Projects in progress...

[dbhost]

I haven't been online posting as much as usual lately as I have actually gotten the not only green light to, but the you WILL get these projects done commandment from LOML, so I have been busy getting projects going, and close at least to done...

#1. The ever lasting water heater stand project is finally in drywall, textured and I am starting on the trim. Please ignore the floor. I forgot to mask it before I sprayed the texturizer on the wall, I now need to shave the floor... What you don't see pictured is the replaced sheetrock behind the washer / dryer and the trim work that is going on there. I have one last small section to do rock wise, and trim to finish up and this room will be ready for paint, but LOML needed to wash some clothes so back in went the washer / dryer...





#2. Remodeling of the main bathroom. I have replaced the sheetrock where patches have given out (I shoved my foot through the ceiling years ago when I misstepped in the attic) and replaced the plain trim rings with some nice fancy ones we got at Home Depot.



#3. While I was at the fancy trim rings thing, in went a pair in the master bath...



What isn't pictured are the other tasks... Running to Clarks for some Pecan, moving everything off of the top of the fridge, freezer, and the top of the kitchen cabinets in order to free up the space, toting it up and hauling the goodies upstairs.

Tomorrow night will bring laundry for LOML, and milling that previously mentioned pecan. I am not entirely certain how I am going to do this though. I have a bench top jointer, and a 9' rough board I want to keep in 1 piece that needs to be S4S and thicknessed to 1/2" ASAP for a LONG threshold. Long story that will have photos posted when I am done... I either had a stroke of genius or just a stroke, not sure yet...

[chopnhack]

Db, did you ever think of putting a drain pain under that heater? Might not stop a full out leak unless you plumb a drain to it, but it sometimes helps catch the slow leaks. As for the pecan, that should make an interesting threshold, can't wait to see it! As for the jointing, long infeed and out feed support and possible a roller clamped just over the start of the outfeed? It might help you get consistent pressure pass to pass. Do you not have a planer? GL

[dbhost]

I do have a drain pan for it, but it would plumb to nowhere. Might not be a bad idea to put it in and plug the hole though. I got the pan after I got the heater because of that very thought... At least it would catch a slow leak and give me a chance to react... The original didn't have one either...

How would I drain the heater in order to place the pan under it?

For what it's worth. I would LOVE to replace the whole shebang with a tankless heater and an open space on the floor...

[pelligrini]

I have a bench top jointer, and a 9' rough board I want to keep in 1 piece that needs to be S4S and thicknessed to 1/2" ASAP for a LONG threshold.

You need a jointer plane. You could probably do it with the jack planes you have, but you'll need to check for flatness a lot more often. Joint a face and an edge and use your thickness planer to square it up. Might knock off the high spots on the other sides before running it through.

[dbhost]

You need a jointer plane. You could probably do it with the jack planes you have, but you'll need to check for flatness a lot more often. Joint a face and an edge and use your thickness planer to square it up. Might knock off the high spots on the other sides before running it through.

Actually, I do have a Jointer Plane. Got it for Christmas... Spent a little bit of time tuning it and mostly cleaning cosmoline off of it... How on earth do you secure a 9' long board to go after it with a hand plane though? I almost need to build a HUGE torsion box bench to handle this...

[cabinetman]

For what it's worth. I would LOVE to replace the whole shebang with a tankless heater and an open space on the floor...

See what happens when you're handy...there's a never ending list of to do things. I'm with you on the tankless heater. That would definitely free up space. When our present 50 gal gas heater dies, we'll put one in. I just have my dithers about runnin' out of hot water when there are a few showers lined up.

.

[pelligrini]

I jointed a couple 10' long boards over the weekend. I did 2/3 of the board face then slid it down to do the rest of it. A planing stop on one end and a couple dogs on the far side was plenty secure for me. Had to put a few shims under one board to deal with twist. Doing the edge on my 7' bench was easier as I have a face vice on the left and a leg vice on the right. Sure is a nice feeling to get a 10' long curl.

[Dal300]

I had to joint and flatten a 10' piece of oak in the only machine I had... a PC305TP, not known for the ability to do a good job without snipe on each end.

I made a pair of outriggers out of 1 1/4" "L" iron, not angle iron and spray glued some paper to the bottoms of the L then double stick taped it on each side of the flat of the wood making sure I had a consistent height all the way along the board. Ran it through the planer to give me a square, flat, finished edge.
Turned the board over and re-attached the "L" iron to the bottom with the board touching the bed of the planer this time. That made two edges flat, square and finished.
The two flat edges were then taped to the edges of the wood and I made sure the wood was a consistent height along the rails, not touching the bed and ran it through again.... third side flat, square and concentric to the edges.
Removed the rails and ran it through on the last side and had a piece of Oak 5 1/2" wide by 1" thick, flat, square and finished on all four sides.
Your mileage may vary, but it worked for me!

[dbhost]

I jointed a couple 10' long boards over the weekend. I did 2/3 of the board face then slid it down to do the rest of it. A planing stop on one end and a couple dogs on the far side was plenty secure for me. Had to put a few shims under one board to deal with twist. Doing the edge on my 7' bench was easier as I have a face vice on the left and a leg vice on the right. Sure is a nice feeling to get a 10' long curl.

That's probably what I am going to have to do, or figure out some what to rig up a 9+ foot long sled for the planer...

[pelligrini]

You did mention ASAP for the threshold. It would probably take me a lot longer to properly set up a sled for a planer or support for a benchtop jointer than to knock it out by hand.

I'm getting a lot better and faster with my planes with practice too. I can joint a board quicker with my hand planes than I can with my jointer (includes: wheeling it out of the corner, hooking it to power, hooking up dust collection, putting on ear and eye protection, etc.) The condition of the board after hand planing is a lot better too.

[dbhost]

I am okay with the hand planes, it's just that a piece this big is... well, intimidating is all...

[chopnhack]

Turn off the breaker or gas to the heater and connect a hose to the lower spigot. Make sure again that the breaker is off or the gas is off. Hopefully you have some flex lines plumbed in, if not you will have to remove the inlet and outlet connections. Open the spigot and let it drain into your sink, most of the water should come out, but you may still need some help to pick up the tank as there still may be some water left.

[T...K21]

On demand water heaters are great. I had a couple installed in our new home. Just make sure the wire from the power box to your house is large enough to handle it.

Definitely get a pan under the water heater and attempt to plumb the relief valve out of the house. The plumber on our last house didn't plumb the relief valve out of the house… long story short…I ended up replacing the floor joists, subflooring, and wood floors.

[dbhost]

Turn off the breaker or gas to the heater and connect a hose to the lower spigot. Make sure again that the breaker is off or the gas is off. Hopefully you have some flex lines plumbed in, if not you will have to remove the inlet and outlet connections. Open the spigot and let it drain into your sink, most of the water should come out, but you may still need some help to pick up the tank as there still may be some water left.

Sink? Oh yeah, that's in the kitchen...

It blew me away when I was looking to buy a home here. NONE of the houses I looked at had utility sinks... No drain in the laundry room floor, nor in the garage... I guess it varies by region... When I lived in Oregon all the houses had utility sinks, heck even most apartments did...

[dbhost]

On demand water heaters are great. I had a couple installed in our new home. Just make sure the wire from the power box to your house is large enough to handle it.

Definitely get a pan under the water heater and attempt to plumb the relief valve out of the house. The plumber on our last house didn't plumb the relief valve out of the house… long story short…I ended up replacing the floor joists, subflooring, and wood floors.

The pressure relief is plumbed. The drain valve, a different beast all together, isn't. The relief valve is actually plumbed to the drain that the washing machine drains through...

No worries about water damage to floor joists. I don't have them. I am on concrete slab on grade construction... What I am worried about is wall footers and sheet rock...