Danish oil on Mahogany?

[greenacres2]

LOML has asked for 3 desktop "homework boxes" for 1st graders to turn in their class work--gifts for her teachers. Last day of school is Wednesday, and we've got a full weekend so there's not a lot of time to do multiple coats of a poly finish.

I was going to use 1/2" poplar for the boxes, but...was able to pick up 1 x 4 mahogany for a little less money and the boards were very nicely figured. Got a pair of 8' boards, so there was enough to build 4 (bonus box for the principal??), i've only got one more to glue up--and then spend the morning sanding.

For simple finish--We both really like the way Danish Oil rub looks on hickory and oak--will an oil work all right on the mahogany? The desired outcome is functional boxes, not a custom guitar lacquer. Thanks!!

earl

[cabinetman]

The "Danish Oil Finishes" are basically a mix of an oil base varnish resin, BLO, and mineral spirits. It can be a stand alone finish, used as a wipe on. It works just fine with Mahogany. You can make your own by adjusting the ratios with more than one third varnish, for a harder finish. You can mix more than a third of mineral spirits for an easier wipe on media.

If you purchase one of the finishes, ready to apply, they work fine the way they are. Allow each application to dry, and lightly sand each application with 320x (open coat sandpaper works best). Don't lay it on heavy...thin applications works best. Use a smooth lint free "T" shirt type material folded into a neat square pad.

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[greenacres2]

Thanks Cab...i did put a thin coat on a scrap this afternoon, made the grain shimmer.
earl

[Stytooner]

That finish on that wood is an excellent choice. I did some chess boards the same way and the grain just popped and gave lots of depth.

[Two Much]

Cabinetman, I do most of the finishing around here, I use
1 part gloss varnish, 1 part BLO, and one part Terp.
I also apply thin coats with a soft rag (under shirt)
lightly sand between coats with 0000 steel wool, or fine
wet sandpaper.

I find that it takes a good 24 hrs to dry between coats,
and because it is thin coats, I usually give it 4 to 5
coats, depending on the usage of the piece of course.

What is the difference between terp and mineral spirits?

I'm asuming it takes 24 hrs to dry because of the BLO?

Also, I've been using gloss varnish cause it's clear as
apposed to semi-gloss...I get the desired soft luster
after the final finish -- by taking it down with the
steel wool oe fine sandpaper, I think my finishes look good,
but any advise to help improve them to look
more professional is appreciated.

We just made two projects, a small built in bookcase
with painted doors and a stained poplar top, I hate
staining poplar, but didn't want it to be oak, as it was
going next to a cherry table and I tried to match the cherry
with the stain.

We also at the same time made a wall shelf --with
mahagony and red oak, all of it re-claimed wood.

Everything took 24 hours to dry?

[cabinetman]

What is the difference between terp and mineral spirits?

Turpentine is distilled from the sap from (generally) pine trees. Mineral spirits is a highly refined solvent, more pure than paint thinner. Turpentine may not be safe for some to use, as it can be toxic.

.

[greenacres2]

We like what we see so far. Green or dark brown felt will line the bottoms. Using Watco Danish Oil, natural color. This is the second coat going on. Sanded with 60, 80, 100, 150, 220 grit--and then 1500 grit between coats. First time trying this kind of thing--made a lot of sawdust, but no scrap!!

earl

[cabinetman]

Sanded with 60, 80, 100, 150, 220 grit--and then 1500 grit between coats.

earl

Using 60x or 80x is pretty coarse. What is your wood preparation? What are you starting with...planed lumber? What method are you using 60x and 80x?


.

[greenacres2]

I started with pins that were about 1/16 too short--wasn't sure if running the tail boards through the planer might result in some tear out, so i ground away at it.

Can't blame the PC jig--it followed the set-up i gave it. Since i built 4 boxes and only needed 3, in retrospect i should have taken one set of wood and (A) tried to deepen the pins or (B) made a few passes with the planer. It's a steep learning C-man!! The more i do, the more amazed i get at some of the work i see from others!!

earl