My pictures are not as good as LarryG's but hopefully they will be good enough to give you and idea what I did. I made mine before Larry's post but was inspired to share it by the interest in his design. You can see I added a drawer underneith for storage and to raise the jig for ease of use. The drawer is 6 inches tall (and dovetailed together, of course). A key feature is the side stops. I find this helps my accuracy to have the larger stops. I also write the position of the stops on the jig so I can return to that position. I switch between a 1/2 and a 7/16 template fairly often. I added pictures of the jig I use for positioning the stop bar and for setting the depth of the router bit (sorry that one is pretty fuzzy). I also added a picture of the board I made for initial setup before I had lines on the jig. It has a line 1/2 the dovetail template's spacing then lines at the template's spacing. For a 7/16, the first line is 7/32 from the edge then additional lines are 7/16 apart. You put this board in the position of the drawer front, clamp it so that the lines are just inside of the template fingers and set the stop.
I also added a picture of my magnetic micropositioner. It is a normal Sears branded micropositioner with a rare earth magnet cup and magnet on the micropositioner and washers glued to the rip fence. The main advantages are reduced lash and you don't have to lift the rip fence to add the micropositioner.
I also added a picture of my magnetic micropositioner. It is a normal Sears branded micropositioner with a rare earth magnet cup and magnet on the micropositioner and washers glued to the rip fence. The main advantages are reduced lash and you don't have to lift the rip fence to add the micropositioner.
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