Router table/cabinet ideas

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  • Greg in Maryland
    Established Member
    • Nov 2006
    • 250
    • Montgomery Village, Maryland
    • BT3100

    Router table/cabinet ideas

    Hi

    I am just in the early stages of planning out a router table/cabinet. To give you a general idea, I am going to build a table with an enclosed base, using plywood and other miscellaneous material I have around the house. It will be mobile, with plumbing for dust control (for a vacuum) both top and bottom side, electric hookup for the router, vacuum and lights with various switchs. I haven’t focused on a fence yet, but I suppose it will be homemade. There may or may not be some drawers or shelves for storage. I may add some blue neon running lights, lifters and neat pin striping for that tricked out look ....

    I have a ¼ inch Ryobi router (non plunge) and will use the BT3100 accessory kit router plate. I am going to make either a miter slot or a t-slot into the top (any opinions, one way or the other?). My thought is when I can upgrade, I’ll get a new router and a lift and table top, but for now this what I have and what I need to work with.

    I’ve searched many websites for examples and have some good ideas. However, I was wondering what this august group thinks about their router table/cabinets. What did you do right? What did you do wrong? What do you like best about your table/cabinet? What do you like least? What can’t you live with out?

    I would appreciate it if you didn’t focus on this nifty thing from Incra or Freud or Woodpecker as do not have the funds nor the indulgence from my wonderful wife to spend $100’s on this.

    Thanks for your input!

    Greg

    Ps If you have any links to good sites, they would be much appreciated!
  • MikeMcCoy
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2004
    • 790
    • Moncks Corner, SC, USA.
    • Delta Contractor Saw

    #2
    I don't do the quality of work a lot of folks on this forum puts out but I've learned a few lessons over the years. Probably the best lesson I learned was to finally quit over thinking things. I've had a really intricate,way over planned router table that looked like a million dollars but was a pain in the rear for a lot of reasons. Right now I'm using a table top that I got on close out at Woodpeckers and my fence is a jointed 2x4 that I bury a bit in. Amazingly, it does just fine. That doesn't really answer your queston but you reminded me of my many hours of trying to figure out a harder way to do things.

    Comment

    • Thom2
      Resident BT3Central Research Ass.
      • Jan 2003
      • 1786
      • Stevens, PA, USA.
      • Craftsman 22124

      #3
      This is the one I had been looking at for quite some time, I just really liked it for some reason ....

      http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/sto...questid=229140

      After literally years of planning on using that plan, I suddenly find myself taking a different approach to the design ..... but I still wish I would have built one of those to start with.
      If it ain't broke.. don't fix it!!!... but you can always 'hop it up'
      **one and only purchaser of a BT3C official thong**

      Comment

      • Greg.B
        Established Member
        • Feb 2006
        • 166
        • Joppa, Maryland
        • Ryobi BT3100

        #4
        Here are some things I would do if I were to build a table.

        1) I wouldn't bother with a base plate. Rather I would mount the router directly to the underside of the table. I have found that most base plates will flex. (I use the aluminium from rockler to solve that problem, but its $50.) Plus it serve's no real purpose to have a baseplate that come outs.

        2) Don't go crazy about a fence. I watch the "Router Workshop" guys all the time. The fence they use... a piece of Poly that they clamp down using c-clamps. And these guys do some nice routing.

        3) I would make the top nice and big. Say 32" wide x 20" deep. It helps to have some room up there, and there is no reason not to.

        4)For the top whatever material you use, double it. What I would do is make basically 2 tops. For the lower one cut out a say 6" x 6" area so you could mount the router on the top. Then glue them together using tons of clamps. This will 1) help it not to warp, help it not to sag, and give you a solid surface. Most tables are 1 1/8th + thick.

        The rest is up to you.

        Check this out.

        http://www.oak-park.com/
        Former Member Name - JohnnyTest

        Comment

        • Greg.B
          Established Member
          • Feb 2006
          • 166
          • Joppa, Maryland
          • Ryobi BT3100

          #5
          Maybe someone can chime in on how to laminate it. Most guys use 3/4" mdf doubled and then laminated. Then just nail on some trim for the edges.
          Former Member Name - JohnnyTest

          Comment

          • lcm1947
            Veteran Member
            • Sep 2004
            • 1490
            • Austin, Texas
            • BT 3100-1

            #6
            Sorry I can't give you a link to go to but if you can look at the April 2005 issue of Popular Woodworking you will see a router fence that you can easily make. The reason I know this is I made it! I've seen a lot of fences but this one I just really really liked for some reason so was bound and determined to make it and I did. As far as tables there's dozens out there and you just have to hunt until you see one that you can afford, able to build and like. I chose one that is in the book by American Woodworker, " Woodworking with the Router " by Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack. I really encourage you to buy this book if not just for the router table design itself but for the excellent book it is. Anyway good luck in your search and do show us when you get it made. You could look and see mine in the Finished projects forum if you'd like before buying the book though. As far as the table top I used two pieces just like mentioned but I choose to copy a suggestion by Loring and simply screwed the two pieces together. The bottom was 3/4" plywood and the top 3/4" MDF that has the white finish on it already. It isn't as long lasting as if you laminated it but seems to hold up for me so far course I haven't used it a lot either. Laminate would be best though I know. I just didn't want to mess with it at the time what with the table and fence and all but wished I had now and probably will end up redoing it whenever mine starts showing signs of use. The main thing though is take your time and enjoy building it. I rushed and really didn't enjoy it as much as I should have. Heck, that's what this hobby is all about - enjoyment. Right? Have fun.
            Last edited by lcm1947; 12-27-2006, 05:43 PM.
            May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, Mac

            Comment

            • Greg.B
              Established Member
              • Feb 2006
              • 166
              • Joppa, Maryland
              • Ryobi BT3100

              #7
              http://www.patwarner.com/router_table.html
              Former Member Name - JohnnyTest

              Comment

              • linear
                Senior Member
                • May 2004
                • 612
                • DeSoto, KS, USA.
                • Ryobi BT3100

                #8
                I used a (free) scrap of countertop material that was cutout for a sink. I put two shallow slots in the bottom and glued in two 3/4" MDF panels for sides. I glued on a 1/4" plywood back to stop any racking. Then I did like Greg.B and mounted my fixed base router right to the underside. I went through with the biggest bit I had after making a pilot hole with a smaller one. My top is about the size Greg.B likes, and I like it too.

                My fence is two strips of MDF glued and screwed together at right angles, after jointing the edges square. I have been meaning to add dust collection to the back of that, but not done yet.

                If you get your MDF from the cull bin at BORG like I do, this thing can cost under 5 bucks to build and get you doing router table stuff in very short time, which will leave you time to contemplate all the features you want in your ultimate table. My ultimate table keeps getting pushed back in the queue somehow, because the 5 dollar table works pretty well. Adding a switched outlet would jack the price up about another two or three bucks.
                Last edited by linear; 12-26-2006, 11:48 PM.
                --Rob

                sigpic

                Comment

                • mikedude
                  Forum Newbie
                  • Apr 2005
                  • 53
                  • St Augustine, FL, USA.

                  #9
                  Pics

                  I'm almost finished with a router table/table saw side by side that I found photos of somewhere on the internet and copied. Once I get done I will proudly display it for all. Here are the photos I used for my design. They are small so sorry about that. Perhaps it will help.

                  I built mine on the cheap with mostly lumber I had on hand. The router table top and fence is melamine (low cost), with a router plate insert, T-Track, and miter tray from Rockler. I think I paid around $60 for all of that. Also a router remote Start/Stop switch, Rockler had it on sale for $15 bucks. So you definitely don't have to spend a lot on this.

                  Please don't make the mistake I did and put your T-track in the table. Put it at either end of the table and flush or below. When I work with longer pieces at the router they catch on the T-track/ cut in the melamine board which potentially can ruin what you are working on. Feel free to post any questions and good luck!

                  Mike St Augustine, FL
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by mikedude; 01-09-2007, 05:01 PM.

                  Comment

                  • eezlock
                    Senior Member
                    • Feb 2006
                    • 997
                    • Charlotte,N.C.
                    • BT3100

                    #10
                    router table...

                    Greg, If I were building my first one again...I would make it a simple as I could
                    and not complicate things. A large flat, smooth table, with a square fence that locks down where you put it is more important than anything else.

                    Sometimes/most times.....simple is BETTER. It is better to start simple, see how you like it...later on change what you don't like and work from there.

                    As far as track(s) go....a simple straight miter channel track is best for the
                    tabletop, and t-track is best for fence for attaching featherboards, stop blocks, etc.

                    If you use a dust collection/ extraction port, mount it on the back of the fence....hooked to a shop vac...it will get 95% of the dust and chips
                    colleted there.

                    Do your bit adjustments from below the table for a while and see if you really
                    need a lift plate ....later upgrade but not necessary...I don't have one
                    on mine and the routertable works just fine without it!
                    My .02 worth....eezlock

                    Comment

                    • Warren
                      Established Member
                      • Jan 2003
                      • 441
                      • Anchorage, Ak
                      • BT3000

                      #11
                      I'm a believer in simple and functional. I use the basic table from Oak Park with their vacuum plate for the router. Very functional, but no bells and whistles. Does all that I need a table mounted router to do. It allows as much accuracy as you are willing to put into the setup.
                      A man without a shillelagh, is a man without an expidient.

                      Comment

                      • John Hunter
                        Veteran Member
                        • Dec 2004
                        • 2034
                        • Lake Station, IN, USA.
                        • BT3000 & BT3100

                        #12
                        I built the Kreg router table you can get the plans on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-V06-DVD-R.../dp/B0007VYL3Y
                        John Hunter

                        Comment

                        • WoodButcher26
                          Established Member
                          • Mar 2006
                          • 167
                          • Dayton, OH

                          #13
                          I built a 24x32 table out of melamine MDF 15 years ago, and still using it on a daily basis. No fancy insert, just hang the router from the top. I use an old Incra-Jig for a fence positioner, works great but wish I had a split fence for eaiser setups. I put a slot in the top parallel to the front for jigs, have only used it a couple of times and wish I had done without. I did put three small drawers in the cabinet for bits and tools, I wish I had made room for three more. A remote switch is an absolute must. Reminds me, about time for a new table...


                          Kim
                          Measure it with a micrometer...
                          Mark it with a crayon...
                          Cut it with a chain saw!

                          Wood Butcher

                          Comment

                          • Pappy
                            The Full Monte
                            • Dec 2002
                            • 10453
                            • San Marcos, TX, USA.
                            • BT3000 (x2)

                            #14
                            Mine is a modified version of the NYW Router Station. Dust collection is fairly good except when routing dados. Biggest changes I made to the design were in the drawers/storage.

                            Click image for larger version

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                            The plate has been changed to a Woodpecker Plunglift since these pictures were taken. Worth the investment.
                            Don, aka Pappy,

                            Wise men talk because they have something to say,
                            Fools because they have to say something.
                            Plato

                            Comment

                            • THyman
                              Established Member
                              • Feb 2005
                              • 315
                              • Atlanta, Georgia, USA

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Pappy
                              Mine is a modified version of the NYW Router Station. Dust collection is fairly good except when routing dados. Biggest changes I made to the design were in the drawers/storage.

                              The plate has been changed to a Woodpecker Plunglift since these pictures were taken. Worth the investment.
                              Pappy,

                              That is a beautiful router table. Can you tell me how big is it and can you post some more pictures showing the drawers and storage areas. what type of wood did you use for the cabinet and did you use the same materials for the table top as detailed in the NYW drawing?

                              Thanks,
                              Todd
                              War Eagle!

                              Comment

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