15 AMPS or 20

[onedash]

My table saw can not run on an extension cord with a 15 Amp breaker built in. It keeps popping it. I tried on two of these. A short 6 ft and a 25 ft. Is the breaker on the extension cord wrong? I can use other tools with no problem. The saw runs ok on lesser quility extension cords with no breaker built in. And its never tripped the breaker in the box. Do you think if I ran a 20 amp dedicated circuit to the saw it would run better/different?
The wiring in the place is mostly aluminum. I just replaced an outlet that had three sets of wire connected to it. I dont even know where they all go.
Anyhow If I did that it would be temporary because I rent. But couldnt I just run it like an extension cord? wire the outlet to the breaker and snap it in?

[LCHIEN]

does it trip immediately when you turn on the saw or does it trip when cutting wood?

[LJR]

onedash, The breaker built into the extension cord is probably not rated to handle a motor starting load. Thus, it trips, even though there's nothing "wrong".

If you need to run your saw on an extension cord, get a heavier gauge cord (with 12 gauge wire). You don't really "need" the breaker in the cord as long as the circuit is protected by a breaker in the main box. That breaker in the main box should be rated to handle a motor starting load.

Aluminum wiring? Not good. The problem with aluminum is that it expands and contracts as it heats and cools. Go through that cycle many times and the connection itself will become loose and that adds to the heating/expanding problem.

Yes, you may want to run a separate 20 amp circuit for the saw. You don't want to run the motor under a low voltage condition very much or you'll shorten the motor's life. (low voltage caused by too small a wire, or fully loaded circuits, or loose connections)

[onedash]

It trips right away. The blade barely has a chance to move. Its a heavy duty 12 gauge extension cord. I dont like the built in breaker either.
I had one outlet smoking. So I had them send an electrician. I figured since there was already a problem better to have them fix it. The other outlet I changed was just having trouble holding a plug. My lights are always dimming and switches have delayed reactions turning lights on and off. I hate it. Glad its just a rental. I'd hate to find all these problems after I purchased a house. Was aluminum that much cheaper?

[vaking]

Most likely you are using power strip designed for computers or electronics, not for a workshop. I am using mine with a workshop rated power strip with no problems. I cannot find the exact one I have but I would suggest looking at something like
http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatSecti...ection_Id=1709

[dedaddy]

There was a period in the 60's where copper prices took off and aluminum was used in it's place. It has since been banned in most areas.

If the house was wired with AL-CU fixtures, you should be all right. If not, you have a fire hazard. I had to replace all outlets and switches in my house when I bought it because of the aluminum wiring that had been used. I had all kinds of problems until I did. Aluminum also oxidizes on the surface. This oxide is none conductive and can cause heating of a connection. I had one outlet melt the plastic cover when a window A/C was plugged in.

Make sure your insurance is up to date.

As far as the saw tripping breakers, my BT3100 will trip a 20 amp circuit breaker occasionally when I start up with a big dado stack or have the vacumn plugged into the same circuit. All my wiring is 12ga copper.

[onedash]

vaking- its not a surge protector. Its the fattest extension cord they had. Most of the ones out in the garage are the big orange ones. This one is way bigger than those.
dedaddy- insurance is up to date...the outlet That was smoking was for copper wire. When the electrician came he put a copper pigtail on and squirted some stuff on it before he put the wirenut on to prevent corrosion. So my guess is all the swithces and outlets are for copper.