There's a Mission style bed in there somewhere ...

[capncarl]

I like the way Minwax red oak stain looks on oak and pecan, but not so much on cherry. It doesn't look too dark or too red.
capncarl

[Pappy]

My favorite way to work white oak is to fume it in ammonia. Darkens it to look like it has aged naturally.

[BadeMillsap]

Just to show a little progress ... these pictures show the dry fit of the legs and the rails for the headboard and footboard ... no spindles cut yet but that is next ... had to be sure everything fit square, the joinery was good and then need to get exact measurements for the spindles.

It's no secret that white oak is tough on blades and will scorch with the slightest failure in technique .... I have several examples to prove it ...

Making the legs is by far the most challenging part (to me at least) ... long 45degree bevels down 4 leg pieces for each leg and then a long dado for the spline all along each of the 8 45degree edges. AND THEN ... the heart stopping "glue up" getting all 4 leg pieces, the splines aligned and clamped before the glue starts to set ... just getting that much glue spread to do the assembly fast enough is a challenge .... glad to have that part done and behind me!



This next shot just shows the footboard dry fit with legs and rails



Here you can see the dado (there is a matching one in the top rail) where the stiles will fit ... there's a little woodworking trickery involved to simulate a bunch of M/T fit spindles ...



This shows the Headboard dry fit (the center rail isn't actually positioned in the center of the legs that has to be dealt with when I have spindles to get exact position

[Bill in Buena Park]

Lookin' good Bade! That bed is starting to find its way out of your lumber pile...

[leehljp]

I really like it! Keep the picts coming.

[tfischer]

Awesome job on the legs especially. I would have just done a stacked glue-up myself because I don't have that kind of skills lol

[onedash]

Those legs are nice! Any trickery used making the cuts or splines? As good as they look, did it take many clamps to hold it together while the glue dried?

[BadeMillsap]

Those legs are nice! Any trickery used making the cuts or splines? As good as they look, did it take many clamps to hold it together while the glue dried?

Thank you. The beveled edges were just careful cuts on each edge... To cut the spline slots I cut on other side of the blade and used one of the beveled legs double sided taped to the saw table with the Miter up to act as linear support for the piece getting the slot cut... Tedious but it worked well.

As far as clamping I used several "rope clamps" (wrapped rope around leg and tightened by twisting) to apply uniform pressure around the leg. Worked very well.

Via Tapatalk-- Bade

[BadeMillsap]

Can I just say it takes a LOT of spindles... I got all of the headboard spindles and a few for the footboard out of the off cuts from the legs and rails...



Via Tapatalk-- Bade

[BadeMillsap]

Oh how I wish these were glued in instead of just dry fit ...

Took about an hour to get these 32 spindles and the center spindle seated, squared and clamped in the rails ... sooooooo .... I guess I'll be using West System T88 for the actual glue up ... I don't want the spindles to rattle. and they would if I didn't glue them. I would typically worry about expansion but I made this same bed several years ago from the same white oak wood and glued those spindles and have had no expansion problems (that was a queen size this is a full size, so there were even more in the queen).

And then of course it is a repeat for the footboard .... Sigh ...

I used a 1/8" roundover set in my router table with a stop at each end so that 1/4" of each end was not rounded over to ensure square edges to fit in the mortises. I did the math ... 4 sides per spindle, 16 inches in length(16.5 - .5) = 352 feet of 1/8" roundover .. crikey! That's over a football field ... and doesn't count the roundovers on the rails!

[capncarl]

Are you going to stain it before you glue it up? I've stained and not stained before glue ups and learned that glue that gets on the porus wood will prevent stain from soaking in..... And epoxy is especially bad about it. I just be careful about getting stain where glue is going to be. I'm not sure if glue will hamper the glues sticking ability or not but haven't seen any negative results.
capncarl

[BadeMillsap]

I generally mask very carefully around all of the joints. With the epoxy I'll use dna or lacquer thinner as a final wipe up after assembly glue up.

I've often considered stain first but I'm not confident of a uniform finish... Guess I could 2nd coat finish after assembly... I'll give it more thought

Via Tapatalk-- Bade

[leehljp]

Looking absolutely GREAT!

[capncarl]

Blade,
I've found that masking to prevent glue Bo-Bo's takes way more time, and invariably some glue gets through. Staining first doesn't take that much time to just wipe on and wipe off and any glue that gets on the stain simply wipes off and the glue doesn't effect the stain color. After final assembly a final stain wipe finishes it up.
Capncarl

[BadeMillsap]

Blade,
I've found that masking to prevent glue Bo-Bo's takes way more time, and invariably some glue gets through. Staining first doesn't take that much time to just wipe on and wipe off and any glue that gets on the stain simply wipes off and the glue doesn't effect the stain color. After final assembly a final stain wipe finishes it up.
Capncarl

Thanks... Considering it.

Via Tapatalk-- Bade