Electrical Sub-Panel.. ??

[ssmith1627]

Sounds like a plan Sarge. I don't think there would have been any danger in what you had in mind......separating the two sides and using one for the ground bar and one for the neutral bar. But it's a very good point that as you filled up the box you would fill up that neutral bar and not have the spots you needed.

The neutral bar needs to be floating inside that box and not bonded to anything else except the neutral from the main panel. The ground bar needs to be bonded to the box itself and to the ground from the main.

What you're going through is the only way I learn anything......you have to hear people say the same things over and over a little different way until it all makes sense to you. I never want to proceed with anything until I have that comfort level in my own mind that I know all the steps I have to go through to get the job done -- especially with something electrical like this. I probably make things a lot more complicated than they have to be but it's the only way the stuff sinks into my thick skull ! haha

Steve

[sbs]

http://ths.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/w...726007600.html

[SARGE..g-47]

Thanks Steve and SBS...

Larry G (Sparky) was absolutely on target with his call of both were a neutral bar bonded from side to side. I have a cousin that owns an electrical supply about 18 miles from my home. Had to go to a have in-office surgery this morning about 6 miles short of there, so I just drove over when finished.

Ron pulled my GE panel from stock and opened it. He explained it precisely which to those that know is self explanatory. Those two neutral bars are bonded by the strap and both sit on plastic backers which do not ground them to the box. There are two threaded holes to the right side of the box where the ground bar attaches. Ah... haa...

I left with a $1.25 ground bar and a total feeling of I finally understand how the panel box works and why! I will not need a main breaker in that sub panel as per Ga. code. The ground bar that is now installed is grounded to the box itself and no additional ground anchored is needed since it does not run to an out building. It's actually about 3" feet of #6 run from the main to sub where the lead 60 A breaker will carry it to the sub.

I am going to hook it all up with the exception of the actual final connection. I pulled in a marker ( I built his first born a baby crib years ago.. ha.. ha...) and he will drop by Sunday night to make a final inspection before attaching the two hots to the 60 A in the main and flipping to ON.

So.... thanks again to ALL who shared here. With any kind of luck us non-Sparkies have learned something here without having to call 911 and explaining the tree-top level flames to the First Lady without the ole "they must have mistakenly put flight fuel in the charcoal grill lighter fluid, sweet-heart" diversion. The problem with marrying an intelligent woman is they seem to see right through your BS! ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha...

Regards...

[SARGE..g-47]

Had this puppy wired by 5 PM.. Ron came by to-night instead of the planned tomorrow so he could be free for Easter. My wiring was correct thanks to you guys and you know who you are! Again... thanks fellas......

Up and running from the sub panel by 10 EST... And now to assemble a Penn State Cyclone sitting in 8 boxes scattered through-out the shop in what my wife hopes to be the final piece of the puzzle before I retire from purchasing tools. Actually.. she knows better after all these years. ha.. ha...

Regards...