Cabinet help

[russde]

I've built two small cabinets for the garage using Kreg's 'Basic Cabinet Making Booklet' but am now finishing the remodel of a bathroom that needs a cabinet (vanity) as well.
Main difference is that this cabinet will be going between two walls and as the tile wraps onto the inside edge of one wall, building the cabinet and sliding it in isn't an option.
So, I'm looking for advice, references, etc.
Thanks,
Russel

[mpc]

So the cabinet needs to be a tile-width width wider than what is available to slide it into position - it needs to span wall-to-wall where there are no tiles... but tiles exist at the corner or whatever in front of the cabinet?

If so, what I'd do:
Measure the available space for the cabinet. Measure the width both where the front of the cabinet will be and further back - in case the space isn't quite square. Find the narrowest width. Build the basic cabinet sides/top/bottom/back a tad smaller than the narrowest measurement and narrower than your tile-limited width. Don't attach the face frame permanently yet. Make the face frame overhang the sides of the cabinet a bit - instead of making it flush with the cabinet sides. Before assembling the face frame, take the two vertical pieces into the room and scribe the wall outline/pattern onto them:
1: hold a vertical piece against one wall
2: note any gaps due to uneven wall
3: set a compass tip-to-pencil distance to match that largest gap.
4: Holding the compass level/flat, slide the point along the wall so the pencil traces a pattern of the wall onto your vertical face frame piece. Repeat for the other wall & vertical piece.
5: cut/sand to that line so the pieces snug against the wall with no unsightly gaps.

Hold the two face frame verticals against their respective walls and measure the horizontal distance between them to size the rest of the face frame. Build it but don't permanently attach it to the cabinet yet. I'd use pocket screws from inside the cabinet.

This way you can build & apply finish the cabinet body and face frame, then remove the face frame, install the "box" part, then angle the face frame past your tiles and re-attach it. The face frame will end up wider than the cabinet box part. This is commonly done on the last cabinet in a kitchen set to provide space for non-90 degree corners and scribing to walls.

mpc

[Black wallnut]

Yeah what MPC says is a good way to do it. You might also consider building it in place.

[russde]

So the cabinet needs to be a tile-width width wider than what is available to slide it into position - it needs to span wall-to-wall where there are no tiles... but tiles exist at the corner or whatever in front of the cabinet?
mpc

To answer the question first, Yes, you understood my poor phrasing.
Second, wow, I had to read thru that a few times to get it into my brain, it's well written, it's was just hard for me to wrap my brain around it. I think I get it now. Thanks, VERY much for such a thoughtful reply.

Yeah what MPC says is a good way to do it. You might also consider building it in place.

Thanks to you too Wallnut...I was leaning toward building it in place, and may still; I'm going to plan out mpc's way and then the built in method and see which one gains me more space.
Maybe I'll post a picture of the space too...just dawned on me that a picture might help.
R

[JimD]

Building it in place will be much faster. I am selling a house that has all built in place cabinets. I wouldn't do it the way the trim carpenter did but the house is 15 years old and the cabinets still work fine. I replaced a couple and they were tough to tear apart. He used only butt joints with glue and pneumatically driven brads. For a situation like you describe, he would have nailed a piece of 3/4 plywood to the walls to attach the face frame to. A base would have gone down first, made of uprights against the floor topped with 1x12 pine (for the bottom of the cabinet). Then the plywood sides nailed to the wall (not the base) and then a face frame.

I would use pocket screws or even through screws plugged but otherwise there is nothing wrong with this construction (glue too, of course).

A free standing cabinet gets made the same except the base is nailed to the sides. The builder bought doors.

I like to make things in the shop and then carry them to their location but especially between two walls, there is a place for a built in place cabinet. You could still scribe the face frame. You would need to if it's clear finish. For a painted cabinet you can cover the gaps with caulk.

[LCHIEN]

building it in place makes the most sense to me.
Put the framing on the two opposite walls and level it across.
THe measure the span of the pieces to go in between or face frame or whatever to screw to the framing.

[jabe]

Build in place

I would build it in place. I use 1 x 2 or 1 x 3 for cleats or I just cut some plywd to those sizes for cleats. Set your Toe kick/base cleats on the back & 2 side walls 3 1/2" up from the floor, keep it level then attach cabinet bottom plywd to it. I usually spread some kind of roach powder/boric acid inside the base b4 attaching the cabinet bottom plywd. I usually cut the cabinet bottom 1/8" smaller on the width and length so it'll drop in place easily, caulk the back & side edges to cover the gaps if any. I let the front overhang the front toe kick about 1 3/4 to 2".

Set top cleats level on the back and 2 side walls to hold your countertop. These top cleats would be set to the height you want less the thickness of the countertop. Set the front edge of the 2 top side cleats so that it's plumb with the front edge of your cabinet bottom.

Build your face frame allow extra width on stile pcs so U can scribe it to fit the wall profile. I usually backcut 30 to 45 degree on those FF stile (side against the wall) so it'll be easier to trim the scribe line with a small pocket plane or with a sanding block. Once the FF is built to size, attach it to the top cleat and the cabinet bottom. You don't need plywd cabinet sides, U R using the existing walls as the cabinet sides. Install your counter top and you're good to go.