Router table plate placement?

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  • RJD2
    Forum Newbie
    • Feb 2006
    • 57

    #1

    Router table plate placement?

    I built a router table, and the top measures 24" x 32" with no miter slot. The router plate is 9-1/4" x 11-3/4". What is a good placement for the router plate? I would assume centered on the top lengthwise, but should it be offset to the front instead of centered for the width? Thanks.

    Ron
  • sweensdv
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2002
    • 2872
    • WI
    • Baileigh TS-1040P-50

    #2
    Do a Google Image search for router tables. Pick the design that you like the best. There is no real set rule about where to place the plate but common sense should definitely come into play.
    _________________________
    "Have a Great Day, unless you've made other plans"

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    • Black wallnut
      cycling to health
      • Jan 2003
      • 4715
      • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
      • BT3k 1999

      #3
      Placement is a matter of personal choice and should reflect your style, technique and choice of projects. Are you edge beading lots of long boards? Will you work front to back like a table saw or right to left? Both are things you should think about before deciding as you'll only get one chance with your top of placing your router.
      Donate to my Tour de Cure


      marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

      Head servant of the forum

      ©

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      • leehljp
        The Full Monte
        • Dec 2002
        • 8774
        • Tunica, MS
        • BT3000/3100

        #4
        I made a router table/center for two routers. When I am doing a project that requires two bits or more, I hate having to change bits, especially when there is one that I use regularly. Getting that one bit re-set to the precise height was sometimes difficult, but changing back and forth was the main reason for the two.

        I usually use one router with a bit for shaping and one router for dado, groves, edging etc.

        Very convenient.

        I put the main router (1/2" size) in the center of the 36 by 22 in top, and the smaller 1/4 in router midway between the 1/2 in and the edge.
        Hank Lee

        Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

        Comment

        • pelligrini
          Veteran Member
          • Apr 2007
          • 4217
          • Fort Worth, TX
          • Craftsman 21829

          #5
          Will you be adding a miter slot later? I put a miter and t-track in mine, I wouldn't want to be without them. The slot and t-track makes it easy to attach featherboards, stops, etc.

          I'd center the plate left to right. My original router table insert on my saw had it off center. I didn't like it, especially when using patterns. The distance from the front isn't critical, but there are some considerations to be made. When I get around to making another router table I'll change the placement of my miter slot and plate. It will be a bit further back from the front than I have it now. The miter slot will be far enough from the front to have more support for the miter gauge. My gauge hangs over the front now and can get a little tippy.

          I will also make the distance from my slot to the center of the bit the same as what my saw miter slot is. This is mainly to be able to use the same jigs with less setup issues. I made a nice dovetail miter key jig a while back, but I left off the miter bar because I couldn't use it on both.

          Make sure you have enough room on the back for support/fastening of your router fence too.
          Erik

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          • JR
            The Full Monte
            • Feb 2004
            • 5636
            • Eugene, OR
            • BT3000

            #6
            Originally posted by pelligrini
            The slot and t-track makes it easy to attach featherboards, stops, etc.

            I'd center the plate left to right.
            I'd like to associate myself with the remarks of the gentleman from Foat Wuth (can yo utell I've been watching a lot of CSPAN?)

            JR
            JR

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            • Kristofor
              Veteran Member
              • Jul 2004
              • 1331
              • Twin Cities, MN
              • Jet JTAS10 Cabinet Saw

              #7
              My current configuration is centered in a ~20" deep top. I occasionally (though rarely) wish I had more space in front of the bit (locating the router further back). I don't know that I've ever lamented needing more space in back... So, I guess I'd have it toward the back a bit if I did it again.

              You already have an extra 4" to work with so centered might be just fine for you. Unless you're only going to work with narrow stock or plan to have the table at an oddly tall height I wouldn't bring it forward of the midpoint though.

              Comment

              • vaking
                Veteran Member
                • Apr 2005
                • 1428
                • Montclair, NJ, USA.
                • Ryobi BT3100-1

                #8
                I have BT3100 with extended rails uncut, this gives me rip capacity of 66" to the right of the blade. My main router table is built into that extension wing. The table between rails at BT3100 is 22.5" - this is the size of my router table front to back. I use router table right to left. The bit is offset towards the back. Reason is simple - area behind the bit is wasted as it is covered by router fence. Moving bit forward will effectively give me a smaller table and nothing else. Position of the bit on the left to right scale is unimportant for me. Since table saw and router share one huge table - I have probably 30" to the right of the bit and more than 4' to the left (with saw blade lowered below the table).
                Alex V

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                • LCHIEN
                  Super Moderator
                  • Dec 2002
                  • 22012
                  • Katy, TX, USA.
                  • BT3000 vintage 1999

                  #9
                  my table has the long way running front and back so one day i can attach an incra system.

                  As for how far back to set the router plate, leave room if you want a miter slot.
                  Leave less room if you tend to do small narrow stuff like moldings
                  Leave more room if you tend to edge larger items like fully built doors and placques or if you do inside edging on larger items. THink about how YOU will use YOUR table.
                  Loring in Katy, TX USA
                  If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                  BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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