Machining raw lumber

[TB Roye]

I have about 40BdFt on Alder that I am going to make faceframes and doors out of, for some cabinets for the sunroom. It is about 4/4 and I need to get it down to 3/4" or so. Which do I do first joint a face or an edge? All my books are in storage so I have no reference material here, and can't remember from the last time I did it. I have a Jointer and Planer so I have the tools.

Tom

[woodinville guy]

I have about 40BdFt on Alder that I am going to make faceframes and doors out of, for some cabinets for the sunroom. It is about 4/4 and I need to get it down to 3/4" or so. Which do I do first joint a face or an edge? All my books are in storage so I have no reference material here, and can't remember from the last time I did it. I have a Jointer and Planer so I have the tools.

Tom

use a jointer on the face first, then thickness plane to the desired thickness. Next joint the edge and rip the final edge on the table saw.

[TB Roye]

Dave

Thank you very much. Just couldn't remember and haven't done a project in few years but now is time for remodeling.

Tom

[LCHIEN]

I usually
1 joint the wide face first, then
2 Edge joint an adjacent edge, Then
3 thickness plane, then
4 rip to final width.

I do 2 before 3 primarily so I can finish with one machine before using the next, rather than going back and forth. I can't think of a reason not to do this order as opposed to 1,3, 2, 4 as Dave suggested. But I won't say that Dave's order won't do the job.

[JimD]

Depending some on your project needs you might want to cut to approximate length before using the jointer and planner. If you need lots of shorter length boards and your rough cut is not straight, cutting to approximate length (I leave at least an inch extra) could save some wood. It is also easier to handle.

Jim

[cabinetman]

You could do the face and one edge jointing first and then plane and then rip. An advantage of face jointing and then edge jointing, is the second face may not be needed (yet) and left full. This may be worthwhile if there is more than sufficient supply.

I agree with Jim about sizing, with a caveat. If I did size, I would leave them bit longer to account for end problems like snipe.

.

[LCHIEN]

JimD makes a good point about pre-cutting to length (or maybe just a bit over) - bowed, and warped boards you only have to take off half as much for half a board to make it straight. May also make it easier to handle for long boards.

[TB Roye]

Thanks guys. It should be rough lumber not raw, been a long time between woodworking projects. I will probably do face, edge, plane, rip. My supplier lumber is Kiln dried, and is close to the proper size on some pieces. They don't sell dimensional lumber at all strictly rough lumber and good, but pricey plywood. Some of my pieces are 7/16" up to 4/4 so I will have to be carefully with the jointing and planing. I probably should have measured the thickness better when I picked through the stack. Tuesday when I start I will go through and measure each piece for thickness and then decide how thick the faceframes, doors and drawer fronts will be.

[woodinville guy]

For your thickness, make sure to thickness plane all the material at the same time so the thickness matches. It really doesn't matter if it ends up slightly thicker than 3/4 or less as long as the material is the same thickness.

Best of luck!