Sword Display

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  • Pappy
    The Full Monte
    • Dec 2002
    • 10453
    • San Marcos, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 (x2)

    Sword Display

    I want to make a display plaque for my NCO sword. There are several available commercially but the $85 - $150 price seems outrageous. Plus most of them mount the sword and scabbard at about 45 Degrees. I would like the angle closer to 60 degrees.

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    Problem is how to mount the sword and scabbard securely. A search for plans only comes up with the ones for sale and the only picture I have found uses a block of foam to hold them. Got to be a better way.

    Click image for larger version

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    Another, simpler display would be a shadow box. It would provide more protection but it would be heavy to hang.
    Click image for larger version

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    Don, aka Pappy,

    Wise men talk because they have something to say,
    Fools because they have to say something.
    Plato
  • cwsmith
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 2742
    • NY Southern Tier, USA.
    • BT3100-1

    #2
    Pappy,

    Absolutely no experience with this kind of thing, but looking at the first picture with the double crest (one in back of the other), I'm thinking three pieces of stock. The front and back pieces of the shield are decorative. But in between those, I'm thinking a third sectioned piece could be made, routed in a manner that would hold the sword and scabbard at the angle you wish.

    That 'sandwiched' piece would be routed or even sawed (bandsaw or scrollsaw) to fit the thickness of the blade and scabbard (one passing behind the other. Foam or something would have to be added to hold them in place; and, you'd want to use whatever material to ensure that no corrosion took place.

    Best (in my mind anyway) would be to design the center piece of stock so that you can withdraw either sword or scabbard for cleaning/polishing without having to unscrew anything. Not sure if there's enough taper on either of those to allow a slip fit, but you would know that first hand.

    CWS
    Think it Through Before You Do!

    Comment

    • onedash
      Veteran Member
      • Mar 2005
      • 1013
      • Maryland
      • Craftsman 22124

      #3
      I like the shadowbox version better. I think with keyhole slots you could fill it with sand as long as you put the slots 16" apart and hang it on studs. Plus I have found with keyholes you don't need to be very precise. Just make the slots extra long . Just make sure they go in the same direction.LOL. The last little shelf I did had them going in opposite directions but it still worked. It also keeps it flush to the wall instead of being a little tilted.
      YOU DONT HAVE TO TRAIN TO BE MISERABLE. YOU HAVE TO TRAIN TO ENDURE MISERY.

      Comment

      • Pappy
        The Full Monte
        • Dec 2002
        • 10453
        • San Marcos, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 (x2)

        #4
        The shadow box would be simpler and I am also a fan of keyhole slots for mounting. I even use them on most picture frames. That said, I would prefer to display the sword in the plaque style mount. Getting the sword mounted so it could be removed would be doable, but not the scabbard. Might be possible to use a dense packing foam and mount the front shield with keyholes. The location would have to be precise to have the front shield mount straight. I would also keep the stand off spacing to a minimum. Just enough so the hand guard would be away from the wall 1/4" - 3/8".
        Don, aka Pappy,

        Wise men talk because they have something to say,
        Fools because they have to say something.
        Plato

        Comment

        • onedash
          Veteran Member
          • Mar 2005
          • 1013
          • Maryland
          • Craftsman 22124

          #5
          I got a plaque with a KA-Bar and it sat diagonal on two blocks with slots. It always slid too the handle. I just folded a piece of cardboard and stuck it between the wood and the blade and the compression kept it in place. I know it's a little lighter then the sword but I think the same principle would work. If you had a slot for the blade and a foam wedge on each side of the blade I suspect it would be locked in place.
          YOU DONT HAVE TO TRAIN TO BE MISERABLE. YOU HAVE TO TRAIN TO ENDURE MISERY.

          Comment

          • atgcpaul
            Veteran Member
            • Aug 2003
            • 4055
            • Maryland
            • Grizzly 1023SLX

            #6
            For the plaque design, are you OK if you have to unscrew the back plate from the front plate to remove the sword and scabbard OR are you looking to withdraw the sword from the shield while it's mounted to the wall?

            I once made a custom sanding block to match the profile of some molding I made on the router table. I formed the block by making a small box to hold a short length of molding, then I packed Bondo into the box over the molding. When it set, I had a perfect impression of my molding that I stuck sand paper to with spray glue.

            I think you already have Bondo from your trike project. Could you make a Bondo cradle for your sword and scabbard (wrap them in Saran wrap first), then when you sandwich it all together, line the cradle with a thin piece of neoprene rubber for friction and to protect the blade and scabbard from the Bondo. That cradle is then sandwiched between the front and back plaques.

            Paul

            Comment

            • capncarl
              Veteran Member
              • Jan 2007
              • 3570
              • Leesburg Georgia USA
              • SawStop CTS

              #7
              I believe that sword and knife displays that contain their items with fastners and other locking devices do this to keep them out of little hands. I have a bowey knife that I need to build a display for and the ability to keep it safe from curious children is a major concern.
              capncarl

              Comment

              • Pappy
                The Full Monte
                • Dec 2002
                • 10453
                • San Marcos, TX, USA.
                • BT3000 (x2)

                #8
                Originally posted by atgcpaul
                For the plaque design, are you OK if you have to unscrew the back plate from the front plate to remove the sword and scabbard OR are you looking to withdraw the sword from the shield while it's mounted to the wall?
                Paul
                I don't need the sword or scabbard to be easily removable. I've seen the bondo sanding block idea and that might be the ticket for final shape of the resting blocks.
                Don, aka Pappy,

                Wise men talk because they have something to say,
                Fools because they have to say something.
                Plato

                Comment

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