Saw oriented the wrong way?

[jcrenick]

When using my saw it works great for most cuts. However to trim down wider boards I struggle and making miter cuts I believe my blade is angled the incorrect direction.
My questions
1)Standing behind the saw as if feeding stock my fence is usually to the right of the blade. I am right handed. When making a miter cut the blade angles towards the fence shouldn’t it angle away so that the cut off does not “rest” against the spinning blade? Is this the advantage of a left tilting saw?
2)In my shop (see attached) I have a garage door on the end where the saw is located. The small wall next to the door causes me a problem when trying to rip anything wider than 15” and longer than 6’. I could just pull the saw out from the wall but space is tight. Is there a better layout I should consider? (switch the saw to the opposite side or rotate it 180 degrees)
3)The switch of the saw seems to be on the wrong side. Shouldn’t the switch be located to the left side of the saw to make is easier to reach? For example when ripping a 2x4 I have to either start the saw then position the board or reach over the board to start it. Both seem less than optimal. Do most of you just move the switch?

Thanks for any advise.

[Russianwolf]

1)do a search on "left tilt" you'll likely find more than you ever wanted to know.

2). can't rally comment.

3). I start the saw the position the wood. I want both hands in contact with the wood at all times. I pretty aware of where the spinning blade is most of the time (read, I still have 10 fingers intact). After cut, right hand slaps the kill switch.

I recently got a craftsman version of the BT3000 that has a two button switch. I REALLY dislike it and bought a 3100 switch to replace it with. The cover/slap panel on the 3100 switch is a HUGE improvement over the early switch on this saw.

[drumpriest]

I had a BT, now a PM2000.

1. The BT's fence and rail system is such that if properly aligned, you can move it to the other side for bevel rip cuts, and the manual suggests it. (or the accompanying video, can't remember) The PM2000 is a left tilt, and it's a nice feature.

2. I would suggest making the table saw as central as possible in the shop, giving adequate space in front of and behind it. I personally have ripped 4x8 sheets down on the BT, but I wouldn't suggest it. Most of the time I rough cut a bit oversized with a circular saw, a good freud blade, and an edge guide, then finish cut on the table saw.

3. I didn't really think about this until I upgraded to the PM2000. The switch on it is on the left side, and I do find it to be generally easier to reach. The exception is when ripping somthing very wide, where I would typically find the right mounted switch better. Moving it might not be a bad idea, but I didn't. And honestly, I didn't have THAT much trouble when I used it. One thought is to remove the switch cover and make a kick switch, so that you can turn the saw off hands free. The PM2000 switch is large enough for me to do that with my thigh, and I've found it's much safer.

[LarryG]

1. Short version, +1 on what Mike and Keith said. Slightly longer version, IMO if you use hold-downs for beveled cuts, as you should, blade tilt becomes mostly a non-issue.

2. For long, narrow shops, positioning the table saw as you have it, with the right end against one of the two long walls, is usually the best choice. I agree with Keith that moving it "down the page," to equalize the infeed and outfeed areas, would likely result in a better overall arrangement.

3. IMO the BT's switch could be better located, and IIRC others here have said the same thing. During a normal cut it's manageable but if you needed to shut the saw down quickly, a left-side placement would be better for most people and for most cuts.

[JR]

I have a similarly sized shop. My BT is currently oriented with the left side against a wall. I do not like it that way. You have it in the correct orientation.

If you don't have an easy-to-use mobile base under your BT, you should get one. I have one and it is a two-second problem to move the saw the one or two fee necessary to free up some room.

JR

[drumpriest]

I have a fairly small shop (1 car garage sized at best), and used to have a TINY shop. Regardless, I've designed around NOT moving the TS. Almost overything in my shop is mobile, and many things get moved, but I find the TS is such an essential tool that moving it all of the time would be a pain.

TS, BS, and Lathe are all fixed position, everything else is mobile.

[dgcoles]

Keith, can you provide a layout of your shop? I think it would be helpful to see. Thanks.
-Dave

[havighurst]

I purchased an 18amp switch from Highland Woodworking and mounted on the left side. I now have a switch on both sides. It is a big improvement for me and required no additional wiring.





http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/i...OD&ProdID=6662

[drumpriest]

Here is a rough idea of what my shop is like. I didn't go measure things exactly, but you should get the ideal....There are lumber storage racks above the drum sander and planer, as well as one for shorts above the lathe. Sheet goods are purchased as needed, and stored behind the SCMS and DP. The wall by the assembly table has shelved and clamp rack storage, as well as some peg board.

[Black wallnut]

Looking at your layout I wonder if you could possibly rearrange things. Is your sheet storage on wheels? If it is could you move it to where the storage cabinet is? Then you could place your table saw so that the blade is centered in the space, giving you a full 10' infront and behind the blade.

I've not had issues with the location of the switch.

You also seem confused on the difference between bevel and miter. Bevel is where the blade is tilted and miter is where the workpiece is at an angle other than 0° or 90°. 0° being rip cuts.

You might also consider making a sawcart that has an adjustable tray that the saw sets on. Pictures and explaination available upon request.

[jcrenick]

- I have considered moving the saw towards my bench but like having open space around the bench. That open space is usually my assembly area.
- My sheets good rack is fixed to the wall on one end. Imagine it as a door hinged in the corner. With this set up I can pivot the "door" out from the wall to make it easier to get at. I store sheet good on end 4' side down 8' vertical.
- I used the wrong term, you are correct on miter vs. bevel.
- Saw cart? Please provide details. I am curious.

[drumpriest]

A miter would be a 45 cut diagonally across the grain. A bevel would be a 45 that runs the length of the board along an edge. A miter would be used to make a frame, for instance, where as a bevel would be used to make a corner cabinet. If that helps.



This is a bevel project.

[Black wallnut]

- I have considered moving the saw towards my bench but like having open space around the bench. That open space is usually my assembly area.
- My sheets good rack is fixed to the wall on one end. Imagine it as a door hinged in the corner. With this set up I can pivot the "door" out from the wall to make it easier to get at. I store sheet good on end 4' side down 8' vertical.
- I used the wrong term, you are correct on miter vs. bevel.
- Saw cart? Please provide details. I am curious.

Saw Cart = picture below. I'll try to dig up some updated pictures and link to my writeup.



Keep in mind you could make one a whole bunch smaller. My saw is mounted on a tray with hinges so it can pivot up for cleaning and also on drawer ball bearing guides so that it can move side to side.