220 Volt Power Supply

[jackellis]

Now that I've pulled the trigger on a new, 220V cabinet saw, I need to add supply from the main panel. My tools have to sit in the middle of the garage because every inch of wall space is in use. as a result, I'm in the market for one or more retractable electrical cords that are acceptable for 220 volt power. Tried a Google search and came up empty for that voltage level, though there are plenty of 110 volt cords and reels.

Can anyone recommend a source for 220 volt compatible retractable power cords?

[LCHIEN]

quite honestly I don't think you should use a retractable cord for a major power tool. 110 or 220V.

If you are going to have an overhead outlet, I'd have a custom made cord 12 ga. with a tie point near the top end to attach to the ceiling next to the plug and make it just long enough to reach the saw.

[cabinetman]

Having a stationary tool away from the wall always presents the cord problem. I don't like cords or rigid conduit hanging from the ceiling.

On occasion I have used a stranded 12 gauge wire (loose) and wired one end to the tool, and the other end plugged into the wall where a 220V receptacle can be mounted. I like the idea of being able to unplug the tool if necessary. A good grade of extension cord can be used for this. If one is bought with both ends (M + F) the tool can be simply plugged into it. A 25 ft can be usually bought for under $20. Whether the whole 25 ft is needed is discretionary. A track can be laid over the cord on the floor to protect it.

[LarryG]

Jack, I would suggest you do as I just did with my PM2000. It came with a power cord that was about 5-1/2 feet long (and no plug -- this is typically for 240V machinery). I bought 15 feet of 12/3 cord at Home Depot (roughly $1/ft) and wired it in, replacing the factory cord, and put a plug on the end to match my outlet. Took about 20 minutes.

I don't have a chart in front of me but if memory serves, for a 3HP motor a 12ga cord can up to 25 feet long.

[jackellis]

I'd do this another way if I could, but one wall is all shelves; a second wall is all cabinets; and the third is for furnace, water heater, residence entry and secondary exit.

I suppose I could build a track to cover the cord. Alternatively, we had a shelf that hangs from the garage rafters installed when we bought the place. It's situated between half and three quarters of the way ack from the main garage door. I could build a "false column" down from it where I can install an outlet that's close to the tool.

Thanks for the suggestions.

[LarryG]

I could build a "false column" down from it where I can install an outlet that's close to the tool.

Or just use conduit and a surface-mounted box (unless you would object to its semi-industrial look).

[jackellis]

Larry, thanks for the idea. The industrial look is no problem.

I do wish I could arrange things differently but we can make this work.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I did what Larry suggests. Conduit down to floor with outlet.

Loring makes a great suggestion as well. You would run 12/2 over to a ceiling junction box that has the metal mesh that hold the flexible cord that would hang from the ceiling. These fixtures are a bit expensive and not real easy to find in my experience.