Advice for Finishing Mortice Gauge?

[phrog]

Hope I put this in the right forum.
Several months ago I bought a Marples Mortice Gauge on eBay. It was covered with blue paint. I have removed the paint (and the original finish in so doing) but now have two questions:

1. What would you use to finish this device - polyurethane, shellac, etc.? (If you notice on the block, there is still gold paint from the original logo and I would like to save this if I can.)

2. Should I screw the brass parts back on the wooden parts before I apply the finish or afterwards? (If I apply before screwing them back on, will that affect their seating?)

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions and opinions.

[LCHIEN]

polyurethane.
polish up the brasswork, and put on after finishing. The amount it will be off will be the same if you fisinh over the brass.
The other solution(s) if worried that the thickness of the finish will throw your measuring/marking tool off is to mask off the area where the brass fastens when finishing and then put the brass on. Or, put the brass on, mask the brass, then finish.

[gsmittle]

I would vote for shellac. I just like the look of shellac, and it's really easy to apply, reapply, and repair.

g.

[Pappy]

I would usea 1# - 1 1/2# cut shellac and wipe it on in thin coats. I refinish plane totes and knobs that way and the result is outstanding.

[cabinetman]

I would just use a pure Tung oil.

.

[chopnhack]

Test the gold paint with whatever solvent is in the finish you intend to use to make sure you won't make the logo run. That being said, I would also use shellac for the above mentioned reasons. After cleaning the brass, I truly don't see a reason why you couldn't spray right over the brass. It would protect the brass temporarily until it rubs off.

[wardprobst]

Depending upon how you want it to look, you could touch up the decal with gold paint from the hobby shop and a fine brush. I'd vote for a coat of shellac on the wood, assemble it all and finish with a couple of light coats of lacquer. It will protect the brass and is easy to repair. You can get pretty good clear in a rattle can at the big box stores. If you have access to it, my favorite is Koenig with Mohawk/Behlen right behind.
DP

[phrog]

Thanks to all who replied. I had originally considered tung oil but wondered about frequent reapplication. Then I considered shellac but was afraid the ethanol base would dissolve the gold paint. I'm afraid lacquer would do the same. That is when I considered water-based poly but wondered if it would be too thick on the brass. So I posted on here to get opinions. Still haven't made up my mind but may try a few things to see how they react to the gold paint. Again, thanks to all.

[cabinetman]

Thanks to all who replied. I had originally considered tung oil but wondered about frequent reapplication. Then I considered shellac but was afraid the ethanol base would dissolve the gold paint. I'm afraid lacquer would do the same. That is when I considered water-based poly but wondered if it would be too thick on the brass. So I posted on here to get opinions. Still haven't made up my mind but may try a few things to see how they react to the gold paint. Again, thanks to all.

The question is really what you would prefer. There's the look of the finish, and what it would feel like. You're correct, with an oil finish, there would be re-application, but that isn't a big deal. It's just a matter of wiping the dirt off and re-apply, and wipe off. You will get to the point that it's pretty well sealed, and it will develop a sheen.

If a film finish, it has that film look, sort of plasticky looking. It can scratch and chip. Maintenance would require sanding it down and re-applying. A waterbase polyurethane would provide a clear finish, whereas an oil finish would add an amber tone.

.

[phrog]

The question is really what you would prefer. There's the look of the finish, and what it would feel like. You're correct, with an oil finish, there would be re-application, but that isn't a big deal. It's just a matter of wiping the dirt off and re-apply, and wipe off. You will get to the point that it's pretty well sealed, and it will develop a sheen.

If a film finish, it has that film look, sort of plasticky looking. It can scratch and chip. Maintenance would require sanding it down and re-applying. A waterbase polyurethane would provide a clear finish, whereas an oil finish would add an amber tone.

.

After reading this, I think I would prefer the tung oil finish if it doesn't mess up the gold logo. I will experiment on a small section to see. Thanks for the info.
PS, C'man Would the tung oil finish come off on the raw wood pieces that I'm marking with the tool? Thanks. Richard

[cabinetman]

After reading this, I think I would prefer the tung oil finish if it doesn't mess up the gold logo. I will experiment on a small section to see. Thanks for the info.
PS, C'man Would the tung oil finish come off on the raw wood pieces that I'm marking with the tool? Thanks. Richard

I was referring to 100% pure Tung oil, not a "Tung Oil Finish"...which is basically a varnish/oil/solvent blend. BTW, The labels that read "Tung Oil Finish" more than likely don't have any Tung oil at all, but rather BLO, or soy oil.

But, to answer your question, once cured, neither an oiled finish, or a blended mix should not rub off on your work.

.

[phrog]

I was referring to 100% pure Tung oil, not a "Tung Oil Finish"...which is basically a varnish/oil/solvent blend. BTW, The labels that read "Tung Oil Finish" more than likely don't have any Tung oil at all, but rather BLO, or soy oil.

But, to answer your question, once cured, neither an oiled finish, or a blended mix should not rub off on your work.

.

Thanks. I just learned something. A friend had suggested I use Tung Oil on a Walnut piece I was working on and I didn't realize there was a Tung Oil vs Tung Oil Finish. Will look for the Real stuff. Again, thanks.

[cabinetman]

Thanks. I just learned something. A friend had suggested I use Tung Oil on a Walnut piece I was working on and I didn't realize there was a Tung Oil vs Tung Oil Finish. Will look for the Real stuff. Again, thanks.

The label should read...100% Pure Tung Oil, or Pure Tung Oil, or China Wood Oil.

.

[phrog]

The label should read...100% Pure Tung Oil, or Pure Tung Oil, or China Wood Oil.

.

A particular brand I should look for and can they be found at the local box stores? Thanks.

[cabinetman]

A particular brand I should look for and can they be found at the local box stores? Thanks.

I haven't seen it at HD, Lowes, or Ace. I get it at Constantines, but it's available at other woodworking supply stores. You just have to know what to look for.

.