New DIY Router Table – purpose built

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  • siliconbauhaus
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2006
    • 925
    • hagerstown, md

    #16
    k...I think I've got it..bugger I wish you had a photy from the back
    パトリック
    daiku woodworking
    ^deshi^
    neoshed

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    • siliconbauhaus
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2006
      • 925
      • hagerstown, md

      #17
      Rod,

      Am I correct in thinking that the fence is attanced to that top peice and the whole thing slides back and forth ?
      パトリック
      daiku woodworking
      ^deshi^
      neoshed

      Comment

      • RodKirby
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2002
        • 3136
        • Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
        • Mao Shan TSC-10RAS

        #18
        Originally posted by siliconbauhaus
        Rod,

        Am I correct in thinking that the fence is attanced to that top peice and the whole thing slides back and forth ?
        I'm sorry - in my attempt to get a better pic, I made it worse. You're supposed to be telepathic!

        That "thing" at the front is just to enable the fence to be reset (after changing bits) - imagine it isn't there.

        The fence/base is just an "L" - the fence vertical, the base horizontal and extends behind the fence - and has the slots in it.

        Man, this is frustrating - a glance at the real thing would explain it.
        Downunder ... 1" = 25.4mm

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        • siliconbauhaus
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2006
          • 925
          • hagerstown, md

          #19
          I'm not telepathic....just pathetic mate. I think I've got the idea now though
          パトリック
          daiku woodworking
          ^deshi^
          neoshed

          Comment

          • RayintheUK
            Veteran Member
            • Sep 2003
            • 1792
            • Crowborough, East Sussex, United Kingdom.
            • Ryobi BT3000

            #20
            Originally posted by T-Bone
            A question for RayintheUK. Ray, would it be better to leave the dust shroud on or take it off in this situation (table mounted, enclosed)?
            Dust extraction is via the port on the horizontal shroud, which I always leave on. If I'm profile cutting, I generally extract from above, via a port built into the fence. If I'm rebating, I'll extract from below, using the dust extraction port. Housing joints (trenches or dados) are about the only milling operation this doesn't work well with, as the dust always shoots out the left-hand side of the workpiece, no matter what you try.

            If you've got a dust extraction system built into an enclosed table, Travis, then you'll probably get better results with the shroud off, as it will allow the dust a larger diameter hole through which to fall. As you can see from the above, Rod Kirby uses the port for his in-table extraction, so I guess it all comes down to the table design in the end.

            BTW, the vertical clear plastic guards are just that - guards. On the bigger machine they're called "Chip Shields," on the smaller one, "Safety Guards." I wanted to make that clear, because some may think that they're necessary for, or assist with, dust extraction - I've not found this to be the case. I've removed the guards on mine, because it's now a dedicated table machine. HTH

            Ray.
            Did I offend you? Click here.

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            • T-Bone
              Forum Newbie
              • Jan 2004
              • 74
              • Helena, MT

              #21
              Thanks Ray and Rod,

              I currently have a hose connection to the enclosure but I think I will change it and run a hose directly to the shroud, like Rod has. I think that will provide more suction in the "rebate" applications, where the fence-mounted dust collection doesn't work.

              Travis

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