Finishing Help

[greencat]

Hi

I purchased a desk from the Thrift Store. I am guessing it is from the 60’s but I could be wrong. I want to re-finish it. I would like it a little darker and I prefer a Non-Shinny finish. The current finish has worn off in a few places.

Questions
How should I remove the current finish – chemicals or sanding?
What should I do for a new finish? Stain and Poly, Oil, shellac or lacquer?

Appreciate all comments
Thanks

[JR]

Better living through chemistry!

My suggestion is to strip it with a chemical stripper. Then sand it. Since you plan to use a dark stain you won't have to worry about getting the old stain off entirely.

I like wipe on poly for a top coat. It can be found in satin if you like, but you might find that using gloss then hitting it with 0000 steel wool gives you more control over the sheen.

[capncarl]

I remember that desk! My 6th grade math teacher kept his paddle in the top right drawer.
That desk would look great with a red oak stain and several applications of butcher wax.
capncarl

[greencat]

I remember that desk! My 6th grade math teacher kept his paddle in the top right drawer.
capncarl

Didn't find a paddle but it looks like the center drawer has taken a beating.

Any suggestion for a Stripper - I know they range from Earth Friendly to chlorinated solvents.

[chopnhack]

I had pretty good success recently with citristrip. You have to glop it on and leave it wet. A thick brush coat followed by covering it with plastic sheeting works well. There will be a lot less scraping required.

[Lonnie in Orlando]

There are a dozen ways that will get you to the look that you want. Here is the path that I would probably try. Easy, no drips or sags ...

After you complete any repairs, your desk might be a canidate for Formby's Furniture Refinisher. Not as caustic as strippers. Easy to use. Hard to screw up. May blend the color into scratches. Use rags, paper towels etc, then lightly wet sand with Formby's up throught the grades to about 320 or 400 on a hard rubber block to level the surface. Probably better to under-sand than to over-sand.
http://www.formbys.com/products/refinisher/

Then experiment with some colors of Watco "Danish Oil" to find the right degree of darkening that you want. Wipe on a couple of coats. Then wet sand with Watco and 400 paper on a hard rubber block. You can continue to add coats of Watco, either tinted or Natural. Wet sand the next to last coat with Watco and 400. If all looks good, add another coat or two. You can lightly wet sand the last coat with 400, then steel wool and wax. Or go straight to the steel wool and wax.
Click on samples to see color names:
http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-...tco/danish-oil

If you want more protection that Watco alone. Then use colored Watco for the first couple of coats or put on multiple coats, then wipe on varnish or poly thinned 50-50 with mineral spirits. You could brush slightly thinned varnish onto the top. When the surfaces are fully sealed and built up with varnish, lightly wet sand with soapy water and 400g on a hard rubber block. Wipe on a few more coats, then lightly wet sand, or skip the final wet sand. Wait a week or two then buff with steel wool and wax.

If you want to totally strip the piece, I still use Klean-Strip chemical strippers. Wear industrial strength rubber gloves. If you tear the glove, throw it away and get another.
Klean-Strip Strip-X would be fine for your piece
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=72&prodid=119

Klean-Strip KS-3 Premium Stripper is probably over-kill.
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=72&prodid=117

Sand the bare surface using (you guessed it) a hard rubber block.

Watco may still be a good choice to add color to the bare wood. Top coat as you desire.

Here is info on finishing oak in a recent Wood Mag email:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...c=nwwood110713

Here is info on types of finishes in the same Wood email:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/material...c=nwwood110713

Here is some more info on finishing that was in the Wood email:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/material...c=nwwood110713
http://www.woodmagazine.com/material...c=nwwood110713

I'm sure that the desk will enjoy it's new life.

- Lonnie

[cork58]

Look on the bottom of the center drawer for a maker and date.