Roller Stand?

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  • bsyris

    Roller Stand?

    Hi All,

    Has anyone made their own roller stands for use as an outfeed, or generally holding up their material at the saw/drill?

    I'm wondering if there are reasonable plans out there, and if it makes sense to make a couple rather than buy them.

    Thanks,
    Bob
  • DonHo
    Veteran Member
    • Mar 2004
    • 1098
    • Shawnee, OK, USA.
    • Craftsman 21829

    #2
    You might check the New Yankee workshop plans. On one show Norm built a tool stand, a "parts" trolly and a roller stand. His roller stand had either 3 or 4 rollers and looked very handy. On the other hand sometimes Sears and/or HD have sales on either roller stands and work supports that make them cheaper than you could make a stand for.
    You can see some "cheap" very light weight roller stands at HF and Cummins tools, I'd pass on those as they might actually cause more problems than they solve.

    DonHo
    Don

    Comment

    • LarryG
      The Full Monte
      • May 2004
      • 6693
      • Off The Back
      • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

      #3
      This doesn't answer your question, exactly, but most of us who have tried a variety of support stands find that the Ridgid Flip-Top stands, available at Home Depot, are just about the best thirty bucks one can spend in a workshop. Considering how well these work, and after subtracting the cost of materials for a homemade stand, I personally wouldn't spend the time to build one.
      Larry

      Comment

      • Tom Miller
        Veteran Member
        • Mar 2003
        • 2507
        • Twin Cities, MN
        • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

        #4
        Have you decided on rollers for sure? For stock supports like this, I just use a flat surface, rather than rollers. Cylindrical rollers have a preferred direction for stock movement (which may not be lined up with your preferred direction for stock movement), and the roller balls don't support narrow stock. A flat surface that's finished with poly, etc. and wax is plenty slippery.

        I haven't made any free-standing ones, but I've made some that clamp to the edge of benches, etc. I can give more info if you're interested.

        Regards,
        Tom

        Comment

        • Hoyden
          Established Member
          • Jan 2005
          • 122
          • Twin Falls, ID, USA.

          #5
          Originally posted by LarryG
          This doesn't answer your question, exactly, but most of us who have tried a variety of support stands find that the Ridgid Flip-Top stands, available at Home Depot, are just about the best thirty bucks one can spend in a workshop. Considering how well these work, and after subtracting the cost of materials for a homemade stand, I personally wouldn't spend the time to build one.
          The flat surface will not lead the cut board off line or bind like a roller.
          PawPaw

          Comment

          • gsmittle
            Veteran Member
            • Aug 2004
            • 2788
            • St. Louis, MO, USA.
            • BT 3100

            #6
            Originally posted by LarryG
            This doesn't answer your question, exactly, but most of us who have tried a variety of support stands find that the Ridgid Flip-Top stands, available at Home Depot, are just about the best thirty bucks one can spend in a workshop. Considering how well these work, and after subtracting the cost of materials for a homemade stand, I personally wouldn't spend the time to build one.
            What Larry said. I'm going back for more when I have some spare cash.

            g.
            Smit

            "Be excellent to each other."
            Bill & Ted

            Comment

            • LCHIEN
              Internet Fact Checker
              • Dec 2002
              • 21069
              • Katy, TX, USA.
              • BT3000 vintage 1999

              #7
              there's some relatively inexensive troller stands out there, I would thoink making your own, esp. if you have to buy rollers or ball bearings, would be much more expensive and less satisfactory.

              I find these pretty good, $25-35 sometimes on sale for around $20 each...

              Crawford WM5 Work Mover Stand



              ball bearing rollers and heavy enough to stay in place, easily adjustable and folds away neatly.
              Loring in Katy, TX USA
              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
              BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

              Comment

              • SARGE..g-47

                #8
                Like Larry, I prefer the Ridgids. I have 4 of the Ridgid flip-tops and like clamps, you always end up one short. The good news is they're relatively cheap. Like Tom, I really prefer a friction surface with 3 coats of poly sanded down as I use on my TS side and rear extentions.

                I had a problem with rollers when ripping some 16' stock by myself several years ago. The stock wanted to move on the out-feed rollers like a greased pig sitting on a ball bearing. We are talking "hello kick-back" if the stock moves and jams the blade or fence. Got rid of the rollers and probably will never get more.

                Wait.. got one down in the shop as a gift. Anybody wants it, come get it. No charge if you pick it up.


                Regards...

                Comment

                • bsyris

                  #9
                  Guys, thanks for pointing me at the Rigid stand. I'll be sure to take a look this weekend.

                  Comment

                  • lcm1947
                    Veteran Member
                    • Sep 2004
                    • 1490
                    • Austin, Texas
                    • BT 3100-1

                    #10
                    I agree with Larry and the others. The Ridgid is hard to beat. I have two of them and two roller types and never use the roller ones anymore accept for the chop saw. The Ridgid's were rated as the best overall support stands out there in their 2005 tool guide. I use mine for the DP, BS and TS. I do use the roller ones for the chop saw as I mentioned but that's about it for them. I've not needed the Ridgids for the router table yet but probably will when called for. A good solid stand in my opinion.
                    May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, Mac

                    Comment

                    • MilDoc

                      #11
                      I also have the Ridgid's, but do wish they were a bit heavier. In a few cases they managed to tilt while in use. And, no, they were adjusted a bit low to avoid this. Or was that wrong?

                      Comment

                      • LarryG
                        The Full Monte
                        • May 2004
                        • 6693
                        • Off The Back
                        • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

                        #12
                        A heavy workpiece can indeed try to tip the Ridgid flip-stand over, but if anything the typical roller stands are even worse in this regard. I have a Shop Fox roller stand, bought cheap off eBay, that appears essentially identical to the one Loring pictures, and very much like those Harbor Freight and the woodworking stores like Woodcraft sells. It weighs about the same (at a guess) as the Ridgid but is less stable due to the narrower "stance" of the legs. Overall, the Ridgid remains the best thing I've found.

                        I've been meaning to make up a couple moderately heavy sandbags, maybe 10 or 15 lbs each, to drape over the legs of my support stands and sawhorses. Another item on a long list of things I've get to get around to ...
                        Last edited by LarryG; 09-22-2006, 07:27 AM.
                        Larry

                        Comment

                        • SARGE..g-47

                          #13
                          As Larry, I find the wider legs stance very stable compared to others. JUst make sure the flip top has a light touch with the stock. I haven't had any problems with tip as I "dry run" before I make an actual cut. If I have a stand that even remotely appears it will tip, I take precaution in advance.

                          Nylon cord with a 6" dowel tied to one end and a loop tied to the other end. Walk to the weight bench in my basement behind the shop and get a 10# weight. Thread the cord thought it and put an S hook on the looped end. Attach the S hook to the main stem of the Ridgid and good to go.

                          And of course, put everything back in it's place when done so I can find it next time I look. ha.. ha...

                          Regards...

                          Comment

                          • RodKirby
                            Veteran Member
                            • Dec 2002
                            • 3136
                            • Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
                            • Mao Shan TSC-10RAS

                            #14
                            I don't like roller stands - tend to want to "direct the workpiece".

                            I've been very happy with this:

                            Downunder ... 1" = 25.4mm

                            Comment

                            • MilDoc

                              #15
                              Originally posted by RodKirby
                              I don't like roller stands - tend to want to "direct the workpiece".

                              I've been very happy with this:
                              Uh, Rod, what is that?????

                              Comment

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