Hinge issues for inset w/face frames (cannot open fully)

[ivwshane]

The hinge I am using causes the door stile to hit the hinge armature which doesn't all the door to open all the way. I put a bevel on the hinge side but it would require a minimum of a 10 degree bevel if I want to maintain my 3/32 gap.
Is there a better solution? Am I doing something wrong (I've never mounted any cabinet doors before).

Should I route some sort of profile on the edge or is a bevel common?

This picture shows what it looks like with a bevel of 10 degrees.

[cabinetman]

It looks like the cup hole is drilled too far from the edge of the door. What is the distance you have now? It should be about 3/16" or less.

.

[ivwshane]

It looks like the cup hole is drilled too far from the edge of the door. What is the distance you have now? It should be about 3/16" or less.

.

It's about 1/2". If I did 3/16 I'd have a huge gap when the door is closed between the face frame and door.

I tried finding installation instructions for these salice hinges but their site is horrible.

[Dal300]

move the cup back a tad bit. You can get your alignment from the adjustment screws.

[ivwshane]

When you say move the cup back do you mean towards the face frame as cabinetman suggested?

[cabinetman]

When you say move the cup back do you mean towards the face frame as cabinetman suggested?

Yes, that's what I suggested. Actually you are moving the cup hole closer to the edge of the door. Once the door is installed you can adjust the gap at the hinge.

.

[Dal300]

Exactly!!!!!! (Had to add more characters to make the post).

Yes, that's what I suggested. Actually you are moving the cup hole closer to the edge of the door. Once the door is installed you can adjust the gap at the hinge.

.

[ivwshane]

Ok, I tested it out. If I move the cup 3/16 from the edge the gap is too wide to overcome with the adjustment screw. So I pushed it out a little and the gap is right but the adjustment screw is maxed and the stiles till hits the armature so I may have to give it a bevel.

[Dal300]

What kind of hinges are those? Please include the model number.

I use Blum, Grass and a couple of other brands, depending on availability and how lazy I am.

A couple of those brands are thickness/depth specific. Maybe the ones you have are for a thinner unit.

[ivwshane]

These are the hinges I got (I wanted soft closing ones).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001N3...ls_o02_s00_i01

I could not find the model number.

[cabinetman]

Ok, I tested it out. If I move the cup 3/16 from the edge the gap is too wide to overcome with the adjustment screw. So I pushed it out a little and the gap is right but the adjustment screw is maxed and the stiles till hits the armature so I may have to give it a bevel.

Moving the cup hole further from the edge closes the adjustable gap amount. Moving the cup hole closer to the edge increases the gap availability. Here is an easy way to measure:

Measure from the edge of the door 7/8" from the edge, and make a mark. That mark is the center drilling hole for a 35mm Forstner bit. The adjustment on the hinge may be all the way in, and giving you a minimum gap. You should have two adjustment screws on the arm. One adjusts the hinge in and out (moves the door towards the inside or the outside of the cabinet).

The other moves the door left or right (closer to the face frame, or further away from the FF).

The up and down adjustment is likely on the mounting plate.


.

[cork58]

Sounds like the hinge could be the wrong application for what you are trying to do. Maybe a better suited hinge? See if Cab Man can offer some advice, after all he has been around for a long time!

[DannyT]

if that is the stile that the hinge is hitting it looks like the cup is on the stile and not in the door.

[ivwshane]

if that is the stile that the hinge is hitting it looks like the cup is on the stile and not in the door.

They are both test pieces but the cup is on a similar size door stile.

[cabinetman]

Sounds like the hinge could be the wrong application for what you are trying to do. Maybe a better suited hinge? See if Cab Man can offer some advice, after all he has been around for a long time!

For an inset door with a face frame, the choices in hinges aren't great. An option would be to make a build out block that would apply to the side of the cabinet thick enough to be flush with the edge of the face frame, to install the mounting plate.

Doing that, you could use an ordinary euro hinge configured for an inset door for a frameless cabinet. That could be a hinge for inset, and plate assembly, or an overlay hinge with a 18mm mounting plate. Those hinge/plate combos would likely be less expensive.


.