Does anyone have a system cor cutting a pattern on a scroll saw and have no bevel to the pieces, I set the table to 90 degrees but always seem to have the pieces with a slight bevel ,any suggestions
Scroll saw bevel
Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
-
first of all when you set the table to 90 degrees is that to the scale or to the blade? sometimes the blade guides are not aligned properly and the plane of the guides and blade actually tilts and the scale on the table is therefore not correct. Sometimes the scale has a setscrew and can be fixed. The proper method is to set the table tot he blade at 90 degrees, then set the scale to 90 degrees.
Second, when you use the saw, are you setting the top guide as low over the workpiece as possible (Edit: This applies to bandsaws, in scroll saws the top guide is not adjustable)? Usually this entails having a shoe pressed against the work to keep it from lifting. If you don't then forces on the blade will make it twist, deflect and do things that can affect the verticality of the blade travel. Finally is you tension correct? Again this can make the blade twist and or deflect if its too low. Too high and your blade life will be short.
My first bandsaw was returned to the store because the top guide was not directly over the bottom guide. the blade moved side to side as It went up and down.Last edited by LCHIEN; 11-16-2013, 12:59 PM.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions -
I second checking the blade to the table, making sure it's at 90. Do not trust the bevel gauge on the saw. Also, make sure the table to locked down and not loose.
In my experience, having the blade pensioned too loosely is a much bigger problem than too tight.
What scroll saw are you using? Is there a lot of vibration when cutting? What blades are you using on what type of wood and how thick?JoeComment
-
I have watched or talked with people who have poor scroll saws by American/Euro tool standards and they do great jobs. The difference is that they know their saws and they have experience with those saws and they know the wood that they are using. Their experience is from daily use, 5-7 days a week.
Tension and tangle adjustment aside (meaning set correctly) it takes getting a feel for feed speed and knowing when to turn, how much to turn at what feed speed.
I have a 9" PC bandsaw. It was/is a pain to cut 3/4 inch thick wood at 90° as the blade wandered so much. However, if I took my time, and more time, and tried to "feel" the wood through the cut, I could. But that was too slow for me. I followed set-up instructions and suggestions, and bought new blade guides but still had the same problem unless I slowed the process down and tried to "guide" the wood in accordance with the blades movement. Wasn't easy, but I did it a couple of times - and then put the saw up. I should get it out and sell it!
The point is, I have seen people with much much poorer tools than I have do a better job than me. I just did not have the expereince or patience with those tools to do that kind of a job that I wanted. My first saw on a table was a Sears Radial Arm saw and did some great work with that still exist today and are in daily use. Since I moved to a Table saw and plenty of routers, I have had trouble making precise cuts with my 30 year old DeWalt 10" RAS inherited from my dad. When one particular tool is all a person has, they generally find a way to make it work and soon begin making it do GREAT things.Last edited by leehljp; 11-16-2013, 05:23 PM.Hank Lee
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!Comment
-
Scroll saw bevel
As for the scroll saw I have ,it is a hager that I have used for the past 20 years and it works just fine, I am presently cutting 1/2 inch walnut an d using a #9 skip tooth paragas blade,I try to go as slow as possable speed and feed the wood pretty slow ,but still have a slight bevel on the cuts, I try to adjust the table and it will cut one or two pieces ok then back to the slight bevel, I tighten the table locking adjust with channel lock pliers so I don,t think it can change but I guess it doesComment
-
As for the scroll saw I have ,it is a hager that I have used for the past 20 years and it works just fine, I am presently cutting 1/2 inch walnut an d using a #9 skip tooth paragas blade,I try to go as slow as possable speed and feed the wood pretty slow ,but still have a slight bevel on the cuts, I try to adjust the table and it will cut one or two pieces ok then back to the slight bevel, I tighten the table locking adjust with channel lock pliers so I don,t think it can change but I guess it does
Anyway, check the blade for square with the table, then cut. if the cut has a bevel, check the table again, right away. If its still square then you have either the blade flexing, or the table flexing. If its not square, then the table lock is slipping. So you can at least isolate the problem.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
-
I'm not an expert scrollsawer, but when I use mine I check for square by cutting half-way through a thick-ish (say, 2" x 2") piece of scrap, stop the saw, flip the piece back to front, and then check how the kerf aligns with the back of the blade. You'll easily see whether the blade, under tension, is square to the table or not.
I check for square on the bandsaw using this method, too.
One technique issue that I learned I had, was that I had a tendency to have a slight side-to-side push as I fed the stock into the blade. I never noticed this until I tried making a simple jigsaw puzzle, and there was a slight beveled gap in the fit of the pieces.
I'm struggling to accept that the table would have that much flex or slippage for such a light and delicate operation. It's not like you're slamming down a 4" x 4" post and trying to use a 28 tpi blade to cut it, or leaning your full weight on the table as you cut. Is it possible that over-cranking with the channel lock pliers is actually forcing it out of square?BrianComment
-
BTW Google offers no matches for a "paragas blade".
???
And maybe its Hegner scroll saw? - supposed to be pretty good.Last edited by LCHIEN; 11-17-2013, 09:41 PM.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
Footer Ad
Collapse
Comment