How do I make this cut(s)?

[radhak]

I don't have a planer or a jointer.

I am building a table which has a number of slats on both sides. I have cut the slats (1" wide each) by re-sawing 1" thick wood, so the thickness of each slat is approx 3/8 to 1/2" (my re-sawing was far from exact). I really don't care about how it looks (and the variation is not really visible to the eye), but since I am thinking stub M&T to fit them to the apron/stretchers, I will need accuracy when cutting the tenons on them. Basically I have to worry about the wood left behind (1/4")and not how much is removed in the cut. So what is the best way of achieving this?

I am thinking tenon dimensions 3/4" wide, 1/4" thick, and 1/2" tall.

I thought this
a. First tenon cheek - trim one side of slat (removing maybe 1/16"). Maybe use the router-table for this?
b. the opposite cheek - use the TS? which would mean trap the slat between the blade and a sacrificial fence exactly 1/4" away? I guess I will have to think up a jig to hold the slat firmly and not allow binding. Again, the variation in the slat thickness makes that jig dicey.

Any other ideas or suggestions?

[Old Dutchman]

You may need to measure the wood thickness, and divide by threebut cut inside each line. The slats will be thinner! Make the mortice thinner also. Nice design!

[LCHIEN]

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ue_groove.html

get the 7844 or 5544 bit from MLCS. Make or buy a coping sled to cut precise 1/4" x 3/8" deep tenons full length on the slats. Either Groove a 1/4" side by >3/8" deep slot in the rail or make 1/4" x 1" mortises in the rail.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Rad - is it safe to assume that at least one side of each slat appears to be planed smooth?

If so, you might try a regular tenoning jig, but remove only one cheek from the cut side, leaving the planed side to face the visual side of your project. If you set the jig to leave 3/8in (assuming this is your true minimum slat thickness), any thicker slats should have the overhang from the cheek side face the less-visible inside of the piece. This way you can consistently mortise at 3/8in and on the visible face all the slats will appear to be placed flush.

[cabinetman]

If I understand your question, set up a temporary spacer against the fence of your table saw for the distance of the cheek (left side of the blade), and you can just use your miter gauge to push it through. Any of the cheeks can be done like this. The spacer stops short of the blade, so the stock isn't trapped by the fence or the spacer.

You could clean out the balance of the tenon by multiple passes flat to the table. Or, make a temporary jig to stand up the stock to pass through the blade for the 1/2". Or set up a straight faced mortising bit in the router table, and using a miter gauge make a pass to clean off the stock to the cheek.

.

[radhak]

Thanks Dutchman, I am still figuring out how to hide all the cables and all at the back, but the idea is not allow this to look too bulky. Fingers crossed!

Loring, that is a great bit! That might do the task for me. I'll have to figure out the coping sled now.

Yes Bill, one side of each slat is more-or-less planed, and I'll try out cutting the tenon from just one side on some scrap to see how it looks. Might save me quite some labor.

CM, I'm leaning toward a jig to pass the slat standing up; it's just that there will around 24 of them, and possibly double that if I decide to put slats in the back to box in the cables, power-strip, etc.

[LCHIEN]

universal store-bought coping sleds are nice. But you can make a special purpose DIY one very easily.

Here's a sketch of one you can make in about 20 minutes.
You'll need a couple of lever hold down clamps like these:


In use align the workpiece end even with the edge of the jig. Easy way to do this is to place the jig edge against the fence and clamp the workpiece into place flush to the fence. place the jig against the router fence with the spinning bit in the opening. feed to the left holding the handle and the front of the jig to keep the jig to the fence. Let the bit cut into the backing piece to prevent tearout. You may want to make more than one pass taking shallower cuts! e.g. the jig not flush to the fence for the first few passes.
The bit should be adjusted so that the cut depth is as you want it. The bit i recommended had a bearing stop at 3/8", you can set this so the bearing is even with the router fence (use a straightedge) to make a precise 3/8" tenon.

[radhak]

Excellent description and diagram, Loring!

I believe I have one or two of those clamps in my 'shop. Should be interesting.

Thanks for taking the trouble and time!