Epoxy over roasted plywood finishing question...

[dbhost]

I have to do a temporary counterop in the RV while I work the new cabinet builds. I was considering 1/2" birch plywood (weight issues)

My question is. How to finish it?

I was considering doing the propane torch "toasting" of the countertop and then coating it with epoxy.

I need waterproofness since a sink will be installed here.

Any other ideas for a "temporary RV countertoop?"

[Jim Frye]

Not sure what the purpose of the "toasting" does, and how does the heat not affect the glues holding the plywood together, and how long is "temporary"? Would a marine varnish like Waterlox be an easier or cheaper solution?

I understand roasting plywood is "Roasted plywood (also known as torrefied or thermally modified plywood) is a process that heats plywood under controlled conditions to remove moisture and alter its cellular structure. This process results in plywood that is more dimensionally stable, weather-resistant, and less prone to warping and shrinking. The roasting process also changes the color of the plywood, giving it a darker, more uniform appearance. Plywood is placed in a specialized kiln or oven and heated under controlled temperatures and pressures.". How do you do this with a propane torch? I've read about people doing in their oven taking several hours.

[dbhost]

I am looking for a different kind of finish than you will usually see on plywood, mostly trying to make it not boring. I have heard it called "torched plywood" as well...

This looked interesting to me...

https://youtu.be/CurlqG1fA3w?si=NrqU5ThX3sVq4je5

How long is short term? I am motivated, and active, so God and health willing, less than 2 years for everything. The Melamine / MDF top is crumbling, I need to replace it like yesterday, I can no longer wait to build the redesigned cabinet...

[dbhost]

Oh, forgot to mention, my plan is REALLY simple for this, Cut it to size, route the cutouts, and roundovers, give it a quick sand, do the torch thing, and stain / epoxy it, particularly on the edges where plywood will wick moisture. I want this sealed up as tight as possible...

[dbhost]

Measure once, twice, three times, four times. THEN take the urethane T molding off and measure again 3 or 4 times. The material thickness is actually 1/2", the T mold makes it taller on the edges gee thanks...

I think I know what I am going to do here....

The kitchen cabinet(s) are two boxes tacked on to each other, one countertop literally fits under the other.

So I need to either replace the shorter box, or "shim" it.

So measure, mark, and lay out the new countertop as one piece.

Use the existing "Temporary" from the high side and rip shims to basically build UP the shorter cabinet, Screw and glue in place.

New temporary cabinet a simple 1/2" piece of plywood. Looking at different stains on different woods. The look I am going for is Minwax Golden Pecan on White Oak.

Due to the nature of the goofy main cabinet, I need to make a cutout of the section that the sink will be in on the right side so it can be hinged. Or I cut access hole and make a door for the existing cabinet... Then just do the pre-stain, stain, and then urethane the snot out of it and install...

[Jim Frye]

"I cut it off twice and it's still too short".

[dbhost]

Worse yet, I wrote 1/2" when I meant to write 3/4"...

Like I mentioned this is going to be, well... Long term temporary the way my projects go.

The stove is here now, the sink is here now. Heading to Home Depot to get a 4x8 sheet of plywood.

My measurements are 21" wide x 40" long

I am going to have Home Depot cut the plywood to 22" across the 48" width. Finish cutting to size on the sawhorses.

Double / triple check the last itsy bitsy possible variation in width once I remove the original countertop. .

I know dumb, but I don't want to jab a hip moving around in the camper, so roundover the edges. Simply put, I don't want to put the T molding back, it's in bad shape and... ugly.

Lay out the holes for the sink, and the stove, and CAREFULLY cut them out. Doesn't have to be super precise, but can't be sloppy. Probably drill the corners to start, and clamp a straight edge on and use the router to get a nice controllable clean edge.

Rip the shim stock from this, and some added Sandeply 3/4 I have in the shop (scraps). Fill the gap and finish the shim stock and finish with just plain old brown paint. Dowel that into place because there is no way edge to edge plywood is going to glue to MDF...

Place the new countertop in position, adjust as necessary. Mark where the stove will overlap the intersection of the 2 cabinets. Measure and mark down 4". Remove that material. This will allow me to install the stove, route the fuel line and keep flamable stuff away from the bottom of the stove.

Measure, measure again, mark, double check measurements and then cut out access hole for main compartment under the sink. This is where the gray water jug, fuel canister and misc storage goes... Build door (duh). (Recycle hinges and catches from home project pull outs,

Apply finish to new countertop.

Mount stove, and sink, test stove connections for gas leakage.

Mount countertop / sink / stove assembly.

Make sink plumbing connecctions
Mount up stove fuel bottle.
Place gray water tank under sink and run drain line to it.

At this point the middle of the plumbing system is missing. I need someone that knows how to weld. I will be adding a 25 gallon freshwater tank UNDER the van and need someone to weld up the mounting frames. THEN I can add the tank, pump, and all the plumbing bits and bobs needed.

[Jim Frye]

I made my own plywood edge banding for a project by ripping 1/8" thick strips of red oak from a 4/4 thick board. The plywood edge was finish sanded and the edging was glued on with TBII (TBIII is more water resistant) glue. I used masking tape to hold the banding on while the glue set. The 1/8" banding bent easily and has held fast since 2001. It's also thick enough to take a bit of roundover.

[dbhost]

Oddly enough, I have got a TON of oak edge banding. Hadn't considered banding it, but now that you mention it, Not a bad idea...