Hinge issues for inset w/face frames (cannot open fully)

[ivwshane]

Yeah but then the cabinet would look amaturish and I'm already an amature, I don't need my first cabinet saying it too

I think a bevel or round over will look less obvious.

[cabinetman]

Yeah but then the cabinet would look amaturish and I'm already an amature, I don't need my first cabinet saying it too

I think a bevel or round over will look less obvious.

If the hinge is installed properly, and adjusted, you shouldn't have to do bevels or round overs.

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[cabinetman]

If you started off with a ½" spacing (the edge of the cup hole to the edge of the door), and brought it closer...3/16", that would move the door ¼" away from the face frame, and the hinge arm would wrap on the edge of the door. If you moved it even closer, it would give even more.

This diagram might be of some help...

http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges...-+Blum+Hinges/

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[JimD]

I've tried several brands of european hinges but I think I may stick with blum in the future. They have a wide range. I usually order from this place:

http://www.wwhardware.com/blumotion-...nges-b971a970/

Soft closing for blum is about a $3 add on piece for any of their hinges.

The printed catalog for this place has all the formulas you need to set the cup drilling distance to get the right position of the door.

[jAngiel]

I believe the installation instructions for those hinges that the OP has are available on Rocklers website.

[ivwshane]

I've got another question and hopefully this isn't a newb question

What are these and how am I supposed to attach the cup to the door with them on? I can take them off, can I just use regular screws for them?

[cabinetman]

I've got another question and hopefully this isn't a newb question

What are these and how am I supposed to attach the cup to the door with them on? I can take them off, can I just use regular screws for them?

Those little doo dads are dowels that are set up for inserting the hinge to the door after the door has been drilled by a mini press that has dual spur bits and a 35mm cup bore bit. They eliminate having to measure for cup placement and squaring the hinge to the door. The hinge can be pressed in (if you have the press) or just hammered in.

You can unscrew them and take them off, and just drill a cup hole and screw the hinge to the door.

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[ivwshane]

Those little doo dads are dowels that are set up for inserting the hinge to the door after the door has been drilled by a mini press that has dual spur bits and a 35mm cup bore bit. They eliminate having to measure for cup placement and squaring the hinge to the door. The hinge can be pressed in (if you have the press) or just hammered in.

You can unscrew them and take them off, and just drill a cup hole and screw the hinge to the door.

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Thanks, is there a recommended type/size screw for this application.


I really thought this project was going to be easier

[cabinetman]

Thanks, is there a recommended type/size screw for this application.


I really thought this project was going to be easier

Yep...I use a #6 x ⅝" coarse thread flat head phillips (nickel plated).

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[ivwshane]

Yep...I use a #6 x ⅝" coarse thread flat head phillips (nickel plated).

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Once again, thanks and you are awesome

[ivwshane]

Guess what I've got? Another question!

So I'll be painting soon and I need some advice on how to paint the shaker style panel doors.

Looking at similar stuff at the big box stores it looks like the middle panel is painted separately. Is that how you do it or do you completely assemble the door and paint it?

I'll be spraying.

[cabinetman]

Guess what I've got? Another question!

So I'll be painting soon and I need some advice on how to paint the shaker style panel doors.

Looking at similar stuff at the big box stores it looks like the middle panel is painted separately. Is that how you do it or do you completely assemble the door and paint it?

I'll be spraying.

I've done it both ways for raised panels in a R&S door. Finishing the panel first or finishing with the door together. I prefer to do the finishing with the panel in the door, and do it all at once. When I have the door assembled, I use a pin nail at the top and bottom center of the panel (in the rear) to hold the panel in place.

EDIT: You could also use space balls in the groove to keep the panel from moving or making noise.

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[Stytooner]

We have always done like Cman mentions. Two pins from behind to hold the panel in place. We did this regardless of the type of panel or finish. Our raised panels really didn't need pinning, but it is the extra step that makes for a long lasting trouble free door.

PS. We didn't pin our glass panel doors of course.
We simply used two fine beads of silicone. One to hold and center the glass in the frame. The second was a finish bead on the back side to secure it all in place.

[All Thumbs]

The reason panels are often prefinished is to prevent unsightly lines when wood shrinks. Certainly more important with solid panels than plywood. But the rails and stiles can move a bit with the seasons and still exposed unfinished edges around the panel.

[Stytooner]

I have never seen one move enough to show anything if they were built right.
If the lumber has much moisture content when finishing, I can see how that might happen. It would be most noticeable on the sides.
Still, pinning the center of the panel insures that the movement is symmetrical to both sides in theory.
An unpinned door could be stuck on one side and shrink drastically enough on the other to reveal non finished portions.

We always sprayed whatever finish we were using.
That saturates the cracks pretty well, where a brush with thicker finish might not penetrate as deeply.