and such, just not sure whether to use drawers or cabinets with hinged/sliding doors. I also really like the idea of sliding my TS under the bench to give more space when not in use. Don't know if I can have both though.

Thanks again for everyones suggestions. I will post some pics soon if anyone is interested. It doesn't look like much now, but it will get better.

[LCHIEN]

a couple of late comments.
You don't want all you bench space along the wall, I think you will want some benches in the middle where you can access from all sides.

Also, I think you may regret having pull chains on all your light fixtures. It will be something you snag long boards on when ever you turn around. I like The ideas given of having every other light on two different switched circuits, you can run at half or full levels and have redundant lighting.

As for the holes in teh pegboard affecting insulation, it doesn't seem that should be a problem, if your insulation pretty much is good it should stop all airflow thru the wall, the last 1/4" shouldn't make that much difference. I guess one worry is, if you use a lot of insulation stuffed behind the pegboard, will it be damaged by or affect the ability to use the peg hooks?

[Iansaws]

Shop Evolution

Here are some pics from my new shop as I am building it. Thus far I have insulated the walls and installed 9/16" OSB and pegboard as a covering. Right now I am working on the shop cabinets that will wrap around the top 21inches of the workspace just above the pegboard. My plan is to use 5/8" plywood for cabinet doors for dust control. I will be painting all the OSB and the floor white for lighting purposes and I would like to stain and polyurethane the cabinets with a light color or leave them natural. I am using some really beautiful pine on the cabinet ends with some amazing birdseye patterns that I don't want to cover up with paint.