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Somewhat wood related, but this is what has been taking up a lot of my free time lately...
The Burgundy Mist one is a Squier by Fender Affinity Jazz bass, I have modded it with Duncan Designed pickups, a high mass bridge with brass saddles, added an aftermarket tortoise shell pickguard, and given it a full shielding job to eliminate the typical single coil hum. I am not 100% done with this one though. I need to polish the fret ends as Fender did a functional, but not good job buffing them, and the headstock will be color matched to the body, and a new Squier by Fender Jazz Bass logo is ready to go on it. I just need to source up a small quantity of 1959 Oldsmobile Burgundy Mist touch up paint (easier said than done, but not impossible) and I am off to mask and spray this.
The 3 tone burst one is an SX Ursa 1 RN 3TS that came in the cheap kit. I have ripped the OE strings off of it, thrown on D'Addario EXL170 strings, gotten a cheap import tort pickguard trimmed to fit and tossed in. The knob bores for the pots are kind of big for the OEM pots, but they work. I just had to lock down the crush washers onto the plastic, they aren't going anywhere.
I want to match the headstock to the body, not sure how to replicate the colors.
I have a third, about to start project just doing some research...
It is hard to tell from the photo, but if you look just between the neck, and the P (the two piece) pickup, on the right hand side, you can see where the original finish has flaked off. I have been able to at least minimize the look of the bald spot by carefully refinishing that spot with Watco Danish Oil, however it is glossier than the OE finish.
The body wood is Mahogany, and I would like to go back to the original color, while protecting it from flaking off / abrasion and keep a matte finish. My thought process from what I have seen so far.
#1. The OEM finish is just barely on the surface of the wood, the lightest abrasion takes it off, sort of like a Shellac that didn't penetrate the wood. I believe all it would take is a very light sanding with fine grit paper to get me back to bare wood.
#2. The gloss of the Danish Oil goes away rather quickly. I am thinking Watco all around. However the finish is still a touch light. Would a second application of Watco Danish Oil darken it up sufficiently?
#3. Once the color is spot on, and the gloss has died off, I would like to protect it, without adding any gloss what so ever. I am thinking a Matte finish poly would make for a good, durable, non gloss finish. If it yellows the finish slightly that is really no big deal.
FWIW, I have cleaned my shop (HUGE undertaking thank you very much!) and finally found my table saw under the piles o junk my wife and I jammed in there. Time to get back to work with the saw. I have a pedalboard project I need to get busy on, Pretty simple build really. Room enough for a single tuner pedal, a large multi effects box, and the overdrive button for my Fender amp. There will be 3 20' cables that I will bundle together from this rig probably using split loom, and I will try to have a cord wrap sort of hook thing so I can wrap the loomed cables for transport instead of unplugging and fishing through the board which is a pain...
The Burgundy Mist one is a Squier by Fender Affinity Jazz bass, I have modded it with Duncan Designed pickups, a high mass bridge with brass saddles, added an aftermarket tortoise shell pickguard, and given it a full shielding job to eliminate the typical single coil hum. I am not 100% done with this one though. I need to polish the fret ends as Fender did a functional, but not good job buffing them, and the headstock will be color matched to the body, and a new Squier by Fender Jazz Bass logo is ready to go on it. I just need to source up a small quantity of 1959 Oldsmobile Burgundy Mist touch up paint (easier said than done, but not impossible) and I am off to mask and spray this.
The 3 tone burst one is an SX Ursa 1 RN 3TS that came in the cheap kit. I have ripped the OE strings off of it, thrown on D'Addario EXL170 strings, gotten a cheap import tort pickguard trimmed to fit and tossed in. The knob bores for the pots are kind of big for the OEM pots, but they work. I just had to lock down the crush washers onto the plastic, they aren't going anywhere.
I want to match the headstock to the body, not sure how to replicate the colors.
I have a third, about to start project just doing some research...
It is hard to tell from the photo, but if you look just between the neck, and the P (the two piece) pickup, on the right hand side, you can see where the original finish has flaked off. I have been able to at least minimize the look of the bald spot by carefully refinishing that spot with Watco Danish Oil, however it is glossier than the OE finish.
The body wood is Mahogany, and I would like to go back to the original color, while protecting it from flaking off / abrasion and keep a matte finish. My thought process from what I have seen so far.
#1. The OEM finish is just barely on the surface of the wood, the lightest abrasion takes it off, sort of like a Shellac that didn't penetrate the wood. I believe all it would take is a very light sanding with fine grit paper to get me back to bare wood.
#2. The gloss of the Danish Oil goes away rather quickly. I am thinking Watco all around. However the finish is still a touch light. Would a second application of Watco Danish Oil darken it up sufficiently?
#3. Once the color is spot on, and the gloss has died off, I would like to protect it, without adding any gloss what so ever. I am thinking a Matte finish poly would make for a good, durable, non gloss finish. If it yellows the finish slightly that is really no big deal.
FWIW, I have cleaned my shop (HUGE undertaking thank you very much!) and finally found my table saw under the piles o junk my wife and I jammed in there. Time to get back to work with the saw. I have a pedalboard project I need to get busy on, Pretty simple build really. Room enough for a single tuner pedal, a large multi effects box, and the overdrive button for my Fender amp. There will be 3 20' cables that I will bundle together from this rig probably using split loom, and I will try to have a cord wrap sort of hook thing so I can wrap the loomed cables for transport instead of unplugging and fishing through the board which is a pain...
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