Christmas projects

[JimD]

I've been off work (mostly, still do some email) for over 2 weeks now. I made Christmas dinner for 7 and did some other entertaining but I have also squeezed in some small shop projects. I made a cabinet for my church using my new DeWalt track saw. It is 5 foot tall, 16 inches deep with three shelves. The main body is from one sheet of 3/4 BC plywood. 5mm luan back with the outside painted white, the base (of 2x4 scraps) painted black and the interior left unfinished.

The next project was cases for the guides for my track saw. The 102 inch guide came with a masonite box but I don't love masonite, it is not glued together, just stapled, and if you push the guide in all the way, it is hard to get back out. The 59 inch guide came in a cardboard box with a 1/8 masonite stiffener. The new cases are made of 5mm luan and 1inch by 1/2 thick scrap pieces of hardwood and softwood. It is fastened together with glue and pin nails. I made the cases so 1 inch of the guide sticks out with the end cap removed. The end caps are held on by 1/4 inch x 3/4 inch flathead machine screws that go into 1/4 threaded inserts installed into the solid wood edges of the case. If I made the long one again, I would put the extra length piece of luan at the end opposite the end cap and run the softwood full length except for the end cap. That would better support the guide than what I did which was to put the extra 8-9 inches into the end cap.

The last project is a simple stand for K-cups. The only slightly challenging thing was making angled inserts so the cups come out facing out. HInt - cut at 6 degrees and use 1 1/2 inch scrap.

Jim

[cabinetman]

You've been busy with great looking projects. And, time to cook too. How do you like the track saw?

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[JimD]

I think nearly anybody who works with sheet goods needs a track saw. I was a bit skeptical about accuracy but not after I've used it. The only issue with accuracy is marking. The saw cuts where you put the guide. It is also smooth and the dust collection works well. I thought my old way of rough cutting with my Milwaukee circular saw and home made guide followed by final sizing on the table saw was better. I no longer think so. It is easier to make repetitive cuts on the table saw, of course, but the accuracy of the track saw is plenty good enough for things I make of plywood.

I'm now seriously considering removing the extension tables from my BT3100. I can't imagine makeing a wide rip anymore with the table saw.

Jim

[cabinetman]

I think nearly anybody who works with sheet goods needs a track saw. I was a bit skeptical about accuracy but not after I've used it. The only issue with accuracy is marking. The saw cuts where you put the guide. It is also smooth and the dust collection works well. I thought my old way of rough cutting with my Milwaukee circular saw and home made guide followed by final sizing on the table saw was better. I no longer think so. It is easier to make repetitive cuts on the table saw, of course, but the accuracy of the track saw is plenty good enough for things I make of plywood.

I'm now seriously considering removing the extension tables from my BT3100. I can't imagine makeing a wide rip anymore with the table saw.

Jim

You might be right about needing an alternative to a table saw. The reviews I've read give it high marks. I use a shop made jig made like a "T" square for use on the job if I don't want to cart out a jobsite table saw.

But even with that, there has to be a set up area and a place for the parts to land. Getting comfortable with a table saw that has enough table, is part of the trick of cutting sheet goods. It's definitely convenient, and after some experience it's how a sheet is handled.

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[JimD]

C'man,

I am carrying forward something I did with my old home-made guide that is also key. I made up a lattice of 1x4s on edge with glue, no fasteners, several years ago to support the sheet goods while they are being cut. It is about 6 feet by 3 feet. I throw it across the trailer I carry the wood home, usually, to cut things up. The materials being cut go on top and it doesn't hurt the blade to cut into the lattice since it's all softwood and a little glue. If I cut sheet goods in the shop I put the same lattice over the table saw and extension table.

My table saw has infeed and outfeed support but I don't have a lot of room to the left of the blade. That impacts some cuts. But even with plenty of support, you have to keep the sheet firm against the rip fence. With the track saw, it is fully guided so it does not wander at all and requires very little concentration to use. It has a 48 tooth carbide blade (6.5 inch) so the cut is smooth.

The doors on the cabinet are inset and required trimming. I used a block plane some but also used the track saw. It was easy to remove 1/16 or less with the saw. The wood I used has knots so the plane doesn't work as well as it would in clear wood.

I got the DeWalt clamps for the track and that was a good idea. I tried a couple cuts without them and they were not as accurate. Sometimes the wood has to be repositioned to be able to use the clamps but I will do that in the future. They are quick release clamps so the only issue is just having room for them below the work.

Jim

[cabinetman]

I got the DeWalt clamps for the track and that was a good idea. I tried a couple cuts without them and they were not as accurate. Sometimes the wood has to be repositioned to be able to use the clamps but I will do that in the future. They are quick release clamps so the only issue is just having room for them below the work.

Jim

Have you thought about using a sheet of 1/8" tempered Masonite under the track but a bit wider than the track, so you could clamp that to the stock. You just need to clear the track. You could use more compact clamps, like spring clamps or small "C" clamps.

The Masonite could be velcro, or double sided tape attached.

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[JimD]

I'm having trouble picturing the benefit of the masonite. The guides have a non-slip surface on the bottom that might not slip as readily if they were on masonite (and clean) as they did for me on plywood. So perhaps that is the benefit. The rails are also not perfectly flat, however.

My issue is just that the clamps slide into the underside of the rail and project 6 inches or so beneith the rail. I am attaching a picture. I don't have an issue if I'm cutting a full sheet. It over hangs the lattice and I have easy ability to use the clamps. But if I am cutting a smaller piece and want to support it on the lattice, I have to be careful to do so where there is space at the edge for the clamp. That isn't a huge issue but is a little harder when the lattice is on top of the table saw and extension table. It is still possible, I just have to mess with where the edges are sometimes. The openings in the lattice are big enough for the clamp to go through but I have to slide it along the rails first sometimes.

Jim

[cabinetman]

I'm having trouble picturing the benefit of the masonite.
Jim

I may have a misconception about the properties of the saw and the rail. It appears that the edge opposite the cutting edge is very close to the saw when the saw passes on the rail. With the Masonite being positioned further out from that edge, a clamp can be positioned anywhere along the Masonite, and be clear of the saw base.

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[JimD]

C'man,

The base of the saw has a square sided groove in it to fit over a projection that is roughly 3/4 inch wide, 3/8 tall, and runs the length of the rail. There are zero clearance pieces on two places on the saw so you can adjust an eccentric plastic piece to just clear the rail and then tighten an allen screw to keep it in that position. So there is essentially no side to side movement of the saw on the rail. The rail is a little larger in width than the saw. It is about 8.5 inches wide. When the saw is on the rail, the wide side of the saw base is fully supported. The last 3/8 of an inch of the rail is a replaceable piece of soft plastic. When you make the first cut on the rail, this plastic is cut exactly where the saw will cut in subsequent use. For the long guide, I ripped the factory edge off the 3/4 plywood making this cut. To position the rail for the next cut, you just mark the two ends and put the rail edge on the marks and then clamp it. This ability to position the rail exactly where the saw will cut makes ripping things to final size much quicker than my old way. I checked each piece as I cut up the cabinet pieces and the edge was not moved by subsequent cuts. My home made guides would change so I wanted to see if this one would. So far they have not. The motor is a soft start and the bearings may be better on the arbor. For whatever reason, there is no evidence of the blade vibrating or otherwise changing position enough to impact the rail edge.

The DeWalt guides have two soft edges and can be used in either direction. So far I have only used one edge of each rail, however. The saw base does not completely cover the rail which means there is a couple inches of rail exposed that could be clamped with a conventional clamp, like a spring clamp, but I haven't done this. I like the quick action DeWalt clamps. They are totally out of the way once they are set.

The saw is a plunge cut design. So when you set it down you set it flat on the base. There is a depth control that is easy to adjust and calibrated in inches of workpiece with an allowance for the guide built in. So if you want to cut 3/4 plywood, you set the depth to about 7/8 inch and rip away. The depth adjustment is much easier to use than the one on my Milwaukee.

It is like the other "nicer" tools I have purchased. The design is pretty well throught through and much nicer to use. The saw is also made with plastic inserts on the blade guard so you can lay the saw on the floor to cut off the bottom of a door. It isn't heavy but feels built to last. I hope that is the case since I plan on using it for a long time.

Jim