1/2" pipe OK for air lines?

[lago]

I am getting tired of stumbling around the compressor and hose reel plus moving it to an outlet whenever I need it.

I have a spot where I can locate it and run no more than 10' of pipe. I use it primarily for brad nail gun and stapler.

Would 1/2" black pipe be OK? Also, where can I get valves and also a short line to hook the compressor to the air line.

TIA

Ken

[Tom Slick]

1/2" black pipe would work great. my local ace carries everything needed to make your own airline.

[LCHIEN]

I am getting tired of stumbling around the compressor and hose reel plus moving it to an outlet whenever I need it.

I have a spot where I can locate it and run no more than 10' of pipe. I use it primarily for brad nail gun and stapler.

Would 1/2" black pipe be OK? Also, where can I get valves and also a short line to hook the compressor to the air line.

TIA

Ken

Most valves (Someone check me here) will work for water or air equally well, so check the plumbing dept.
Your compr. is probably equipped with 1/4-NPT fittings so you would want a short flex hose (probably sold with the air tools) like 3, 5, or 15-ft
with 1/4NPT males at both ends and then transition from 1/4NPT to the pipe.

[LarryG]

ShopNotes issue no. 90 (Nov 2006) contains an excellent article on plumbing a shop for air; you might want to try to get your hands on a copy. The article focuses on using copper but has a sidebar in which the pros and cons of a black iron pipe alternative are discussed.

For your short hose, just cut a couple-three feet off your existing hose and get the necessary fittings for a buck or two apiece at HD/Lowe's/etc.

[scorrpio]

I got a short hose (3') from HF - it connects my reel to the compressor.
If I were making a rigid line, I'd probably go with 1/2" copper, but black iron is ok too - it should be able to hold the pressure nicely. Most ball valves are fine - I would not use other kind. Look for a 'WOG' raiting (water, oil, gas) - like 'WOG600' meaning good to 600psi.

Why would I use copper? Cause it is a lot easier to work, and modify - If I decide that I need to add another 'T' in the middle of a black iron run, I need to disassemble everything 'downstream', take the pipe to HD to be cut and threaded, , and then reassemble everything back, which means cleaning out old tape/dope (I tend to use both), applying new, testing for leaks, etc etc etc -a great deal of headache. On copper? About 10 min to cut out a section, ream, clean, and sweat in a new tee. If I can shift either pipe end, I cut out 1/2" and put in a tee directly. Otherwise, I use a 'tee-nipple-slip coupling' method.

[ejs1097]

Don't foget to add a filter close to your compressor to help keep moisture out of your tools.

Some like to use 3/4" pipe to get more air volume, but for 10' I don't see the need.

[4estgump]

I used 3/4 thin wall pvc. Much easier to work with. I have outlets along the wall about every 8ft. It runs from my Garage to my shop in the basement. I keep 125lbs. pressure on it all the time. Have bleeder valves along the system for water excape. Have pressure regulator in the shop for what ever pressure i want. Its been there 7 years with NO leaks.

4est

[jessrice]

PVC is not recommended compressed gas/Air. I am sure others will come along and tell you the same thing.

It can explode and shatter violently, send plastic sharpene all over the shop. I believe in additionto the overall stress of the pressure, the oils from the compressor can weaken the pipe and cause it to explode.

Others will probably post similar comments, but you may want to google PVC compresses air and see what comes up

Jesse

[lrogers]

Be sure you put a low point drain in your line. Ball valves work very well and are inexpensive.

[LarryG]

PVC is not recommended compressed gas/Air. I am sure others will come along and tell you the same thing.

More than just not recommended, OSHA prohibits its use in commercial workplaces. My understanding is that it's not so much a matter of the PVC being able to withstand the air pressure, but that the violent shattering you mention can occur under impact loads to the pipe (i.e., accidentally bumping it with a 2x4 or whatever).

http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html

[LCHIEN]

its the Compressed gas failure mode of PVC that's dangerous. Failing metal pipe will just split. PVC will shatter and send shrapnel all around the shop.
Any compressed gas (air, gas, oxygen etc) stores lots of energy from the compression (water does not compress much).

So PVC is OK for water under pressure.

[scorrpio]

I got this filter/oiler from HF, and it seems to work well. It is attached rigidly to the compressor.
This 3ft lead hose goes from the filter/oiler to the hose reel.

For ball valves, depends on how many you need - I buy valves from PEX Supply. 3/4" full-port solder valves are $9 each at HD, and $5.65each or 4.75each (if you buy a box of 10) at PEX.

I would be nervous with a PVC air line. But if it worked for 7 years...

[sacherjj]

If it worked for 7 years, it might have aged the plastic enough to make BAD things happen.

I'm going 3/4" copper for mine with 1/2" drops. It is only on one wall, so the cost isn't that bad. I didn't like the extra weight and rusting of steel pipe. I've purchased the material, but haven't had a chance to put it in yet.

[momo44]

PVC for air lines......Dangerous

Previous posters are right. Using PVC for compressed air is not only recommended, it is dangerous! First off, PVC is rated for liquid pressure (noncompressible), not gas pressure (compressible). It will explode when it cracks, sending chards of pvc in all directions.
I have two customers that had PVC lines where this happened. One opened a valve and the shock wave blew out every line he had - over 300 ft! Had he been looking at the line when it blew out, he may have lost his sight. As it were, he only suffered minor abrasions.
The other customer had lines blow out on two elbows. It tore all the insulation off and created a depression in a sheet metal wall.
For our small shops, black iron, copper or galvanized pipe is a much better alternative.
If you can find and afford it, you can use an ABS pipe that is made for compressed air. It glues like PVC, but is not brittle, so it splits rather than explodes.

[LinuxRandal]

I was told that the fine for pvc pipe is around $10,000. I was also told by someone else, if (at least my local) building/fire inspectors, find them in new construction (room/garage additions, anything needing a permit) that they will shut you down, because pvc melts and fans the fire.


There are only two types of plastic pipe that are allowed for compressed air. One is a certain mixture of pex (pex-al-pex, I believe), the other is a color coded abs (to specify it is gas rated).